Friday, December 14, 2012
Thursday, December 13, 2012
Wednesday, December 12, 2012
I left home early dark time.My plans was get the pwc and go down to NAzare.
I had call my friends, Tom Buttler, Sebastian Struder and HUgo Vau who are living at NAzare jsut for the big conditions.
They all said, waves are small don´t need the pwc.
I went down with my friend and photographer Bruno Novoa seeking the swell but a bit sad cause i did not want to leave my 9,5 month pregnant wife alone.
As i was going down i could stop to check the swell forecast 2,8 2,9 m with 14 sec and 290 293 degrees ..
that is a solid Nazare and was what i found went i got there.
The 6 feet in the morning was 15 now.
Went i arrive up on the fire house i saw a perfect A frame set wedging by the rocks.
Could not believe and straight waxed my board put the wetsuit and try to paddle out..just try cause did even get in the middle way trough the outside.
Went back all piss off of leaving my with and could not surf.
I was going to surf Coxos after call my good friend and Coxos master Miguel Fortes that said was good good down there.
I went to say bye to Tom and Seabass and they said, man, we go with the pwc and we take you to the outside.
I lef teat a soup and when i was back they were already out and Tom was killing it.
Perfect 12/15 wall and he even got a petty nice cover up..
I was watching and waiting on the beach.
Hugo Vau was first take out and seabass came after to pick me up.
i was between the 7,6 and the 10´6¨
i finished with the 10´6¨.
We got out and tide was start to get low and was like Tom perfect 3 waves.
I got 2 nothing that great and Tom split with seabass.
After a couple sets one big set came trough and Tom said to go further out.
He did have not the time to say any other word the biggest set till that pint broke 3 feet i front of seabass and myself.
I pop up my v1(it is the old oen from last year that the wetsuit is full of rows but the engine still work)
As i looked Tom was picking seabass form the white water.
He got a broken board i was washed in after some waves to the shore.
Went back, change the capsule of the V1 and got my best wave on the second try.
Tide was too low, waves was getting to hollow and with to much sand and they start to tow.
I got 2 and left stoked.
that little black thing in the middle low is my head on the second one of the set before washed out..
Always good to eat shit and keep going.Can wait to goback there!!
Monday, December 10, 2012
He lost for Micky Fanning last time there at Pipe(contest that i am been watching and enjoy every night when i get home here in my step parents house where we decided to wait for number 2 son).
he had one runner-up finish before (that that every one might don´t remember, cause was a easy world tittle win), when Andy won his second tittle couples years ago.
Must the peoples that i know wants him a champ.Not only cause he deserver it as he did strt a new style of surf, his own style but cause sometimes we all want a different person winning(Kelly is fighting for it and i don´t know you but i like when there is a fight for the tittle but even there is a fight Kelly had won too many times)
This is her on a Irish perfect barrel.