Morning sickness

Morning sickness

Sunday, December 30, 2012

3 things from internet : Greg Long -Jeremy Flores

If you follow the story.People was saying Garret drop him and almost kill him, this is bullshit..Greg letter to garret :
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/letter-of-the-week/a-message-from-greg-long_90432/
Long time ago i was spending my winter at HAwaii, htink was the best way a competitor should do.
Best strong waves, big powerful and a crowd of best surfer..
Jeremy knows!!
And he is there charging!

Thursday, December 27, 2012

back in the water. Oia paddle Galicia

After my baby son birth last week , i did not go i the water.
Saw post from everywhere like Cortes bank session, perfect El Quemao,..Cave Portugal and i was
frothing to go surf.
Yesterday had my first day with a window between take care the cesarian birth wife, daughter and overnight no sleep son.
Got my 10´6¨and went to Oia.
That wave is always a good fun over 12 feet.
There is only one spot to take off and if you not on that spot the double up do not let you make the drop.
So, every time you paddle into it you feel that like : do i am on right spot?
this is when you are on right spot.
Photo : Angel fotosplino
The wipeout one on that last video from there :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NH90NR3e0II&list=UUpXXOdMwqsTm2Pbbi8BIyEw&index=1

Monday, December 24, 2012

Greg Long´s wipe out at Cortes Bank



  • STATEMENT FROM GREG LONG REGARDING HIS SERIOUS WIPEOUT WHILE SURFING AT THE CORTES BANK ON 12-21-12

    Thank you to the entire community of friends, family and well-wishers for your concern, your outpouring of love, support and prayers, following the serious wipeout I experienced while surfing at the Cortes Bank on Friday, December 21st.
    I am home, following a 24 hour stay in the UCSD Hospital in San Diego for precautionary observation as a result of the near drowning experience and blunt trauma injuries I suffered from the impact of a sequence of four large waves, and a three wave hold down. I had taken off on the second wave of a four-wave set and was forced to straighten out. After enduring an extremely violent and long hold down, I barely broke the surface and was attempting to grab a breath of air, when I received the full impact of the lip from the third and largest wave of the set. All of my breath was knocked out of me. I nearly lost consciousness at this point and was again driven deep and was subjected to a furious beating. I attempted to swim to the surface as the energy of the wave began to release me, but only made a few strokes before the next wave passed overhead, pushing me back down. As this beating started to subside, I began climbing my leash, hoping to break the surface before passing out. I made it to the tail of my board while it was still submerged in the turbulent and aerated water, at which point I blacked out from CO2 saturation and lack of oxygen.
    Three rescue skis operated by D.K. Walsh, Jon Walla and Frank Quiarte were tracking me following the initial wipeout. After a fourth and smaller white water had passed, I was quickly located, floating face down along side my surfboard by D.K. Walsh. D.K. abandoned his ski, jumping in the water in order to raise my head above the surface. Jon Walla arrived on his ski, and together they pulled me onto the rescue sled. I began regaining consciousness during the ride back to the support boat we were operating from. Several other rescuers assisted getting me onboard at which point I began vomiting the small amount of water I had aspirated and a large amount of blood, which I later learned was from a combination of the blunt force trauma of impact and the rupturing of capillaries due to extreme breath holding. I was stabilized onboard the boat by the lifeguards and paramedics who were part of our safety team, and a Coast Guard helicopter was summoned to transport me back to San Diego.
    Having trained for extreme breath holding, at no point did I allow myself to panic or lose confidence that I was going to survive this incident. I do, however, fully acknowledge that I did exceed my limits of endurance, and that there will always be elements of risk and danger that are beyond my control while surfing waves of any size. Because of those elements of risk, I have always insisted on working with individuals that share my focus on training and preparation. Humbly, I express my deepest gratitude to the team of rescuers and fellow surfers who’s training and precise response contributed to saving my life.

Saturday, December 22, 2012

interview Aladin USA mag









http://issuu.com/aladdinsurfmag/docs/aladdin_issue_007_01n/85

Friday, December 21, 2012

first time Belharra ?When?

Surf Session : Les vagues étaient incontestablement grosses, mais il ne s’agissait pas pour autant d’une des plus grosses sessions là-bas. Une bonne mise en jambe néanmoins ?
Peyo Lizarazu
 : C’est probablement le plus petit Belharra qu’on a eu jusqu’ici, et encore, si on peut considérer cela « petit ». Sans ce coefficient très fort autour de 100, les vagues n’auraient pas cassé, j’en suis persuadé. C’est aussi ce qui a permis de l’attaquer à la rame. Lorsque l’on se retrouvera face à un gros Belharra, ce ne sera plus gérable à la rame. D’ailleurs je tiens à préciser que pour moi, ce furent les vraies premières vagues prises à la rame à Belharra. Lorsqu’Asier Muniain (en février 2011) avait pris des vagues avec son gun, il avait bénéficié de l’aide d’un jet-ski pour le placement et pour s’élancer. Dimanche, c’était différent, les surfers ont tout fait à la rame, du placement au take-off.


This is a piece of Peyo Lizarrazu interview on surfsession.com.
Saying : ¨ last session was the first one as Axi Munien never really paddle into it!Using pwc for placement and step off¨

Pilou du calme tried but could not ,but i am sure he will soon as he love it the paddle thing
(http://www.surfsession.com/2012/12/19/rame-et-sup-a-belharra-loeil-de-peyo/)

Thursday, December 20, 2012

last issue-Revista Baobab spain

Maybe one of the last time i did tow this winter.
A bot over it. all on paddle right now..but still a beautifull shot-http://www.facebook.com/pages/wwwrevistabaobabes/177990783583

http://www.revistabaobab.es


50 000 prints all over Spain.



Thanks Bruno for the shot

Must of the shots came form the same sessions of this video from JAvi Pocholo: 

Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Belharra Paddle from the coast

Cotty, Rebiere, Fletcher

Rebiere, Sanchis


Peyot

Monday, December 17, 2012

Belharra.France. PAddling surf

I did 18 hours driving on 2 and half days.
English Andrew Cotton came for we surf Galicia outer reef and in the last moment my boss from Billabong Adventure Francois Liets called me and said, come, right now to France.
I knew could be good cause my close friend Laurent Pujol who did surf there many times told me Nathan Fletcher and Dane Gudaska(both with a great vibration in the water and pushing the limits, thanks for coming boss.Helping Europeans to step up!), were here already.
Got in France did a little surf at Guetary(got a sick left in the session but the way back was gnarly as the channel is on the right).Night at my close friend Alex LAurel at Anglet and Belharra with Bilabong adventures and Tv Thalassa next day.
The highlights of the session for me was Sancho´s wipeout with Nathan´s take of(and i was eating that set,so my vision was amazing.big geant wave on the front!)
I wa sstoked on my take of as the wind came and was bumping.
Hope come back next time!!!



Thursday, December 13, 2012

La toxica surf at Backdoor shop Porto

La Toxica,

Exposition at 

http://www.facebook.com/backdoor01
Photos by Pedro Ferreira

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Nazare paddle mission one..

I left home early dark time.My plans was get the pwc and go down to NAzare.
I had call my friends, Tom Buttler, Sebastian Struder and HUgo Vau who are living at NAzare jsut for the big conditions.
They all said, waves are small don´t need the pwc.
I went down with my friend and photographer Bruno Novoa seeking the swell but a bit sad cause i did not want to leave my 9,5 month pregnant wife alone.
As i was going down i could stop to check the swell forecast 2,8 2,9 m with 14 sec and 290 293 degrees ..
that is a solid Nazare and was what i found went i got there.
The 6 feet in the morning was 15 now.
Went i arrive up on the fire house i saw a perfect A frame set wedging by the rocks.
Could not believe and straight waxed my board put the wetsuit and try to paddle out..just try cause did even get in the middle way trough the outside.
Went back all piss off of leaving my with and could not surf.
I was going to surf Coxos after call my good friend and Coxos master Miguel Fortes that said was good good down there.
I went to say bye to Tom and Seabass and they said, man, we go with the pwc and we take you to the outside.
I lef teat a soup and when i was back they were already out and Tom was killing it.
Perfect 12/15 wall and he even got a petty nice cover up..
I was watching and waiting on the beach.
Hugo Vau was first take out and seabass came after to pick me up.
i was between the 7,6 and the 10´6¨
i finished with the 10´6¨.
We got out and tide was start to get low and was like Tom perfect 3 waves.
I got 2 nothing that great and Tom split with seabass.
After a couple sets one big set came trough and Tom said to go further out.
He did have not the time to say any other word the biggest set till that pint broke 3 feet i  front of seabass and myself.
I pop up my v1(it is the old oen from last year that the wetsuit is full of rows but the engine still work)
As i looked Tom was picking seabass form the white water.
He got a broken board i was washed in after some waves to the shore.
Went back, change the capsule of the V1 and got my best wave on the second try.
Tide was too low, waves was getting to hollow and with to much sand and they start to tow.
I got 2 and left stoked.
Thanks boys!
that little black thing in the middle low is my head on the second one of the set before washed out..

Always good to eat shit and keep going.Can wait to goback there!!









Monday, December 10, 2012

2012 world tittle race, Justine Dupont


Joel Parkinson is again fighting for his world .
He lost for Micky Fanning last time there at Pipe(contest that i am been watching and enjoy every night when i get home here in my step parents house where we decided to wait for number 2 son).
he had one runner-up finish before (that that every one might don´t remember, cause was a easy world tittle win), when Andy won his second tittle couples years ago. 
Must the peoples that i know wants him a champ.Not only cause he deserver it as he did strt a new style of surf, his own style but cause sometimes we all want a different person winning(Kelly is fighting for it and i don´t know you but i like when there is a fight for the tittle but even there is a fight Kelly had won too many times) 

 As a daddy i love this 2 pics of Shane Dorian and Joel Parkinson with their kids..
Justine Dupont just wrote me saying she is been surfing big waves.She is in Hawaii now and i let her use my 9 and 10 feet surfboards over there.And i will be sure you could see her on a big day there soon.
This is her on a Irish perfect barrel.

Friday, December 7, 2012

Fisrt time paddling Oia outside peak

This is on a 10 feet 13sec days(2 days).
Both days on shore.
I can not wait for a big and clean day.
The wipeout day looks like the one showing the real juice this wave have to give.
I had checked before with my friend Alex Botelho and was perfect off shore.
The shame was  a fast down grading swell so we decided surf around that area another wave.

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Oia.Galicia paddling big surf

2 days surfing the same wave.OIa.
Today i am more stoked than yesterday as i d push a bit more my limits.
It is all about you not the others.
I am 100% sure if there was some others top big wave paddlers today they will get barrels there.
Conditions was a bit hard again as wind was not perfect and i think should bit a bit bigger swell.
Why?
Cause if you do not take off behind the double up the double just spit you lip to bottom.
I know cause i did today that.
Had one sick one on the double up first wave and thought all will be just a matter of go for it but i was wrong.
Went all the way top to bottom and my body hurst now.
The vision was a bit gnarly as i was trying to stand in my board and could not see the bottom anymore.
Next thing i was flying and my 10´6¨was still in my feet.I was so scary to land on that big wood and i had try to move my body a bit on the side.
All came ok, just a bad landing on my ribs, but all good.
Hurts but nothing that in a couples days will be ok.
Yesterday was yellow swell and yellow period on fnmoc and today same going to green.
windguru saying 316 degrees and all west wind going to south..
I really believe will be some nice big paddling barrels in the place on the future!
Thanks to daniel Rodriguez from Ponte vedra who came for today second session and did a nice take off.Maybe he did could pull in, if i was not free falling in his head,hahah
Another thanks to Bruno Novoa and his girlfriend to come shot.