Aileens, west Ireland on MSW

http://magicseaweed.com/Aileens-Swell-Session-Content/4029/

River Mouth Ericeira

this days...Coxos and Sao Juliao

During the last fews days of Peniche contest many of the pro-surfers came to surf Coxos.
Really good fun with my bro Michel Bourez(who was ripping and getting many barrels), Mick Fanning and others.
I didn´t get many..one late take off was all..
But still stoked!I know the good days will come.

Photos :Alex Laurel, who is a good friend and was there shoting Michel Bourez for Nike.

After those days not much happened .
Couple funny surfs in front of home with all my friends and some nice little barrels one day on low tide.

photos:Pedro Mestre

finished up the weekend on a nice family party at home..with 15 friends and 8 kids..

Jay Moriarty

Long time ago at Lojifuji, one of many resort at MAldives just before lunch time i decide to  walk around to make time and go lunch straight.

The resort is in  small island where a perfect left is and tell what, nothing to do as surf or dive.
I always love to dive as my parents lived in a beach front long time ago and my sister and me used to dive since we young.
I walk to the harbor  to to a little check there as is the closest place to see something nice by the restaurant.
In my way to the end of the harbor i see Eneko Acero with his dive mask.
I know him for a long time and really like his happiness of life.
Straight he offer me the mask saying he was done and he was going to eat ,i said i was going to eat too, just want to check the end of the harbor.
we talked about the contest, the heats going on just around the corner and he told me Jay was diving in the end of the harbor but he couldn´t follow him as he was to deep under the water.
He try it but he only saw him way down the bottom and looks like he was holding his breath training on a Yoga position.
I walked to the end trying to see something and came back.
If was in this days i will be way more scared than before to his life as now as i training a lot apnea i know you can black out easier.
Wasn´t the case and Eneko and i, next day when we knew the bad news about he drowing had that discution and he told me, Eric i could get to the bottom that deep he was..but sure, we might call some one that could.
One thing i learned , i never go deep diving anymore when i am alone spearfishing.
Jay movie is going out today and i will watch and remembered that happiness on his face.
http://youtu.be/jh09vEGNrXc

Nazaré big article at magic seaweed.com

http://magicseaweed.com/Nazare-Opens-Doors-for-2012-Content/4026/8/

Gabriel Medina vs Julian wilson Peniche final

Everyone knows that final was a shame.It is hard to be the whole day on the beach judging and i think former ASP surfer Ross Willians is righ, sometimes need be surfer for judge, but there is surfer up there the only thing i don´t know if they can express themselves or the head judge influence are to strong.
I really think having an ex-pro tour surfer on the panel would help the scores," says Williams.
Gabriel won is a fact but he should be more pro in any case, cause this is the life he choose to follow..

Good story at surfline : http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/analyzing-the-medina-wilson-final-at-rip-curl-pro_77870/

NAzaré at Waves.com.br

west Ireland with Sancho,Justine,Ferg,Tom....

One of my best travel ever..as always Irland always give me big emotion!

I woke time dark time and woke the whole crew.

Big breakfast Irish style with eggs, bacon, sausage...

We almost went to surf one gnarly left but sancho says keep the energy to paddle this afternoon.

You will need it!

We go to the harbour where i see my some two nice guys and friend of mine Ferg and Tom(photo 1)we get to the spot after 40 min driving the jet and waves are pumping.

Tom Lowe is out by himself and i for me his is the one who was pushing the paddle way..After his first wave i paddle out and get starting my thing..didn' t get any big barrel deep but stoked to paddle that perfect big barreling wave for the first time and for sure will be one of my future destination...

Sancho here relax on the bow..

me,trying to backdoor ...

 Tow session start with Liets at the left not far from there..and finished with us at the right..
Justine Dupot on the video stoked with this nice barrel..
We went back to the harbor at dark ..with the front wind and the waves , was one of the worst driving ever..
Rest day with my girls tomorrow!

little article at Surfportugal from NAzare..

http://surfportugal.sapo.pt/blog-surf-portugal/1737-sessao-na-nazare-com-eric-rebiere-e-garrett-mcnamara-video-e-fotogaleria

Nazaré..

Raoni and slater at Peniche and NAzaré

Woke up at 6am today and went check the waves..

Always with my phone and having calls from Joao de Macedo, Bruno Santos, Silvio MAncusi, Ramon Laureano and others..

After a big storm yesterday i knew waves will be weird..bumping..

I drove by the coast from Sao Juliao up to Peniche with not very good.Had call my buddy Garret Macnamara who is living for a couple month at Nazaré with another bro Andrew Cotton to check how was there and nothing great either.

First good thing was watch my long time friend Raoni Monteiro bitting Kelly Slater and open the door to Parko and other to the world tour tittle.

After his heat went up to Nazaré and waves were pumping.

Garret putted me in some big ones...and was a scared day cause was to bumpy.

Waves cleaner now and might be amasing tomorrow.

This is from a couple days ago..not tow-in big ones like today..

Big thanks to Zon North Canyon crew , Andrew Cotton and Garret Macnamara..Raoni and me before his heat.,

And the crazy waves he pulled in for me was what deserve the victory to him..to crazy big close outs rights..

Watch the Nazaré show live at : http://www.facebook.com/ZonNorthCanyon?fref=ts

jetgalicia.com

Coxos..late afternoon

Brazilian Silvio MAncusi chaking the paddle out..

always a nice line up..

Percebes or surf?

brazilian sebastian ripping..

End of one of the best barrels i ever got(read story)

I was coming back from Nazaré when i saw the sea surface glassy like oil at Ericeira and knew will be good waves.

Left my wife and daughter with best friends Mia And Tina, got their other son Atsu and photographer Pedro Mestre and drove to Coxos.

Fisrt thing i heard was bad news, cause one friend of mine from Moledo, up north where i was living told me Jhon-jhon Florence was at Cave and was pumping and yes, i missed that session..

I went down the rocks with my board at Coxos (the rela name of the bay is 2 brothers as i just knew couple of days ago).

Waves wasn´t that good as tide to high ..

Later before the sunset tide drops, waves start to pump and not many guys out.

Local boy Paulo broke his board and told me go man, is good.

got one of my best wave there ever.

Tiago Oliveira, friend and well know at Coxos and me saw one crazy barreling one and paddle a bit futher out

That wave came doubling up and he looked me ..go go go..

did a very late take off( i thogh will fall) and pulled in no hands in one of my best backside barrel ever there..

stoked!

rivermouth clip part one..

from videomaker Nuno..

Pro France..

Sneaking one before the final start..

The pack of peoples makes me remind the years on tour.

Sudouest jornal from southwest France

http://surf.blogs.sudouest.fr/tag/rebiere

beach break part II River mouth

After talked about the bottom of Graviere and had surf there last week i have a great session clsoe to where a live now.
This time on a river mouth bank.
As the name says, is when a river is full of raining water or from many month not been opened and when that happens makes a sand bank just there where the sand had been opened to push the river water out..
Mundaka is a river mouth and the most famous one.
This session made me remind that spot..
Best barrel i saw was from Local legend Tiago PIres.We were surfing by it self at the last 30 min light.Both had break boards and both got a sick barrel..
Stoked!
Swell just change direction and not gonna work for a while now and bank might change too.
big thanks to Pedro Mestre photographer..

really hard paddle out..

analyzing beach breaks part I

I´ve been surfing a  nice river mouth here at Portugal..
But before i write about that i want to write about La Graviere, France.
Name came from the old times before the coast law(as i learned with master journalist surfers Archi ).
Big trucks was getting the sand to use for construction as at Graviere the sand is from la Grave that means those small rocks used for construction and why the name had keep it  there for ever .
Don´t know if the bank becomes more hard or less harder but makes little sound when you eat a wave and you have your face by the bottom , clink clink clink!
one thing i believe is as the sand bank always move with big swells the small rocks should be harder to move..
Graviere wasn´t working for many years but looks like will be there for many now..

 Shot from Camille Dubois a lover of surfing from Bretagne who lives at toulouse for the moment finishing his school.Same as me always looking for a good forecast to go to the ¨landes¨(rname of the french southwest coast)

Last day "en France"

Was some nice days here in France..

Contest is over, Kelly won again.

I though Jho-jhon won the other final ,but well Dane did the final.

Easy for Kelly.

I had some really nice barrels between semis and final and some other after.

Stoked!

Leaving to home this afternoon or tomorrow to see my family.

Many working days.Happy about that.

Webcasting on french and portuguese..interview for canal+, shots...

No always is happiness.

Laurent Pujol friend, surf and photographer(his shot)

But i think is his fault i didn' t make that one..

He is always saying to don' t grab the rails..so i got hit by the lip..