Wednesday, December 2, 2020
First swells Every season drives you on a full excitement . It is this feeling for every big wave surfer. Too many months of small waves up here at the north hemisphere and on a covid year with not much travel allow must didn’t get any big waves for months. For me was a successful summer with a lot of peoples happy having surfing lessons at Aftersurf Bastiagueiro. I have the pleasure of give must of the classes and saw a progression on many kids and adults. When I went down to Nazaré , there wasn’t a clear swell on maps and was all about a Icon jiu-jitsu black belt graduation . Something really special with many friends who were teaching me this art like Alex Isidro, Vinicius Constantino, Sergio Vita, Bruno Sales , Alan Brandâo , my great long time surf friend Joao Gutemberg and their partners.
Saturday, August 29, 2020
I had won the event in Argentina excess was my first year on the world surf circuit. After the South American leg that had done a good result in Argentina, but nothing special in Peru. Since in Brazil he had been run over and left out of the canoe capon event. Event that right now I just remember being run over. To have done a Duck dive and left my foot out of the water and that foot cost a hole in a beginer's beak that would have run over me if I hadn't been submerged. Or almost submerged. I went to Australia and nothing too. All events in the first round. From Australia I only remember dyeing my hair blue and going surfing. When he got out of the water, we went to mcdonalds and Fabio Goveia laughing at me at Horácio I didn't know how green he was. Until he told me to go to the bathroom. The paint had melted and turned all green. Modern phone-free times! No Instagram! I arrived in Europe passing only one battery in France in a giant sea. An incredible surf in Mundaka. Alongside legends like Bruce Irons. Zarautz was incredible. I don't remember where I stayed, but it moved well. A perfect firming bullet and I always stayed behind hoping for the best. Nowadays I regret the interference I put in the place, Eneko. I would have qualified this year and put an interference on the Brazilian evil. They were just rights. Nas I deny him inside the peak and I went to the left. Very good memories. Thanks Whohoo, for currently reposting on Instagram. Tinha ganho o evento na Argentina excesso foi meu primeiro ano no circuito mundial de surf. Depois da perna sul americana que tinha feito um bom resultado na Argentina, mas nada de especial no Peru. Já que no Brasil tinha sido atropelado e ficado de fora do evento de capão da canoa. Evento que agora mesmo só lembro de ser atropelado. De ter dado um Duck dive e deixado o pé de fora da água e esse pé custou um buraco de um bico de um beginer que teria me atropelado se não tivesse submerso. Ou quase submerso. Fui a Austrália e nada também. Todos os eventos no primeiro round. Da Austrália só me lembro de pintar o cabelo de azul e ir surfar. Quando sai da água, fomos ao mcdonalds e Fabio Goveia rindo de mim a Horácio eu não sabia quebrantava verde como o hulk. Até que me disse decir ao banheiro. A tinta tinha derretido e ficado a cara toda verde. Tempos sem telefone modernos! Sem Instagram ! Cheguei na Europa passando só uma bateria na França em um mar gigante . Um surf incrível em Mundaka. Ao lado de legends como Bruce Irons. Zarautz foi incrível. Não lembro onde fiquei , mas mexeu bem. Una bala decfireira perfeita e eu sempre ficava mais atrás esperando as melhores. Hoje em dia me arrependo da interferência que meti no local, Eneko . Teria se classificado nesse ano e coloquei uma interferência na maldade brasileira. Eram só direitas. Nas nego ele dentro do pico e fui para a esquerda . Muito boas recordações. Obrigado Whohoo, por repost actualmente no Instagram.
Wednesday, April 1, 2020
Interview with Jeremy, I record after the interview my live with the iPhone and didn’t end up good. So, I make a writing resume. Had met Jeremy, long time ago when he was a 9 years old kid. And back in that time, there was events in Reunion island. And for him, see all those pros, was a extra push to become prone the future. I had ask if he lardy could see him on that level. And he answered that not really but already saw a way to live and be a professional surfer, seen all those surfers. HIs father helped a lot him on that way. With a vision on how good he will be. Bring him all over the globe. Pushing him all the time. Between laughing and good talking memories, he talked about how confident he was when qualified and his amazing 8th in the world rock of the year. Think the highlight was talk about Andy Irons and how after went to his ceremony at Kauai , his approach at pipe was always think about him and how Andy will act if was him in competition situation. Famous to be super aggressive. That make him too get to the final and in the last second he was sure, someone sent him a wave to win his first pipe master. He did again after, in 2017 and beat the favorite and reign world champ, jhonjhon Florence. More title we talk was with Gabriel Medina and his victory in Tahiti. On good conditions , they battle was priority and Gabriel end up coming back to the peak set came and he started with a 9,…something and won.. on the same game Gabriel plays. Send prays for our good friend Leo Neves. And We all send lover and hope for those on Covid 19 virus time.
Tuesday, March 31, 2020
The idea of start this the idea of start some lives came from Anderson Pereira. A black belt icon jiu-jitsu that ask me if I want to do a live with him. I accept and think that will be cool if I could do a live with some friends and have some of the best surfer as a friend I really love to what started. cause was a way to think of good memories with than. here if the first one with Icon Jiu-jitsu team Swiss . Professor Anderson Pereira and Davi Alexandre who is staying on my house and got locked here in this tuff times that are happen with the whole world.