2 days surfing the same wave.OIa.
Today i am more stoked than yesterday as i d push a bit more my limits.
It is all about you not the others.
I am 100% sure if there was some others top big wave paddlers today they will get barrels there.
Conditions was a bit hard again as wind was not perfect and i think should bit a bit bigger swell.
Cause if you do not take off behind the double up the double just spit you lip to bottom.
I know cause i did today that.
Had one sick one on the double up first wave and thought all will be just a matter of go for it but i was wrong.
Went all the way top to bottom and my body hurst now.
The vision was a bit gnarly as i was trying to stand in my board and could not see the bottom anymore.
Next thing i was flying and my 10´6¨was still in my feet.I was so scary to land on that big wood and i had try to move my body a bit on the side.
All came ok, just a bad landing on my ribs, but all good.
Hurts but nothing that in a couples days will be ok.
Yesterday was yellow swell and yellow period on fnmoc and today same going to green.
windguru saying 316 degrees and all west wind going to south..
I really believe will be some nice big paddling barrels in the place on the future!
Thanks to daniel Rodriguez from Ponte vedra who came for today second session and did a nice take off.Maybe he did could pull in, if i was not free falling in his head,hahah