Morning sickness

Morning sickness

Saturday, October 13, 2012

Friday, October 12, 2012

Pro France..

Sneaking one before the final start..
The pack of peoples makes me remind the years on tour.

Sudouest jornal from southwest France


http://surf.blogs.sudouest.fr/tag/rebiere

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

beach break part II River mouth

After talked about the bottom of Graviere and had surf there last week i have a great session clsoe to where a live now.
This time on a river mouth bank.
As the name says, is when a river is full of raining water or from many month not been opened and when that happens makes a sand bank just there where the sand had been opened to push the river water out..
Mundaka is a river mouth and the most famous one.
This session made me remind that spot..
Best barrel i saw was from Local legend Tiago PIres.We were surfing by it self at the last 30 min light.Both had break boards and both got a sick barrel..
Stoked!
Swell just change direction and not gonna work for a while now and bank might change too.
big thanks to Pedro Mestre photographer..





really hard paddle out..



Tuesday, October 9, 2012

analyzing beach breaks part I

I´ve been surfing a  nice river mouth here at Portugal..
But before i write about that i want to write about La Graviere, France.
Name came from the old times before the coast law(as i learned with master journalist surfers Archi ).
Big trucks was getting the sand to use for construction as at Graviere the sand is from la Grave that means those small rocks used for construction and why the name had keep it  there for ever .
Don´t know if the bank becomes more hard or less harder but makes little sound when you eat a wave and you have your face by the bottom , clink clink clink!
one thing i believe is as the sand bank always move with big swells the small rocks should be harder to move..
Graviere wasn´t working for many years but looks like will be there for many now..
 Shot from Camille Dubois a lover of surfing from Bretagne who lives at toulouse for the moment finishing his school.Same as me always looking for a good forecast to go to the ¨landes¨(rname of the french southwest coast)