Morning sickness

Morning sickness

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Jay Moriarty

Long time ago at Lojifuji, one of many resort at MAldives just before lunch time i decide to  walk around to make time and go lunch straight.
The resort is in  small island where a perfect left is and tell what, nothing to do as surf or dive.
I always love to dive as my parents lived in a beach front long time ago and my sister and me used to dive since we young.
I walk to the harbor  to to a little check there as is the closest place to see something nice by the restaurant.
In my way to the end of the harbor i see Eneko Acero with his dive mask.
I know him for a long time and really like his happiness of life.
Straight he offer me the mask saying he was done and he was going to eat ,i said i was going to eat too, just want to check the end of the harbor.
we talked about the contest, the heats going on just around the corner and he told me Jay was diving in the end of the harbor but he couldn´t follow him as he was to deep under the water.
He try it but he only saw him way down the bottom and looks like he was holding his breath training on a Yoga position.
I walked to the end trying to see something and came back.
If was in this days i will be way more scared than before to his life as now as i training a lot apnea i know you can black out easier.
Wasn´t the case and Eneko and i, next day when we knew the bad news about he drowing had that discution and he told me, Eric i could get to the bottom that deep he was..but sure, we might call some one that could.
One thing i learned , i never go deep diving anymore when i am alone spearfishing.
Jay movie is going out today and i will watch and remembered that happiness on his face.
http://youtu.be/jh09vEGNrXc

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Nazaré big article at magic seaweed.com

http://magicseaweed.com/Nazare-Opens-Doors-for-2012-Content/4026/8/

Gabriel Medina vs Julian wilson Peniche final


Everyone knows that final was a shame.It is hard to be the whole day on the beach judging and i think former ASP surfer Ross Willians is righ, sometimes need be surfer for judge, but there is surfer up there the only thing i don´t know if they can express themselves or the head judge influence are to strong.
I really think having an ex-pro tour surfer on the panel would help the scores," says Williams.
Gabriel won is a fact but he should be more pro in any case, cause this is the life he choose to follow..

Good story at surfline : http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/analyzing-the-medina-wilson-final-at-rip-curl-pro_77870/

NAzaré at Waves.com.br


Monday, October 22, 2012

west Ireland with Sancho,Justine,Ferg,Tom....

One of my best travel ever..as always Irland always give me big emotion!
I woke time dark time and woke the whole crew.
Big breakfast Irish style with eggs, bacon, sausage...
We almost went to surf one gnarly left but sancho says keep the energy to paddle this afternoon.
You will need it!

We go to the harbour where i see my some two nice guys and friend of mine Ferg and Tom(photo 1)we get to the spot after 40 min driving the jet and waves are pumping.
Tom Lowe is out by himself and i for me his is the one who was pushing the paddle way..After his first wave i paddle out and get starting my thing..didn' t get any big barrel deep but stoked to paddle that perfect big barreling wave for the first time and for sure will be one of my future destination...

Sancho here relax on the bow..
me,trying to backdoor ...

 Tow session start with Liets at the left not far from there..and finished with us at the right..
Justine Dupot on the video stoked with this nice barrel..
We went back to the harbor at dark ..with the front wind and the waves , was one of the worst driving ever..
Rest day with my girls tomorrow!






Sunday, October 21, 2012

little article at Surfportugal from NAzare..

http://surfportugal.sapo.pt/blog-surf-portugal/1737-sessao-na-nazare-com-eric-rebiere-e-garrett-mcnamara-video-e-fotogaleria