father of 2,
former elite world tour surfer,
2 x european pro champ,
european amateur tour champ,
Ireland big wave champ,
xxl biggest barrel finalist.
4 x spanish champ
5 x Galicia champ
Owner of surf school, Surfcamp, Bar, Hostel, Event organizer, Icon Brazilian jiu-jitsu team
I was at Lanzarote cause must of the time i stay half there half in Galicia during the winter.
Went i saw the forecast i was keen to comeback to try to town-in some of the biggest waves of the winter.
My friend Andrew Cotton change his plans on last second and decided to go up to Ireland( probily best option always as the waves the are the best big waves to surf..big clean and barreling)When i arrived in Santiago Sunday night i was always checking the forecast. My contact at MSW was helping me out with winds as much as François Liets as usual.
Not many otion was coming to my head with such a big swell and wind. My students got the road to Lugo as waves are always more protected from wind but smaller. I decided to stay at A Coruña. I had one option to surf in the middle of A Coruña bay or this wave here that i had try last year with my friends from Ledicia filming company.
Back than i knew could be better bigger cause the wave breaks close to the rocks and bigger ¨safer¨could be.
I paddle out right went the biggest of the swell was fill in. I already new was way bigger cause the paddle out was way more waves and withe water than the first time.Waves were breaking more far from the rocks and with a such big swell i knew i could get with lucky one really big one.
straight away i got this wave here and felt really confortable on my 10´6¨Rob Vaughan ( we have been making boards for many years now and his big one has a different rails than other shaper and i am more and more confortable o it)
Right after the first wave many cars of police and firemens as much of local civil protection service start to arrive.
I was at the line up checking the sets, positioning myself and checking them.
I know how much work they have on this days. And have many friends who work on it. And is Carnaval. Wasn´t keen to give any problem.
" cars left and i thought they will let me stay and i could concentrate myself for next set.
Right before a big set fill in the firemans make me signs to leave.
I screw that big set, as i wasn´t at the right place.
With a such long perieod swell , sets takes long time to come and i wasn´t really calm to wait and give trouble to anyone.
So i smooth paddle back to the small beachlauching spot.
Cops and firemens was waiting for me.
They told about the risk. they ask me if i will be back, i said yes and they told me to call before i surf next time.
I ask with i could go back to water but no.
Spot is there and will be many more paddling session there.
One option on giant swells and no need of PWC.
Thanks Eva Díez and TNK vision for be there shooting.