Morning sickness

Morning sickness

Monday, July 29, 2019

4 x Spanish champ

5 am
I have insomnia and i decide to write about the Spanish championship a month or more ago ( don’t remember when was that anymore).
It has been really busy lately. First part of aftersurf, the terrace, is finally open after 2 years. Ad a summer time surf lessons, bjj teaching , single father with 2 kids, 5 Instagram accounts , one big wave event, one amateur event and helping all that I can on the bar or what ever needs , cleaning , rebuilding,.... it is hard just to write some lines on this blog.
I think this intro was a intro to explain how hard is to keep doing contests.. have your mind free to enjoy the time competing ..
That was my 4th straight Spanish master title. Something harder than my elite tour qualification or the European titles or a big wave title in Ireland, don’t think so.. my carrier had more stronger ups... but this keep me in shape and I see how my friends from my age love to do it and love to win and makes that strong completion vibe alive.
Thanks Dani,Milo for make a tuff last contest..
A last minute decision made me get a perfect wave far from the other competitors ( 9 points on video bellow).

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Wednesday, May 8, 2019

Brazil vs the world

Brazil vs the world

I was thinking to write about a bad judgement during this last event at Brlls.
I had see so many post that I truly believed that Jhonjhon vs Gabriel had a bad call..
But not on my eyes..
Gabe best waves is truly on the forever judgement criteria for Bells. Giant big turn on first turn makes scores goes up..
But new criteria Jhon’s was definitive better with a sequence of big turns..
I saw Italo’s a bunch of time and is right there on the borderline call. 
First I saw he did not interference and second what they were call is a track that could disturb a surfer that was already disturbed by the white water..
Could be both sides.. in this case I will jump or go straight.. even more after the wave he had before..
But to finish I will post this pics of all this victory’s from Brazilian..
I did grew up there ... never really did most of my carrier for Brazil but always travelled with both sides.. my good mates from Brazil and from Europe.
And can straight tell the whole world hate the Brazilians back them.. nowadays... not sure.. i am not in the tour..
But don’t think this pack of Brazilian flags makes Americans, Hawaians, Australians and even sometimes Europeans happy.
They differ rents and they don’t accept .. i live for most of my life in Europe with kids here and my point of view is that all this way of speak loud, of scream after victories, of claim and claim are not the way the world of other country’s like it and it is what it is..for sure they will be happy with a bunch of other flags on those victories.

Wednesday, March 6, 2019

Biggest wave of the season

This year xxl award has 2 really big waves to decide the biggest of the year.
In one hand , english man Tom Buttler who is chasing this titlle a couples years now in the side of Sebastian steudtner ( that already has 2 wins and this year putted Tom on this one (pic1).
And in the other hand , the prodigious hawaian Kain Lenny, that i think never had one win at the xxl awards yet.
Kai is competing in many categorys this year and even if for me, Tom´s wave is bigger, i have a feeling that Kai could win.
the picture of his wave was one of the most shared of the year and for sure , doesnt show the size good, it is impactant.
with a no profesional size mesuring, the view impact counts a lot nowadays.
Till the day a mesure system will start to maseure with computer, different angles and will eliminate the subjective view of judges.
Still the old days surfer 1,5 metres..wheres is the base? Where is the lip and lets count..



Monday, February 11, 2019

LipChain illa Pancha Challenge

This first edition of the Illa Pancha was something that i will never Forget. 
The team behind it had as a head directors Oscar García from Ribadeo, Lucas and myself from Aftersurf but a lot of names supporting us that I only can say big thank!!
We started working on it July 2018.
Proceeding every details for the day.
One day that wasn’t that easy to choose.
Swell for this place, get be as much north as I could see and monotorize the whole swell from the begging, up there, close to Iceland, hitting Ireland and coming down, was an stressful day by day check ( more like hour by hour check).
I remember asked many peoples and they all said will be bad, too small.
I had a talk with master forecast François Liets and he did see the same of me.
An solid north swell.
And from the other hand, Guys that have lots of experience in Nazaré and surfing there, all confirmed to come.

We had a short briefing one night before .
Ross and Axi decide to go surf another wave and alternates partner from Portugal, Lourenço and Francisco took their spot.

Waves start a bit slow and really pumped from quarters finals 4.
With a great show from Natxo and Adrian( Basque Country).
The two greatest fight for me was :
Semi 2 
Natxo / Adrian vs Pato / Scooby
The last 2 waves decide the winner with to back to back barrels and the Brazilians won it.
Same team did a crazy fight up against Lucas /Ian.
Lucas had some barrels, Pedro a good one that could win the best barrel of the contest ( waiting to see Redbull footage from a Pujol to really clarified this. I still in doubt between him and Lucas).
And Ian Consesa barrel was the one barrel that made the difference.
All day in the water.
A great show of barrels.
Sponsors happy.
Politicians happy 
Public happy
We all from organization , say a big thank you!!
See you at the next edition!
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Ian Consensa .
firstedition champ with Lucas Chumbo