My plans was go to the Hossegor contest with my friends and than go try Belharra paddle next day, last sunday..
Things start to change when my first wave at "la Nord Hossegor" i did a crazy wipe out on the take off(could be one of my best barrels in France wave if i made it).The wave suck me back and trough me right to the sand on my butt.
Stretching my legs.
Went to Francois Liets house(Billabong adventure man and friend ), and as we was checking the forecast to Belharra i received a email from Gary Linden to compete at the Punta Galea contest.
I decide to go there and pass Belharra, even with could be one of the best paddle session ever.
Slept really bad with a lots of pain in my hind quarters , junction to the body and start to get the road taking pain killers pills.
I arrived to the contest dark still and twiggy Baker.
He definitely line up as fast as every one else the hard Punta Galea Line up, getting many waves every heat.
My side , i only get one and lost my board.
Congrats to Twiggy!
Thursday, December 19, 2013
Very happy to see all my friends in the water and get some funny ones..some straight one too to training for big days..
Hendaie beach, where my close friend David lives.We did a crazy running one night for 45 min that really made me tired.I am in Ericeira now, but going back tomorrow there to surf La nord big wave contest , Belharra and some other spots after that..
Saturday, December 7, 2013
Friday, November 29, 2013
Tuesday, November 12, 2013
I saw this shot and i was think how hard is to catch a wave in NAzare paddling.
Most of the big waves around the world , has one perfect line up.
But Nazare as a beach break, come from everywhere and sometimes, you need to be lucky to be on the right spot.
Friday, November 8, 2013
Thursday, November 7, 2013
Wednesday, November 6, 2013
Monday, November 4, 2013
Sunday, November 3, 2013
Wednesday, October 30, 2013
Tuesday, October 29, 2013
Hard to talk about sizes and what ever..
My story is :
I woke up going to Nazare , cause swell should rise during last sunday 27, but in the end, only a few sets came trought solid and i did not paddle for it..shame!!
Next day i went dark time there.woke up at 4:20 am, drove from ericeira where i live to Nazare with Brazilian charger Silvio Mancusi( who show up the day before with family and staied at home), , rederico Pires(ericeira local surfer) and a Video Maker Marcelo.
Garret was out already and Burle tema was going out..we were lat team out..
i got a good one and said to silvio surf, cause i knew wind will change.
He got a couple, after a putted Coxa(Brazilian Surfer ) in some and head back hoem.
My firt call was Galicia, My second ,one secret spot dow n south to paddle and my last call Nazare and i endee up there.. http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/a-shot-across-the-pond-europe-swell-story_103569/
Ze Marcello and Eduardo Flexa
Monday, October 21, 2013
Friday, October 18, 2013
Woke up dark time as always (cause my son wake up time is 6am), and did not know what to do.
Stay home and surf the Cave or go to Nazare.
Big young crew will be charging Cave, and i was more in this way, but my friend Joao de Macedo call Nazare saying the Cave is to Dangerous(and came in my head what Shane Dorian told me when he came here,"the barrel in that wave is not worth the danger it is" and by the way, he surf when he was 18 during a free surf session when he came to compete).
We got to Nazare and was not that good.
Macedo got the barrel of the day in the morning.A solid 8 feet double up.
I saw , cause i was eating shit under that wave and amping for him.
He left to comment at the world tour contest in Peniche and i went to eat at Celeste restaurant.
Place that legend surf Garret Mcnamara goes eat.
Eat very well as always and a bit to much to go surf again.Dino Casimiro, local rep from local council was calling saying waves was on fire and i start to go back.
Jump in the car and saw this peoples calling for help on the shore, almost in front of the restaurant.
I knew was something bad already ,as people were in panic.
I got there and was 3 peoples out drowning .
i Went to the first one, one old man almost loosing conscious.
Beach there is like a skate half pipe, and to be like that waves break with all it power on the beach, and what happens is , people who is walking and not pay attention loose their feet and get wash out .
As must of them are not use to the ocean, the et scary and wit the panic they draw.
That old man and another young lady were almost on the beach and i look back and saw people already coming to help them.
So, i try to get my attention to the one outside.
And i could believe when i saw the body face down.
I jumped in the water and swim as fast as i could , only think could be to late(people can not stay more them 5 min not breathing, cause even if survive could be bad for the brain).
Got there and turn the body facing up and start to swim backward with her face already foaming a lot(after that legend Garret told me , that is a good sign).
Almost on the beach , another set came and i loose her, but she got smash to the beach and they got her.
Must of the people did not know what to do.
I knew we should turn her at the side and start to do the SPR help.
Garret arrive and start to be more strong on that and must be the one who put all those peolpes on the good way.
she is breathing by herself and that was the happiness of my morning today!!
Photo : Pedro Mestre