Morning sickness

Morning sickness

Friday, April 29, 2016

Accidents , time to change?

First time I realise the world of surf has some weird things was long time ago.
I went to Hawaii on my late's teens. Right after I had move from Brazil to France.
I used to cruise a lot with Patrick Beven.
He is the one guy who told me to move as he is  French Brazilian as I am and was already in Europe.
Days in Hawaii were always with him at his sponsor's house beach front, where we could check waves all day long as much as the sunset, whales and all the amazing things hawaian days can offer.
One day I got there really early and pipe was empty.
I got my board and paddle straight to the peak.
Paul Patterson was the only guy at the line up with me and this beautiful 10 feet set came trough.
I was so stoked to see a perfect wave come in my way that I start to smile.
Next thing, crazy wipeout.
Should paddle way before and way stronger.
Touch the bottom on my stands, but the wave sucked me over the falls.
Hit the face first one the reef.
Like a punch.
Happy did not lost conscious.
Got the surface spray blood everywhere.
Run to Patrick's house who were recording ( we try to find the video but it's lost).
He was keep recording and checking and not saying nothing.
World champ Phil Razman, showed up and said I should go to the hospital.
Left his insurance card with me saying we both had big nose and I had just broke mine so should go through.
Well, really did.
Back to house Patrick laught saying my girls Hawaiian season was done. 
After I start to used helmet and was I realised how bad world surf media's kills you using helmet. Not passing photos any where.
I start to write this cause nowadays top WSL surfer Owen Wright is on a bad position to come back to his top surf level after touch the reef at Pipe.
Why is not a normal thing use the helmet like skater or other sport ?
I wish this will change!Owen Writgh

Aaron Gold

Tuesday, April 5, 2016

6 years old kid

saw this post on facebook and tripped.
Such an young age and already surfing that good.
i start to analyze why there is so many talents at the tropics .
Think must of all the water temperature and outside is the keen point.
Kids ( as much as adults), want to have a good time.
Adults are easier to wear a wetsuit and go out, but kids is not the same.
My daughter is 5 and i see on her how much she likes when is warm and sunny and when is cold( i don´t even take her on the middle of the winter, too cold).
Bring your kids to a surf trip on warm water!

Olha ai galera esse filme e um pouco dos meus treinos ,que venho me dedicando para as competições de 2016 ,agradeço a meus apoio e a galera que torce por mim OBRIGADO.
Posted by Victor Santos on Thursday, February 25, 2016

Tuesday, March 15, 2016

Respect ..

Not sure why people publish this things. Journal saying why world champ , local, drops one guy in the middle of 500 as Super bank is.. Man, he did even see no one paddling ... come one.. if was on Brazilian jiujitsu or any other hierarchy sport or life.. you are doing something wrong.
I remember this old guy there in Dbha.. right close to super bank..
THere was only rights and this guy paddle over him( i myself and 200 from the wqs contest back in the days), he only laught to the guy and said, you going left? i was with Miky Picon and we laught for weeks about that..
Mick Fanning is not old, but i am sure this guy behind him is not that old man i saw it.

Wednesday, March 9, 2016


Friday, February 26, 2016

Laurent Pujol videos

the Real friends you know they there. Those that you don´t need been calling them all the time like chicks rasseling.. they there when you pass by there house and knock theirs doors and say ¨what up¨and is like saw yesterday.
In France i have many of them..
Many others places too.. but just said France cause my buddy here Laurent Pujol is the cause of those lines.. as much as Patrick, Sancho, François, daze,..

Met Laurent long time ago during European pro tour..
He did the change to photo and now video maker.
Think he is always placing himself on some spots that only a true surfer as he is for be calm and shoot.

SHOWREEL 2016 - LAURENT PUJOL from Laurent Pujol on Vimeo.

Friday, February 12, 2016

V television interview

click on links :

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Galicia searching

I was at Lanzarote cause must of the time i stay half there half in Galicia during the winter.
Went i saw the forecast i was keen to comeback to try to town-in some of the biggest waves of the winter.
My friend Andrew Cotton change his plans on last second and decided to go up to Ireland( probily best option always as the waves the are the best big waves to surf..big clean and barreling)When i arrived in Santiago Sunday night i was always checking the forecast. My contact at MSW was helping me out with winds as much as François Liets as usual.
Not many otion was coming to my head with such a big swell and wind. My students got the road to Lugo as waves are always more protected from wind but smaller. I decided to stay at A Coruña. I had one option to surf in the middle of A Coruña bay or this wave here that i had try last year with my friends from Ledicia filming company.
Back than i knew could be better bigger cause the wave breaks close to the rocks and bigger ¨safer¨could be.
I paddle out right went the biggest of the swell was fill in. I already new was way bigger cause the paddle out was way more waves and withe water than the first time.Waves were breaking more far from the rocks and with a such big swell i knew i could get with lucky one really big one.
 straight away i got this wave here and felt really confortable on my 10´6¨Rob Vaughan ( we have been making boards for many years now and his big one has a different rails than other shaper and i am more and more confortable o it)
Right after the first wave many cars of police and firemens as much of local civil protection service start to arrive.
I was at the line up checking the sets, positioning myself and checking them.
I know how much work they have on this days. And have many friends who work on it. And is Carnaval. Wasn´t keen to give any problem.
" cars left and i thought they will let me stay and i could concentrate myself for next set.
Right before a big set fill in the firemans make me signs to leave.
I screw that big set, as i wasn´t at the right place.
With a such long perieod swell , sets takes long time to come and i wasn´t really calm to wait and give trouble to anyone.
So i smooth paddle back to the small beachlauching spot.

Cops and firemens was waiting for me.
They told about the risk. they ask me if i will be back, i said yes and they told me to call before i surf next time.
I ask with i could go back to water but no.
Spot is there and will be many more paddling session there.
One option on giant swells and no need of PWC.
Thanks Eva Díez and TNK vision for be there shooting.

Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Big wave medsea mission

Quemao class 2016

Thanks for the amazing word of Radical surf mag about i start to surf the spot on low tide.
appreciate it.
Congratulations to Dimitri Ouvré.
I heart myself on this wave rolling in my back inside the barrel.
Check feature at :

Monday, January 11, 2016

Monsanto killing us

I just arrived home in Lanzarote when my friend came to me saying the owner of his house was sparying Roundup (     ) everywhere.
Next day i went to ask at the local place the helps all farmers ( and giving away this really bad pesticide).
My goal is do a eco agriculture in my land and i went to ask for the stamp of eco food.
The lady said i only need to pay 35 euros and one fiscal will come to see what kind of growing process i was using.
I ask what about if i used anything before.
the answer was not what i expected, as they don´t care if you use any products before.
Roundup, used for clean all ¨bad¨things growing could be used and they don´t care..
All peoples who is buying bio thinking they buying a good food was wrong..
watch uot!

Tuesday, December 8, 2015


New destination goes a lot with surfers personality.
We change so much as the ocean as the waves.
A new wave and new place to surf involve all the feelings of " new" ..
For those who don't surf I will put on a smaller scale as a new tasting food.
When I was in Galicia and so the wind direction going straight to the medsea I new could be a good fun session.
A last minute crew made and we all get the 15 h road plus 10 boat.
First session was about 12/15 feet waves. Outer reef paddling. With a 15/20 min paddle out on one of the amazing little bays of this paradise island.
Had a good begin session with some drops and broke my leash and leash plug. Board disappear on the ocean and I did the long swimming back to the beach.
One local found the board lately and we decided to move to a tow in slab session.
The time we found a harbor and did the long way to the spot, wind changed and session blow.
I did I little paddle session next day, follow by local boy Francois and his girl.
Many wipeouts and one solid one that I felt in the end.
Left my board there and can't wait to come back.

Monday, November 30, 2015

Azores.Mar sem Fim

This project call "mar sem fim" ( check link here for the poetry who the named the expeditition : , and made by , for me, the best paddle surf of Europe, João de Macedo, has hwvibtebtion of surf new big waves.
Last expedition solidify the potential of this great wave at Ribeira Grande.
Monster paddle surf, Alex Botelho came with us and they both our a show of surfing.
Both with lots of experience at Mavericks, was found some steep take off.
I start tow-in and gotmu paddle board after.
Missing d a bit the time doing this.
Now, u thought I shouldn't toe and just paddle.
The best we know now after the session is that with a 10 feet 15 seg swell on a low tide, we had surf 15 feet waves.
Think on a solid giant swell on a high tide, waves could be 60 feet.
We are checking to go back on a solid forecast and make real our predictions.
This is the third expedition we do at Açores islands.

Wednesday, October 28, 2015

Nazare first big one 2015

Check interview at :

and :

Thursday, October 15, 2015

The son of a friend. Neves generation

Saw this shot of my good friend Leonardo Neves son on his facebook and really enjoy the fact he is following the step of his dad.
Met Leo when we were compiting on under 14 or 12.....don´t remember. back in the days in Brazil.
He met his ex wife in Peru and had 2 kids.
One of them is this kid here. Valentin Neves.
Leo is one of this friends that i don´t see that offen anymore.
We used to fly everywhere to follow the world tour stops.
But life is keeping us taking care of family far but i know in the future we will shre sessions again and with the incoming generations!
Send the kid to Europe Leo!

Friday, October 2, 2015

Nixon last edited

Copilation of winter waves
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Thursday, September 10, 2015

New spot checked Galicia. JC left

I was cruising checking waves with good friend Junior Carvalho and he showed me this wave.
Wheni first saw i thought to close from rocks.
But today i give a chance.
Think will be coming back during the winter and might have those epic days.
One thing for sure...
Will be barrel bigger far from rocks..

Tuesday, September 8, 2015

the BJJ Icon Galicia

Had some blasting time this year opening my new gym here in Galicia.
We had the visit of Senegal surfcamp and his amazing crew.
After big master Ze Marcello, came with many of my friend as Diko Pires,David MAsa, Valentin Rossi, Bruno Sales, Vinicius Constantino.. and a bunch of teenagerrs to the inauguration of the new Icon Jiujitsu gym at Sabon.
Did not wrote that much before as i had a summer full of surf and jiujitsu lesons.

Monday, July 20, 2015

Shark attack To Mick Fanning

Was on my surf school when tele5 Spain showed up to talk about this attack.
Had surf many times there and is a very dangerous place.
Stocked his is ok!

Moving up Viana do Castelo

Interview Alto Minho Radio,

Porto tv

Wednesday, June 10, 2015

Nixon surf challenge


ChinaIndicador regional para ChinaSurfistaOnda do marPessoa levantando ambas as mãos em comemoraçãoRosto beijando com olhos fechadosRosto sorridente com olhos em forma de coração
Think this trip just solidify my good mood lately.
I need start to talk about the trip in Ericeira, a week before when I was giving surfing lessons for Icon Ericeira BJJ and surfcamp.
The main guy who organize that is a long time friend, 5*blackbelt Ze Marcello.
Not only was a pleasure see him and his family that I was always with in Ericeira, but must of the persons that I know there and are my family nowadays. Tiago Oliveira, Diko Pires family, Vinicius's family, and so many others names that I could write a roman here.. Luis, Miguel's, Ze..
And one more, my old friend from the world tour trip for years, Joao Gutemberg 's family.
Thanks Laura to come too and to always been helping me .
So, the last day of that I need quite the camp to go home see my kids , give 2 lessons on my surf school at Sabon ,before take the plan to China.
My way up with a full car of stuffs.New epoxy boards from Jobsite to my competitions students and a Pwc at the back wasn't a best trip ever.
Even more, master wife birthday was during the barbecue ..
Every bad mood went away when I got to my ex wife house and mother of my 2 beautiful kids with a nice welcome.
She lend this book for the trip that changed my way to see things.
Doctor Eben Alexander' s book, talk about how was he science view of life and than his new spiritual experience.
I always believe in God and more than ever now. And for sure, my  way to see things with my ex wife changed a lot. 
Will love her the rest of my days.
Been his couple or not.
And will try my best to see her happy and our happiness be the main education to our lovely kids.
This is was the mood I arrived I Haynan.
35/40 degrees tropical touristic place that received us as good as any other place the Nixon surf challenge went before. 
Little extra thanks to Oz Wade and Italian Nick for the amazing reception.
Group was all years must of new friends travelers.
Gony Zubizarreta, Marlon Lipke, Jhonatan Gozales, Kepa Acero,willy Alioti, Gaspard,  Duvignac , old friend Henning, Laurel..
More in the crew.. Fred Begou, ben, Oporto filmmaker Gustavo, Bonnarme ..
We stayed on this amazing hotel full of the best discos around and a city that welcomes you with all kind o topical chinese ( and unforgettable food and culture).
Couples memories from the trip , for me, will be all time Gony's( followed from Kepa, Jhony , marlin and myself) old stories.
We know each other's for many years now and every time we did the 1,5 way to go surf further north at this fun beach break that the owner give us a opportunity to surf( 6 billion dollars new touristic zone call clear water. Not that clear as beaches and icean in China are beautiful but full of plastic and rubbish ), we always remembered this old details of our carriers.
Henning's last speech was just amazing.
Not only he gave the trophies for "I rocked China( guy who must surf, party, challenge himself in China, but I think, giving good mood for everyone): Myself
Best trick( an giant almost full rotation that anyone on the ocean screaming after and applauded) :  Duvignac
Overall best surfer : Jhonatan Gonzales

He start the speech saying how important was for Nixon support our personal projects ( Gony an Marlon new accessory company Jam, Jhonatan shop at Las Americas and my new surf academy at Sabon beach Arteixo)
Must of the people's don't know how much stress is move from pro surfer to have an other business plan.
We all still sponsorize and I could talk in my case, even think my carrier after next winter, will jump more than ever. But the weight of need to always give back to sponsors for a future contract , for sure is more and more impacting with age.
Something like Nixon ambassador Henning said, was just urge best thing we heard from a sponsor in our carrier and I know we will always have Nixon on a Top spot on our carrier and heart.
Crazy story:
Chinese don't go to much in the water cause old legend says the dragons make the waves Face de dragão🐉Onda do marOnda do mar
Can wait to go back ( on the flight back now), and pass all this motivation to my kids, my ex-wife, students and friends and be always trying my best to see everyone happy on my side.

Thursday, April 23, 2015

Drone Galicia

Working on newtakes for a winter clip with Tanaka vision

Magic Galicia.Photo: TNK vision
Posted by Eric Rebiere on Thursday, April 23, 2015