Morning sickness

Morning sickness

Tuesday, December 10, 2019

Nazaré team France

Been selected for the next Nazare tow challenge is a honor for me.

I’ve been going to Nazare since early days when legend, Garret McNamara start his first trips side to side with Andrew Cotton and All Menie.
I get tell that my focus isn’t my profesional surfer carrier anymore.
My main go is raise my kids as good as I can in the same time I try my best to be fit.
Jiu-Jitsu is for sure the other sport that makes me on track on this go to be fit.
A very intelligent martial art that makes you fit same time that you look for option on attack / defense.
And my main go on big waves is surf better and better illa Pancha, for my own happiness and organize this great adventure on the side of Aftersurf partners and local Oscar Garcia to make this thing a stop on big wave surfing

Nazaré team France

Been selected for the next Nazare tow challenge is a honor for me.

I’ve been going to Nazare since early days when legend, Garret McNamara start his first trips side to side with Andrew Cotton and All Menie.
I get tell that my focus isn’t my profesional surfer carrier anymore.
My main go is raise my kids as good as I can in the same time I try my best to be fit.
Jiu-Jitsu is for sure the other sport that makes me on track on this go to be fit.
A very intelligent martial art that makes you fit same time that you look for option on attack / defense.
And my main go on big waves is surf better and better illa Pancha, for my own happiness and organize this great adventure on the side of Aftersurf partners and local Oscar Garcia to make this thing a stop on big wave surfing

Nazaré team France

Been selected for the next Nazare tow challenge is a honor for me.

I’ve been going to Nazare since early days when legend, Garret McNamara start his first trips side to side with Andrew Cotton and All Menie.
I get tell that my focus isn’t my profesional surfer carrier anymore.
My main go is raise my kids as good as I can in the same time I try my best to be fit.
Jiu-Jitsu is for sure the other sport that makes me on track on this go to be fit.
A very intelligent martial art that makes you fit same time that you look for option on attack / defense.
And my main go on big waves is surf better and better illa Pancha, for my own happiness and organize this great adventure on the side of Aftersurf partners and local Oscar Garcia to make this thing a stop on big wave surfing

Monday, July 29, 2019

4 x Spanish champ




Master
5 am
I have insomnia and i decide to write about the Spanish championship a month or more ago ( don’t remember when was that anymore).
It has been really busy lately. First part of aftersurf, the terrace, is finally open after 2 years. Ad a summer time surf lessons, bjj teaching , single father with 2 kids, 5 Instagram accounts , one big wave event, one amateur event and helping all that I can on the bar or what ever needs , cleaning , rebuilding,.... it is hard just to write some lines on this blog.
I think this intro was a intro to explain how hard is to keep doing contests.. have your mind free to enjoy the time competing ..
That was my 4th straight Spanish master title. Something harder than my elite tour qualification or the European titles or a big wave title in Ireland, don’t think so.. my carrier had more stronger ups... but this keep me in shape and I see how my friends from my age love to do it and love to win and makes that strong completion vibe alive.
Thanks Dani,Milo for make a tuff last contest..
A last minute decision made me get a perfect wave far from the other competitors ( 9 points on video bellow).

Follow :
Aftersurf
Esurfacademy
Icon bjj world
Illa Pancha Challenge

Co-sponsors :
Nixon
RVCA
Perfect waves
Jobsite surfboards
Rob Vaughan surfboards
Featherfins
Cabreiroá
Estrella Galicia
Gures 

Wednesday, May 8, 2019

Brazil vs the world

Brazil vs the world

I was thinking to write about a bad judgement during this last event at Brlls.
I had see so many post that I truly believed that Jhonjhon vs Gabriel had a bad call..
But not on my eyes..
Gabe best waves is truly on the forever judgement criteria for Bells. Giant big turn on first turn makes scores goes up..
But new criteria Jhon’s was definitive better with a sequence of big turns..
I saw Italo’s a bunch of time and is right there on the borderline call. 
First I saw he did not interference and second what they were call is a track that could disturb a surfer that was already disturbed by the white water..
Could be both sides.. in this case I will jump or go straight.. even more after the wave he had before..
But to finish I will post this pics of all this victory’s from Brazilian..
I did grew up there ... never really did most of my carrier for Brazil but always travelled with both sides.. my good mates from Brazil and from Europe.
And can straight tell the whole world hate the Brazilians back them.. nowadays... not sure.. i am not in the tour..
But don’t think this pack of Brazilian flags makes Americans, Hawaians, Australians and even sometimes Europeans happy.
They differ rents and they don’t accept .. i live for most of my life in Europe with kids here and my point of view is that all this way of speak loud, of scream after victories, of claim and claim are not the way the world of other country’s like it and it is what it is..for sure they will be happy with a bunch of other flags on those victories.

Wednesday, March 6, 2019

Biggest wave of the season

This year xxl award has 2 really big waves to decide the biggest of the year.
In one hand , english man Tom Buttler who is chasing this titlle a couples years now in the side of Sebastian steudtner ( that already has 2 wins and this year putted Tom on this one (pic1).
And in the other hand , the prodigious hawaian Kain Lenny, that i think never had one win at the xxl awards yet.
Kai is competing in many categorys this year and even if for me, Tom´s wave is bigger, i have a feeling that Kai could win.
the picture of his wave was one of the most shared of the year and for sure , doesnt show the size good, it is impactant.
with a no profesional size mesuring, the view impact counts a lot nowadays.
Till the day a mesure system will start to maseure with computer, different angles and will eliminate the subjective view of judges.
Still the old days msure...one surfer 1,5 metres..wheres is the base? Where is the lip and lets count..
Tom´s

Kai´s

Kai´s

Monday, February 11, 2019

LipChain illa Pancha Challenge

This first edition of the Illa Pancha was something that i will never Forget. 
The team behind it had as a head directors Oscar García from Ribadeo, Lucas and myself from Aftersurf but a lot of names supporting us that I only can say big thank!!
We started working on it July 2018.
Proceeding every details for the day.
One day that wasn’t that easy to choose.
Swell for this place, get be as much north as I could see and monotorize the whole swell from the begging, up there, close to Iceland, hitting Ireland and coming down, was an stressful day by day check ( more like hour by hour check).
I remember asked many peoples and they all said will be bad, too small.
I had a talk with master forecast François Liets and he did see the same of me.
An solid north swell.
And from the other hand, Guys that have lots of experience in Nazaré and surfing there, all confirmed to come.

We had a short briefing one night before .
Ross and Axi decide to go surf another wave and alternates partner from Portugal, Lourenço and Francisco took their spot.

Waves start a bit slow and really pumped from quarters finals 4.
With a great show from Natxo and Adrian( Basque Country).
The two greatest fight for me was :
Semi 2 
Natxo / Adrian vs Pato / Scooby
The last 2 waves decide the winner with to back to back barrels and the Brazilians won it.
Same team did a crazy fight up against Lucas /Ian.
Lucas had some barrels, Pedro a good one that could win the best barrel of the contest ( waiting to see Redbull footage from a Pujol to really clarified this. I still in doubt between him and Lucas).
And Ian Consesa barrel was the one barrel that made the difference.
All day in the water.
A great show of barrels.
Sponsors happy.
Politicians happy 
Public happy
We all from organization , say a big thank you!!
See you at the next edition!
Follow us at illapanchachallenge.com

Ian Consensa .
firstedition champ with Lucas Chumbo

Wednesday, October 24, 2018

Galician contest 2018

It is always a challenge to compete. 
Personal or exterior challenge.
In this year state of Galicia championship was my personal .
I had work a lot during the summer.
Days of many surf lessons going into a job as a Bar man on my own business aftersurf.
Many days closing 3 am and cleaning everything with my partner, the Argentinian owner of alcorte, Lucas.
19 hours work.
Tough but good.
Good to know that you do can come out of your comfort zone as a surfer and learn other activists that is not as easy or as you used for long as surf is for me.
So 2018 Galician contest was a challenge as a worked more than surfed.
Didn’t train and didn’t have a good board.
My surf students came to support me and was a really stand out part of the day.

New board came one day before the event start, from jobsite Portugal and worked insane.

My long time student Juan Fernandez won the open division.
Las year he got second behind me and i am really happy this year he beat me.Sure i felt in on ereally good right for my out out shape barman and surfschool season, but still a really great victory and i am proud of him.

Final vibes with Juan.
Club de surf Galaico got second in over all clubs with only 4 athlets competing.


Saturday, July 14, 2018

3 x spanish champ

For the third time in a row i won the spanish tittle in my category.
Happy for the win, but i wish every single legend could be there and enjoy the moment in the side of Dani Garcia, Pablo Solar, Milo Castelo, El Gato, ..Names like Eneko Acero, Ilker Fuentes, Jose Maria Cabrera was missing..


Thursday, June 21, 2018

big wave interview

I am petty much on my way to retirement.
Last season i did not have time to surf the waves i want before really step out and this winter i will keep try to do it.
More in Galicia.
This is an spanish interview about big waves and all the world around. Jetskis,  team  work.. 
But it is in spanich:

https://www.tetongravity.com/films/andy-irons-kissed-by-god

Wednesday, May 2, 2018

SURFING BRAZIL

Had a blast visiting my family and friends at Arraial do cabo.

A very special place with one of the greatest boat trip in Rio de Janeiro´s state.


Wednesday, February 21, 2018

Joao de Macedo

Couples years ago i was still chasing swells around the globe. Might be around 6 years ago..

Good friend from Ericeira, Diko Pires told me that i should visit another good friend of him who was living in Mavericks.
I was dreaming to go there and see closely that crazy slab.
(I wrote this whole story many post before, go check it searching  this in my blog : http://www.ericrebiere.com/search?q=mavericks)

Joao is hiring me now, in other words, give me a job driving the sky at Nazaré and doing his safety.
The main goal was do a good result at the contest. things did really went good.
In my eyes was even worst.
I need to say i was having a double check at Joao during his heat.

But i was so sure he was going right, well , even all the others competitors, cause the wind was strong and north, making the left super hard to take off .
Joao got this left and soon he took of i was at the others side at the end of the right already running at his direction.
I only saw the begining of the wave and i was 100% sure he didn´t make it.
When i got to him, i tripped.. i couldn´t see his eye , only blood spitting out..
i help him to go in the sled and run straight to the shore ( video here)







He defenily made me felt proud. i couldn´t believe he came back out..
with me that was still dealing to my way out to the line up with the jetsky ( check the post beafore this one and read how hard is to make trought at Nazaré.


3 days after this big swell showed up and he asked me if he couldn´t try to tow.
I told him i was going to Maya GAbeira early and after that yes, i could tow him.
Afternoon, tide came up and Alex Botelho with others guys start to paddle.
Joao got his paddle board and i did his rescue.
For 4 hours, not much happen.
One nice one, one wipe out and in the end of the session he paddle for this crazy one.
My view was this mutant lip almost breaking on him, that not sure how, back off right on the top of him.
made me remeber those view of Mavericks, when you see the barrel and the guy desapearing on the row.
Really stoked to him and this wave and how humble and warrior his is in the water and dealing to be a father of a boy at the other side of the atlantic.

Proud of you bro!




check world surf league interview of him :

http://www.worldsurfleague.com/posts/294965/joao-de-macedo-none-of-us-have-a-death-wish

Monday, January 22, 2018

Nazare : biggest wave ever saw it and the inside driving experience





Past weeks we saw a run of swell that solidify Nazaré as the more often big wave in the world.
As other places need a very big swell to see xxl, Nazare needs a 6 m swell to see 100feet waves.
And that I can tell is true cause I saw with my eyes.
The afternoon of the Wednesday 17 Jan , was for sure the biggest waves I saw in my life.
We went out early and was 20 feet we go back 16 pm and I don’t know .. but I guess was 100 feet.
The waves bellow was the biggest of the next day, 18 th.
The day before was breaking Way outside and top to bottom.
First view of the line up was Alex Botelho getting this huge monster and after switch and get on the drubbing he putted Hugo on the biggest wave I ever saw I surfer.
Nobody has a proper photo of video.
The land shot is dark and nobody thought to get a far angle by the side ( must of every photographer or filmmaker don’t really has an expert sense of the waves and ocean as ya that are inside. But I can tell that the 17th Jan changed my mind of how big this place can be ( just to want to write for myself that I got one too and was a crazy feeling when I was dropping the wave and all the surface got dark . Was sunset time and the mountains behind was covering the ride . Intense feeling)

I had work with João de Macedo for many paddles days on rescue and with Maya a Gabeira in medium tow days preparing for the big swell.

Both are stocked and ready and I am happy to did go a good work placing João at the line up and rescuing him and choosing and rescuing Maya.

I had some days too with French-Brazilian surfer Michelle the bouillons and one day that we went out with Mario Almeida, the manager of edp Mar sem fim project that support Portuguese’s surfers on big waves.
We did rescue st the harbor and went out for a real action at the north canyon.
Michelle got 2 waves and list the board at the third one .
I left her swimming at the line up and went for the board with Mario.
Waves were way smaller than everyday we surged and high tide. I did not anticipated that ( as an experience surfer and pwc driver I put all responsibility on my back. Did even check before go in trusting in my skills. Mistake!).
And 6 to 10 feet shore break on the sand wasn’t giving any space to drive the pwc.
Left Mario close to the beach and when I pass by him on the only single window I had he missed. After that the situation got worse.
I went again and saw we did not have time to position the pwc to hit the white water, as there was not one. So I went further to the sand ( well , on a 10 feet space from the beach to the waves, there wasn’t further. Almost park on it).
That wave did not break so I just jumped the pwc after make sure was front nose to the wave . Turn off to not eat the sand and destroy the propeller. Said to Mario run away and saw this shore break in the pwc breaking and sending couples feet’s more on the sand.
Now the thing was serious. Normally I know inside is thought but after I went so many times for so many years I feel a little rush but confortable.
This time I was eyes wide open knowing I will need all my skills and I little lucky to get out from there.
The danse started..
Feet on sand, fingers on turn ON bottom and acceleration...
Shore break hit the sand.. push water under the jet. Check next wave, turn On, turn off ..
And did that 5 times as the current was starting to push us to the rocks when waves were filling the sand and sucking back ..
My concern was have that little window to have enough time to turn on the pwc after have water under and not such sand..
Enough one to jump, accelerate and hit the next wave..
Problem was we only have 10 feet space from sand to wave  and must of the waves weren’t breaking. so I could not find a proper hit on a white water and hit a wall (stading wave),


 is almost a no go ( this happen before years ago with my friend Alex Botelho and that time I had not choice as make a duck dive with the pwc. Scary time so I didn’t want to do it again).
Saw a set a bit bigger and said to Mario get ready.
If we had 2 solid 10 feet ones , we had a chance. Cause one could fill up the sand the the next one could break a bit further but I will hit a strong white water and not a wall.
In question of seconds that happened..
We both jump on the pwc when water filled up. Turn On and accelerate .
Second one was just breaking and I new the impact will be strong.
We hit the thing and my both legs was out of the pwc . I keep it the hands and when we landed this next shore break was way bigger.  At my right I saw a little back walsh wave and  got the 2/3 sec to turn the pwc that way ( 15/20 feet away and only chance).
Used as a ramp, fly and hit the top of the wave. The speed, with the weight of us and the pwc made us and soft impact this time.. In a couples secs we were outside, picking up Michelle .
Mario with the adrenaline high on his vain saying that was an intense first time.
I just wanted to put pwc our and safe as my good friend Joao de Macedo just bought after years getting pounded without rescue..
Stocked in the plane from Lisboa to Coruña to see my kids.
Miss them a lot and already feeling the big hug and kisses in a couples minutes..


Past weeks we saw a run of swell that solidify Nazaré as the more often big wave in the world.
As other places need a very big swell to see xxl, Nazare needs a 6 m swell to see 100feet waves.
And that I can tell is true cause I saw with my eyes.
The afternoon of the Wednesday 17 Jan , was for sure the biggest waves I saw in my life.
We went out early and was 20 feet we go back 16 pm and I don’t know .. but I guess was 100 feet.
The waves bellow was the biggest of the next day, 18 th.
The day before was breaking Way outside and top to bottom.
First view of the line up was Alex Botelho getting this huge monster and after switch and get on the drubbing he putted Hugo on the biggest wave I ever saw I surfer.
Nobody has a proper photo of video.
The land shot is dark and nobody thought to get a far angle by the side ( must of every photographer or filmmaker don’t really has an expert sense of the waves and ocean as ya that are inside. But I can tell that the 17th Jan changed my mind of how big this place can be ( just to want to write for myself that I got one too and was a crazy feeling when I was dropping the wave and all the surface got dark . Was sunset time and the mountains behind was covering the ride . Intense feeling)

I had work with João de Macedo for many paddles days on rescue and with Maya a Gabeira in medium tow days preparing for the big swell.

Both are stocked and ready and I am happy to did go a good work placing João at the line up and rescuing him and choosing and rescuing Maya.

I had some days too with French-Brazilian surfer Michelle the bouillons and one day that we went out with Mario Almeida, the manager of edp Mar sem fim project that support Portuguese’s surfers on big waves.
We did rescue st the harbor and went out for a real action at the north canyon.
Michelle got 2 waves and list the board at the third one .
I left her swimming at the line up and went for the board with Mario.
Waves were way smaller than everyday we surged and high tide. I did not anticipated that ( as an experience surfer and pwc driver I put all responsibility on my back. Did even check before go in trusting in my skills. Mistake!).
And 6 to 10 feet shore break on the sand wasn’t giving any space to drive the pwc.
Left Mario close to the beach and when I pass by him on the only single window I had he missed. After that the situation got worse.
I went again and saw we did not have time to position the pwc to hit the white water, as there was not one. So I went further to the sand ( well , on a 10 feet space from the beach to the waves, there wasn’t further. Almost park on it).
That wave did not break so I just jumped the pwc after make sure was front nose to the wave . Turn off to not eat the sand and destroy the propeller. Said to Mario run away and saw this shore break in the pwc breaking and sending couples feet’s more on the sand.
Now the thing was serious. Normally I know inside is thought but after I went so many times for so many years I feel a little rush but confortable.
This time I was eyes wide open knowing I will need all my skills and I little lucky to get out from there.
The danse started..
Feet on sand, fingers on turn ON bottom and acceleration...
Shore break hit the sand.. push water under the jet. Check next wave, turn On, turn off ..
And did that 5 times as the current was starting to push us to the rocks when waves were filling the sand and sucking back ..
My concern was have that little window to have enough time to turn on the pwc after have water under and not such sand..
Enough one to jump, accelerate and hit the next wave..
Problem was we only have 10 feet space from sand to wave and must of the waves weren’t breaking, so I found my hit a white water and hit a wall is almost a no go ( this happen before years ago with my friend Alex Botelho and that time I had not choice as make a duck dive with the pwc. Scary time so I didn’t want to do it again).
Saw a set a bit bigger and said to Mario get ready.
If we had 2 solid 10 feet ones , we had a chance. Cause one could fill up the sand the the next one could break a bit further but I will hit a strong white water and not a wall.
In question of seconds that happened..
We both jump on the pwc when water filled up. Turn On and accelerate .
Second one was just breaking and I new the impact will be strong.
We hit the thing and my both legs was out of the pwc . I keep it the hands and when we landed this next shore break was way bigger.  At my right I saw a little back walsh wave and  got the 2/3 sec to turn the pwc that way ( 15/20 feet away and only chance).
Used as a ramp, fly and hit the top of the wave. The speed, with the weight of us and the pwc made us and soft impact this time.. In a couples secs we were outside, picking up Michelle .
Mario with the adrenaline high on his vain saying that was an intense first time.
I just wanted to put pwc our and safe as my good friend Joao de Macedo just bought after years getting pounded without rescue..
Stocked in the plane from Lisboa to Coruña to see my kids.
Miss them a lot and already feeling the big hug and kisses in a couples minutes..








Maya Gabeira link for website Ö Globo¨ :   https://globoesporte.globo.com/radicais/surfe/noticia/em-nazare-maya-gabeira-surfa-onda-gigante-que-pode-entrar-para-o-guinness.ghtml

Sunday, January 7, 2018

Nazaré starting the 2018 year

I got the 5 hours down south to Nazaré from Bastiagueiro beach where i live at La Coruña for a sucecive run of swell.
I´ve been working with Joao de Macedo on his training to the Nazaré challenge paddling contest, that is a stop of the big wave world tour . I had on big day working with 2 times xxl winner Sebastian Steudtner and now i start to work with all time top big wave women Maya Gabeira.
When i say work , is most of the time i don-t surf , i just drive the ski for rescu and positioning Joao on paddling days( max 60feet faces) and choosing waves, putting on it and rescue on giant days (seb and Maya), over 60 feet.
 following arcticles about all this days .

Surfline:

http://view.surfline.com/943967


Joao´s top bomb at my youtube channel:




Sunday, December 17, 2017

the big wave exploration

Living in Galicia not always i have the opportunity to surf all the waves that i want cause not many expirience driver and surfers to be outside at the wild ocean.
Most of the time without support as ambulance or any other lifeguards in case of big accidents.

when surfers like Ross-clarck Jones , Sylvio Mancusi ( and Sylvio´s wife Bia and kid Ben, Marcelo and Marco Tulio Cameras,Ross girlfriend Ella with Lino Bogalho),  come for a visit i try to surf the most of it.
We start at Coruña, but winds did not got as good as we expected.

My student Juan Fernandez had a really good wave this day.

Sylvio, Marcelo, Eric (right to left)

Sylvio and me 

Lino,Ella,Ross and Eric ( left to rgiht)

Galicia views
Bay of Coruña, Orzan, with Hercule´s tower at the back,.. the oldest light house that still working. Romain empire constructers were not that bad hehe
Juan Fernandez and the opportunity to get all the masters experiences.


Same day they arrive i was at the biggest local jornal from Galicia talking about my life, how i got at Oleiros, Galicia , Big surf and the new business ( Cafeteria Bastiagueiro at Facebook and after.surf at Instagram).
La voz de Galicia

we did move up north for the second part of the swell.

 La voz de Galicia


 El Progreso

Frame by Marcelo at the Burela´s slab


The last day of the trip  Ross left with his crew to surf Nazaré.
I had stay with Sylvio behind and we had a try to this spot that was surfed by legend Basque surfer Ibon Amatrian back in the days.
Harbor was close and we do say big thanks to Burela´s captain that left us go throught.
Might say that they saw us surfing the slab one they before and already new us .
Local Oscar, from Coge3, help us a lot too and is always good to have local support.

El Progeso jornal

La voz de Galicia jornal



to finish the big expedition the inauguration of Cafeteria Bastiagueiro, the first part of aftersurf project was a big sucess..

https://www.lavozdegalicia.es/noticia/coruna/coruna/2017/12/16/cafeteria-bastiagueiro-arranca-ritmo-maco/00031513444508305824952.htm


Monday, December 4, 2017

Galicia Champ 2017

It is a mixing of feelings to compete.
Sure all this local scontests are not really my goal to my professioanl carrier but i was talking to my student Martin Cortijo about this during our way to last weekend Galicia championchip at Razo that how important is guys like Miguel Perez ( miniwilson on instagram), Juan Fernandez,Milo Castelo and others still competing like me
The level goes up and the ones who will get this knowledges of more level are kids like Manuel Fernandez Or sebastian( two under 14 kids who are ripping fromGalici).
About this contest, i won my category (master up 35) and open.
Really enjoy the fact my student Juan Feranandez that is improuving his surf and posting more and more good scores.
With the spanish title this year i am both Galicia and spanish champ on title.
Opening my new surfschool and club in Galicia.
This is good for peoples know me here and make sure to come learn surf from a pro-surfer view of the ocean.
Thanks all the comunity here to open the doors to me.
Special thanks for the Fernandez´s family from Oleiros.