Morning sickness

Morning sickness

Friday, October 5, 2012

Last day "en France"

Was some nice days here in France..
Contest is over, Kelly won again.
I though Jho-jhon won the other final ,but well Dane did the final.
Easy for Kelly.
I had some really nice barrels between semis and final and some other after.
Stoked!
Leaving to home this afternoon or tomorrow to see my family.
Many working days.Happy about that.
Webcasting on french and portuguese..interview for canal+, shots...
No always is happiness.
Laurent Pujol friend, surf and photographer(his shot)
But i think is his fault i didn' t make that one..
He is always saying to don' t grab the rails..so i got hit by the lip..





Wednesday, October 3, 2012

La GRaviere ,Hossegor pumping

II think this days is the biggest LA Graviere can hadle.10 feet with 10 feet sets.
Yesterday night was one one the biggest day i ever seen here.
Got 2 really good ones.
Just i was too short in my board and couldn' t slow down as much as i wanted.
kelly Slater even screamed for the big right i had..Not everyday you see guys like hin stoked in the water for waves and a pumping Graviere can do that.
Jhon-jhon was in the water too as Fred P, Vincent Duvignac, MAxim Hucenot, Wigoly Dantas,...
This is must of this morning shot and looks like is bigger again. so let s go surf another great session!




Crowd stoked with good surfer on good waves;

Ben Sanchis, local boy always gets his bombs;

A nice big left to me, but i didn' t make it;



Jhon-Jhon Florence always showing skill and technique..





Me on a long one..


Monday, October 1, 2012

tow-in board

I'd been working on tow boards with Rob since i get in the Billabong team early 2010..
This is just the third board as to give a real feedback and know if the board works good is hard.
As there is not many real big waves or many session to try it in different terms.
Well, we had start on a 5,8 that works really good for small slabs and beach breaks like Hossegor.
Max size of 10 feet.
So we made another 5,8 but more straight rails, more concave ant way more heavy.
Didn' t work and rob told me the concave when is too big and bump doesn' t handle it.
So this is the third one.
A bit like Garrets boards i saw at Nazaré.Normal pin and single to v botton..heavy.
Let' s try it this winter!