Morning sickness

Morning sickness

Friday, November 5, 2010

Confital contest

Andy Irons

I was going to Gran Canaria with my wife, dad and 3 month daugther and when i got there i receive one message from my close friend Patrick Beven.
My wife got the phon eand ask me.who is Andy?
I said, i know a feels but the Ändy¨ is the Irons one.
And i told her who he was.I just said simple, world champ and for me the best big wave surfer competitor. My wife and dad are not in the surf thing so i eed a long time to made a short Andy´s story.
We went around the village trying to find a hotel in the middle of the night and with this terrible notice.
I met him long time ago, but he wasn´t really my close friend but friend of all my friend.
Bruce was a lot with us when he came to his last French tour event and i felt one day a really cool person.
Some one that you what to stay close.
I start the tour in ¨97 when i was 18 and Andy too.
Saw him in Peru and ask who was that guy?
After that we had a man a man session at v-land and i could met him better.
Last summer saw him in France cause our sponsor Nixon was doing one party to our friend sancho.
He look realy happy to me and now i knew his kid is coming and i really give a intense good vibration to his wife more then any one else.
I just had my baby and is the must beautifull thing in the world and we all will happy to see this new life coming.
Be a strog mother!
God take your soul bro!

Sunday, October 31, 2010

contest.Sanjuan surf

Well,i am not happy at contest anymore.
I think i just shouldn´t do it anymore and focus all my energy at the biggest swells and new waves.
I wish could do it good at home, but sometimes is about luck, when the contest is ON under wick inconsistent conditions, it is not about knowledge, but well,  contest  is not my job anymore so...keep going thursday looks good for a new big barrel wave... let´s see.