Morning sickness

Morning sickness

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

Sunday, August 3, 2014

Days in Portugal and Surfportugal coverage

Just got back from Ericeira, where i did surf a lot at São Julião with all my bros.
Surfportugal article from João de Macedo big wave surfer and writer.Make sure you buy and read it.

Ribiera surfcamp lounge with my boards and Nazare shot from To mané.

Nick and myself stoked

gave surf experience to this groupe of girls from Madrid and "El capitan"

Surfportugal spread on local's hand Diko Pires.

Maria wearing her leg on the wetsuit arm..

Radical surf mag photographer

Series _ Eric Rebiere. El Quemao. Lanzarote. De los mejores tuberiders del planeta, mostrando su destreza en sus largas estancia en su isla predilecta. Recuerdo aquellos años, principio de los 90, como un joven atrevido solo deseaba estar en este spot. Muy buena gente el incansable Rebrix. Sabio en su lectura de cuando y como entrar por detrás en días muy comprometidos. Aloha!. www.radicalsurfmagazine.comwww.josevglezvisions.com

Friday, June 20, 2014

the ocean life

i did grew up on a place very small and by the ocean.
when i had move to europe, something that i missed a lot was my days on the ocean.
I always had play on the ocean and is something that i will really enjoy see my kids doing.
Today i went early to down tow(photo below) , and after many ours doing papers i pass by the ocean(town is by the ocean, like Honolulu), and first thing i though, i want to go for my daily 30 min sprint physio swimming.
i got to Famara and went for it.
Almost getting to the beach i saw this octopus and was fun.
I had a crazy 30 min sprint, saw it but my heartbeat was high.
I did really care cause it was going to a cave.
went down and crab with one hand.It keep going down and i could go with the other hand behind the head( as you kill them turning it).
Got home and knock the door and how funny was my friend face tripping as i left for training and came back with the octopus.

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Lanzarote as a home

I just move back from Ericeira to Lanzarote. Sure, i will always go back to Ericeira, as i love the waves, i love my friends there and most of everything, my kids still living there.
Here in Lanzarote the life is more wild.I can go get my fishes for lunch.Will start my vegetables (Had start in Ericeira with my ex wife and is something that everyone should have).My ankle is getting better and i am walking on dunes (check facebook post), swimming a lot, spear fishing and checking business, organizing winter big surf .
Thanks my close friends here.In the pics are Marco Imbernos, Manuel Lescano and Gines Diaz (photos and video). But i have more that are making my stay warm. 



Monday, May 26, 2014

Outer reef Azores-

Very happy with João de Macedo win at outer reef Santana in Azores, during edp Mar sem fim expedition.
First of all, congrats buddy!
That day João was charging a very bumpy day out in the ocean.
The spot is between 1 to 2 km out in the ocean.
We went driving the pwc from Rabo de Peixe harbor .
Little mission, cause every time waves pick up , fishermen park their car on the ramps.
We lucky our friend and experience life guard Marco Medeiro was with us and made all clean in a minutes.
First i got there, João was getting that first left he won Portugal's biggest wave this year.
I jumped in the water just after that wave and we both sit in the middle of the ocean.
João was charging any set.
I was a bit with no confidence on my board.
Every wave i got i felt all the bumps.
I remember tell him to be careful. Not about the size, cause was big but not giant, but about the bumps.
After couple waves, he got a sick right and in the end he lost the back foot on a bump.
Stretching his knee.
Swell was only 12 feet that day.
I think the day will be bigger and clean, we will surf an amazing giant wave.



http://vimeo.com/91928766

Friday, May 23, 2014

Nixon Surf challenger.Russia

We had an amazing time in Russia.
Not even the 18 000 bears what enough to make the group afraid of camping.hehe
Think Nixon has this particular crew that make every where we are a good time too.
This first two shots is the vibe of Alioti who won the overall and myself.
He was flying and i was trying to get speed on a 3 degrees water.
He boosted this in front of me and my arms could not stay quite.


In other hand i had this fun little barrel that day.Off shore and fun.
Thanks Nixon and let s see what next year bring to us.

NIXON SURF CHALLENGE 2014 | KAMCHATKA, RUSSIA from NIXON Europe on Vimeo.

Sunday, May 18, 2014

Mar sem fim Açores at Surfportugal

Azores is been one of my favorite destination.
I am really happy to be invited from Mar sem fim by João de Macedo do this new destination on big surf.
We got there not knowing anyone and now i am so happy when i see a swell on the map and i know i will be hanging with Garoupinha, Marco and our own continental crew.
Something that really made me stoked is surf for my first time a wave.
Every time a surf a wave that i never surfed before i have this feeling when i was starting surf.
This is Surfportugal article in portuguese.
Big thanks to all that had been help us there.
Local state , friends and locals.












Friday, May 9, 2014

Russia Nixon challenge 2014

First of all, i think this is one of the best time of the year for me.
Nixon challenge , crew and the surfers team are a true cultural exchange.
We come from many countries and talking different languages.
Have stories to update and we all on Nixon new destination every year.
We go for surf , have fun between friends and try the best of our surf with this amazing atmosphere.
This year destination is Kamchatka Peninsula.
We all had a some crazy connection flights to get there.
As i post before my first stop was Amsterdam.After i had another one in Moscow.
I got there 4:30 am .My credit card never work and i was thinking stay 12 hours on the airport alone.
Had some Reais from my last trip in Brazil and change on some horrible rating.
Got a message from one of the crew organizer saying all other coming that day.
The whole crew finished going to the red square before the late connection flight.
I felt been in a intense historical place.

RED SQUARE
photo: Laurel








when we arrive we all trip cause as soon as you leave the plane you go straight to the car parking outside of the terminal.
And you need go through one door with your bag ticket to pick up the luggage.
Hotel first impact and city was a bit choking.Must of all outside construction are not finished and needing some fix.

Hotel

We all pack inside a big truck and left to the hour way to the beach o a very bad off road.
Truck house


city

Anton , the local, really took care of us.


The beach break was a long beach, with mountains view behind.Really fun for surf. breaking almost in the same time.
we had a small but consistent first day.
And way bigger and fun second one, that we all recognize we shouldn't never left the beach think will be better the next day with the off shore coming.
That really happened , but waves weren't solid 5 feet anymore, just an small 2/3 feet.
We camping that night on a minus 5 celsius. A night mark on everyone life's.
we all stay together, eating, drinking, sleeping, playing with ball, chess, quad...
Amazing time between friends.
elena the cook did some of the best plates and make our stay even better.
had fun surfng.Best wave i had was a fun barrel combo with a floater.

Brazilian Jiu-jistu adction

fresh Cod fish
morning iced board after the camping night

the truck has a heather inside, and after every session we all warmed up our body on surf 3 degrees celsius water temperature. And was the talking stories and laugh time.

beach view on the right
Sunset beach view behind

Salmon color show us how bad are the ones we eat back in home now.They have 15 different kind and Kepa Acero here bellow told me that june start the season.He learned that on his trip to Alaska( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ty7rQTWUw6E ).Back there he even could get the salmon with his hand.He told me there is so many that the river became red.


kepa telling me stories




More links
:
http://magicseaweed.com/news/kamchatka-challenge-dispatch-2/6372/?page=20806
http://www.e-adrenaline.fr/eau/actualites/rendez-vous-en-terre-inconnue-le-nixon-surf-challenge-2014-debarque-en-russie/4080