Series _ Eric Rebiere. El Quemao. Lanzarote. De los mejores tuberiders del planeta, mostrando su destreza en sus largas estancia en su isla predilecta. Recuerdo aquellos años, principio de los 90, como un joven atrevido solo deseaba estar en este spot. Muy buena gente el incansable Rebrix. Sabio en su lectura de cuando y como entrar por detrás en días muy comprometidos. Aloha!. www.radicalsurfmagazine.comwww.josevglezvisions.com
i did grew up on a place very small and by the ocean.
when i had move to europe, something that i missed a lot was my days on the ocean.
I always had play on the ocean and is something that i will really enjoy see my kids doing.
Today i went early to down tow(photo below) , and after many ours doing papers i pass by the ocean(town is by the ocean, like Honolulu), and first thing i though, i want to go for my daily 30 min sprint physio swimming.
i got to Famara and went for it.
Almost getting to the beach i saw this octopus and was fun.
I had a crazy 30 min sprint, saw it but my heartbeat was high.
I did really care cause it was going to a cave.
went down and crab with one hand.It keep going down and i could go with the other hand behind the head( as you kill them turning it).
Got home and knock the door and how funny was my friend face tripping as i left for training and came back with the octopus.
I just move back from Ericeira to Lanzarote. Sure, i will always go back to Ericeira, as i love the waves, i love my friends there and most of everything, my kids still living there.
Here in Lanzarote the life is more wild.I can go get my fishes for lunch.Will start my vegetables (Had start in Ericeira with my ex wife and is something that everyone should have).My ankle is getting better and i am walking on dunes (check facebook post), swimming a lot, spear fishing and checking business, organizing winter big surf .
Thanks my close friends here.In the pics are Marco Imbernos, Manuel Lescano and Gines Diaz (photos and video). But i have more that are making my stay warm.
Very happy with João de Macedo win at outer reef Santana in Azores, during edp Mar sem fim expedition.
First of all, congrats buddy!
That day João was charging a very bumpy day out in the ocean.
The spot is between 1 to 2 km out in the ocean.
We went driving the pwc from Rabo de Peixe harbor .
Little mission, cause every time waves pick up , fishermen park their car on the ramps.
We lucky our friend and experience life guard Marco Medeiro was with us and made all clean in a minutes.
First i got there, João was getting that first left he won Portugal's biggest wave this year.
I jumped in the water just after that wave and we both sit in the middle of the ocean.
João was charging any set.
I was a bit with no confidence on my board.
Every wave i got i felt all the bumps.
I remember tell him to be careful. Not about the size, cause was big but not giant, but about the bumps.
After couple waves, he got a sick right and in the end he lost the back foot on a bump.
Stretching his knee.
Swell was only 12 feet that day.
I think the day will be bigger and clean, we will surf an amazing giant wave.