Wednesday, March 11, 2015
Got home monday night, on a flight from Lanzarote-Gran Canaria-santiago de compostela.
Weather is way better in Galicia and i wasn´t that sad from leave Lanza..
Not only cause the wethaer, but see the kids is just something especial all the time.
Their mother is traveling right now, so i need to make sure one go to school, and the other, who is sick, have attention durng the night.
this mornig left the big one on school, pass by my surfschool in Sabon beach to see how the rebuild is going and went to check la toxica( youtube : https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=la+toxica+surf )
Wave swere firing and i went for a surf.My friend Remi, from tripsurfgalice.com came to shot some video for me. And got some good ones, some wipeouts, some pull back and went back got my daughter on school.Had this great news that she has a new school to go really close to home ( she was going far away and by car every morning is a nightmare. Adn the charpentier said will start the last part of the surfschool rebuilding project friday.So a great day!
Had a really cool weekend.
Got to Lanzarote and the worst peoples ever rent my place left my house.
Staied 2 days cleaning and make this giant trash with all this durty things from them.
After the first day, kids were going to surf Las Bajas, one outer reef that i surf long time ago and i was really happy to see such a big crew of kids going for it.
I used a to short board and i knew i will eat a set on my head.
Saw, tried to get as much waves as i could before that happen, and after got the big one i expected on my had and a long hold down(long time did not have one and make you feel really good).
before left the water went to ask one kid who lost his board , Josh Braddok, if he wants to have my board and i swinming back, but he said no and i feel like happy, cause first thing on big waves is put your ass back on the beach by your own.
Contest star on a epic day.And could finish too, cause after the stop, of the first day, tide went lower and was just like Pipeline.
Got one of my worst wipeoute there ever(Radicalsurfmag will published soon).
Next day waves drop and some heats were off shore and some on shore.
Jose Maria won, I got second, Jhonatan Gonzales(with his single clean style), got third and Manuel Lescano(my favorite there nowadays9, got fourth.