Was on my surf school when tele5 Spain showed up to talk about this attack.
Had surf many times there and is a very dangerous place.
Stocked his is ok!
Monday, July 20, 2015
Wednesday, June 10, 2015
NIXON SURF CHALLENGE 2015 | HAINAN, CHINA from NIXON Europe on Vimeo.
Think this trip just solidify my good mood lately.
I need start to talk about the trip in Ericeira, a week before when I was giving surfing lessons for Icon Ericeira BJJ and surfcamp.
The main guy who organize that is a long time friend, 5*blackbelt Ze Marcello.
Not only was a pleasure see him and his family that I was always with in Ericeira, but must of the persons that I know there and are my family nowadays. Tiago Oliveira, Diko Pires family, Vinicius's family, and so many others names that I could write a roman here.. Luis, Miguel's, Ze..
And one more, my old friend from the world tour trip for years, Joao Gutemberg 's family.
Thanks Laura to come too and to always been helping me .
So, the last day of that I need quite the camp to go home see my kids , give 2 lessons on my surf school at Sabon ,before take the plan to China.
My way up with a full car of stuffs.New epoxy boards from Jobsite to my competitions students and a Pwc at the back wasn't a best trip ever.
Even more, master wife birthday was during the barbecue ..
Every bad mood went away when I got to my ex wife house and mother of my 2 beautiful kids with a nice welcome.
She lend this book for the trip that changed my way to see things.
Doctor Eben Alexander' s book, talk about how was he science view of life and than his new spiritual experience.
I always believe in God and more than ever now. And for sure, my way to see things with my ex wife changed a lot.
Will love her the rest of my days.
Been his couple or not.
And will try my best to see her happy and our happiness be the main education to our lovely kids.
This is was the mood I arrived I Haynan.
35/40 degrees tropical touristic place that received us as good as any other place the Nixon surf challenge went before.
Little extra thanks to Oz Wade and Italian Nick for the amazing reception.
Group was all years must of new friends travelers.
Gony Zubizarreta, Marlon Lipke, Jhonatan Gozales, Kepa Acero,willy Alioti, Gaspard, Duvignac , old friend Henning, Laurel..
More in the crew.. Fred Begou, ben, Oporto filmmaker Gustavo, Bonnarme ..
We stayed on this amazing hotel full of the best discos around and a city that welcomes you with all kind o topical chinese ( and unforgettable food and culture).
Couples memories from the trip , for me, will be all time Gony's( followed from Kepa, Jhony , marlin and myself) old stories.
We know each other's for many years now and every time we did the 1,5 way to go surf further north at this fun beach break that the owner give us a opportunity to surf( 6 billion dollars new touristic zone call clear water. Not that clear as beaches and icean in China are beautiful but full of plastic and rubbish ), we always remembered this old details of our carriers.
Henning's last speech was just amazing.
Not only he gave the trophies for "I rocked China( guy who must surf, party, challenge himself in China, but I think, giving good mood for everyone): Myself
Best trick( an giant almost full rotation that anyone on the ocean screaming after and applauded) : Duvignac
Overall best surfer : Jhonatan Gonzales
He start the speech saying how important was for Nixon support our personal projects ( Gony an Marlon new accessory company Jam, Jhonatan shop at Las Americas and my new surf academy at Sabon beach Arteixo)
Must of the people's don't know how much stress is move from pro surfer to have an other business plan.
We all still sponsorize and I could talk in my case, even think my carrier after next winter, will jump more than ever. But the weight of need to always give back to sponsors for a future contract , for sure is more and more impacting with age.
Something like Nixon ambassador Henning said, was just urge best thing we heard from a sponsor in our carrier and I know we will always have Nixon on a Top spot on our carrier and heart.
Chinese don't go to much in the water cause old legend says the dragons make the waves
Thursday, April 23, 2015
Saturday, April 18, 2015
Monday, April 6, 2015
Wednesday, March 11, 2015
Got home monday night, on a flight from Lanzarote-Gran Canaria-santiago de compostela.
Weather is way better in Galicia and i wasn´t that sad from leave Lanza..
Not only cause the wethaer, but see the kids is just something especial all the time.
Their mother is traveling right now, so i need to make sure one go to school, and the other, who is sick, have attention durng the night.
this mornig left the big one on school, pass by my surfschool in Sabon beach to see how the rebuild is going and went to check la toxica( youtube : https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=la+toxica+surf )
Wave swere firing and i went for a surf.My friend Remi, from tripsurfgalice.com came to shot some video for me. And got some good ones, some wipeouts, some pull back and went back got my daughter on school.Had this great news that she has a new school to go really close to home ( she was going far away and by car every morning is a nightmare. Adn the charpentier said will start the last part of the surfschool rebuilding project friday.So a great day!
Had a really cool weekend.
Got to Lanzarote and the worst peoples ever rent my place left my house.
Staied 2 days cleaning and make this giant trash with all this durty things from them.
After the first day, kids were going to surf Las Bajas, one outer reef that i surf long time ago and i was really happy to see such a big crew of kids going for it.
I used a to short board and i knew i will eat a set on my head.
Saw, tried to get as much waves as i could before that happen, and after got the big one i expected on my had and a long hold down(long time did not have one and make you feel really good).
before left the water went to ask one kid who lost his board , Josh Braddok, if he wants to have my board and i swinming back, but he said no and i feel like happy, cause first thing on big waves is put your ass back on the beach by your own.
Contest star on a epic day.And could finish too, cause after the stop, of the first day, tide went lower and was just like Pipeline.
Got one of my worst wipeoute there ever(Radicalsurfmag will published soon).
Next day waves drop and some heats were off shore and some on shore.
Jose Maria won, I got second, Jhonatan Gonzales(with his single clean style), got third and Manuel Lescano(my favorite there nowadays9, got fourth.
Thursday, February 26, 2015
Left home really early with s 9,6 and a tow board.
Add my Billabong V1 wetsuit , water, fruits and pass by Bastiagueiro beach to pick up 3 friends that wanted to go on a mission.
Tripsurfgalicia owner , Rémi, was talking about this waves for a while and from no where, one guy from my facebook sent pics from the same area that I was suppose to go check.
Swell was a huge 27 feet 18 sec day.
Giant one. I knew the chance to see a proper wave wasn't that big. Winds were a bit north and all north of Galice needs a bit south( with the all time west in the middle).
We got there and was a nice beach break bay, with this big right breaking outside and some white water on the back massing out the long distance view.
Ask the local bar how to check beyond that area and after they gave India they laughs as any one when hear we looking for big waves.
From the top of the clif I saw this mutant wave taking some seconds to the lip hit the bottom.
I knew was really big and straight I felt alone. Wish Billabong adventure Crew was there. Or my friends seb, Tom, Andrew, Silvio,... All those guys that control the situation.
Checked another right breaking about 15 feet sets but decided to check this other spot first, cause was between this take of right or get some barrels,
Always like the barrel way. Next time I try to surf both.
Realise i did not have a small baord, only the big gun and the tow board and my friend left me a old 6,8 for the session.Thanks to him cause he did not surf for let me surf!
The left was a beautiful set up. With little harbor, island , clean off shore ocean and a bunch of surfers that was all smiles.
Had a fun session and came back home happy to my family arms.
Thanks Ledicia for the pics.