rivermouth clip part one..

from videomaker Nuno..

Pro France..

Sneaking one before the final start..

The pack of peoples makes me remind the years on tour.

Sudouest jornal from southwest France

http://surf.blogs.sudouest.fr/tag/rebiere

beach break part II River mouth

After talked about the bottom of Graviere and had surf there last week i have a great session clsoe to where a live now.
This time on a river mouth bank.
As the name says, is when a river is full of raining water or from many month not been opened and when that happens makes a sand bank just there where the sand had been opened to push the river water out..
Mundaka is a river mouth and the most famous one.
This session made me remind that spot..
Best barrel i saw was from Local legend Tiago PIres.We were surfing by it self at the last 30 min light.Both had break boards and both got a sick barrel..
Stoked!
Swell just change direction and not gonna work for a while now and bank might change too.
big thanks to Pedro Mestre photographer..

really hard paddle out..

analyzing beach breaks part I

I´ve been surfing a  nice river mouth here at Portugal..
But before i write about that i want to write about La Graviere, France.
Name came from the old times before the coast law(as i learned with master journalist surfers Archi ).
Big trucks was getting the sand to use for construction as at Graviere the sand is from la Grave that means those small rocks used for construction and why the name had keep it  there for ever .
Don´t know if the bank becomes more hard or less harder but makes little sound when you eat a wave and you have your face by the bottom , clink clink clink!
one thing i believe is as the sand bank always move with big swells the small rocks should be harder to move..
Graviere wasn´t working for many years but looks like will be there for many now..

 Shot from Camille Dubois a lover of surfing from Bretagne who lives at toulouse for the moment finishing his school.Same as me always looking for a good forecast to go to the ¨landes¨(rname of the french southwest coast)

Last day "en France"

Was some nice days here in France..

Contest is over, Kelly won again.

I though Jho-jhon won the other final ,but well Dane did the final.

Easy for Kelly.

I had some really nice barrels between semis and final and some other after.

Stoked!

Leaving to home this afternoon or tomorrow to see my family.

Many working days.Happy about that.

Webcasting on french and portuguese..interview for canal+, shots...

No always is happiness.

Laurent Pujol friend, surf and photographer(his shot)

But i think is his fault i didn' t make that one..

He is always saying to don' t grab the rails..so i got hit by the lip..

La GRaviere ,Hossegor pumping

II think this days is the biggest LA Graviere can hadle.10 feet with 10 feet sets.

Yesterday night was one one the biggest day i ever seen here.

Got 2 really good ones.

Just i was too short in my board and couldn' t slow down as much as i wanted.

kelly Slater even screamed for the big right i had..Not everyday you see guys like hin stoked in the water for waves and a pumping Graviere can do that.

Jhon-jhon was in the water too as Fred P, Vincent Duvignac, MAxim Hucenot, Wigoly Dantas,...

This is must of this morning shot and looks like is bigger again. so let s go surf another great session!

Crowd stoked with good surfer on good waves;

Ben Sanchis, local boy always gets his bombs;

A nice big left to me, but i didn' t make it;

Jhon-Jhon Florence always showing skill and technique..

Me on a long one..

tow-in board

I'd been working on tow boards with Rob since i get in the Billabong team early 2010..

This is just the third board as to give a real feedback and know if the board works good is hard.

As there is not many real big waves or many session to try it in different terms.

Well, we had start on a 5,8 that works really good for small slabs and beach breaks like Hossegor.

Max size of 10 feet.

So we made another 5,8 but more straight rails, more concave ant way more heavy.

Didn' t work and rob told me the concave when is too big and bump doesn' t handle it.

So this is the third one.

A bit like Garrets boards i saw at Nazaré.Normal pin and single to v botton..heavy.

Let' s try it this winter!

Cave and fever

I've been sick the last 2 days.

Think my daughter Uma  pass me the sickness..well daddy' s life.

Woke up this morning and off shore wind and north swell.

Got to Coxos around 9:30am and saw a couple waves of local boy Miguel Fortes and Rato..

I knew Cave will be good and from Coxos saw a couple nice one.

Had call Surfportugal boss and close friend Joao Valente and he came shot some shots..

Get ready, ewetsuits..helmet..and when i got on the rocks to paddle out the best thing in surf happened..

wind changed!!

Went back to Coxos.couples waves..Crazy Left couples better waves but worst wind and left really sad after saw a perfect Cave and don' t surf..
Well..
Fever is ok..this is the only good think of the day!
Nothing better than surf to make you feel better!

335*

RTP2 and RTPI open Portuguese tv interview

Sorry every one who doesn' t speak portuguese.
This is a interview for surftotal program at portuguese national tv last weekend(http://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/RTP2).
the link is from what happen on the tv.
minute 11:44.

https://vimeo.com/50126972#

Nazaré small kind

Eric...

Eric

Luciano..

Eric

Eric

Luciano

Alex

New home at São Julião, Portugal

Now i am thinking what to write from my last 2 days i understand how many things i did..

I am tired,hahah

Came from Caminha, north of Portugal tuesday night.

Got my new house keys from the old owner and lovely lady Filipa.

Didn' t have time to surf and just went to see Coxos and say hi to my friends.

Woke up 4 am cause i couldn' t sleep with my wife's voice in my head telling me that i need conect water, power, clean up ..

And more than that the forecast was good for Cave.

The most strong slab around and for sure always the best option to go.

Got at the car parking of Cave 7am..

Alex Botelho, Joao Macedo and Antonio Silva read and sad as me..cause was shit,hahah

Went to fix water and power..

After a hour lost or more on that little surf at "Bico"the fisrt peak of Coxos with Alex.

Nothing special except one nice wypeout on the best wave came to him..

Left the water and said hi to the judging crew of ASP that was hanging checking the waves .

One of them start to yell..

_Did you see that?That guy just went straight to the rocks!

I start to run and when i got there one friend of my from Italy was getting smahed on the rocks.

I wa s2 feet from him but could jump cause solid 6 feet white water was jsut to power to get him and go up the rocks..

After 20 min one of the waves send him to a more safer place but he could do nothing with one broken arm.

We went ther eand could get him.

One of the craziest thing i ever see and i am really happy he still here with us!!

God does exist!

Went back home, surf again at Sao Juliao where my new house is.

Woke up again 5 to go up to Nazaré.

Had some funny waves..

Washed the Pwc and now buying meat for a barbecue and to all my firend unload all the big truck that is coming with the family!!!

view from new house;

the front beach break at same day;

Ze friend, local and owner of surfboard factory;

Sao juliao same day...

....

Alex Botelho..came late afternoon.

Photos : Pedro Mestre local boy form Sao JUliao