Morning sickness

Morning sickness

Friday, September 21, 2012

New home at São Julião, Portugal

Now i am thinking what to write from my last 2 days i understand how many things i did..
I am tired,hahah
Came from Caminha, north of Portugal tuesday night.
Got my new house keys from the old owner and lovely lady Filipa.
Didn' t have time to surf and just went to see Coxos and say hi to my friends.
Woke up 4 am cause i couldn' t sleep with my wife's voice in my head telling me that i need conect water, power, clean up ..
And more than that the forecast was good for Cave.
The most strong slab around and for sure always the best option to go.
Got at the car parking of Cave 7am..
Alex Botelho, Joao Macedo and Antonio Silva read and sad as me..cause was shit,hahah
Went to fix water and power..
After a hour lost or more on that little surf at "Bico"the fisrt peak of Coxos with Alex.
Nothing special except one nice wypeout on the best wave came to him..
Left the water and said hi to the judging crew of ASP that was hanging checking the waves .
One of them start to yell..
_Did you see that?That guy just went straight to the rocks!
I start to run and when i got there one friend of my from Italy was getting smahed on the rocks.
I wa s2 feet from him but could jump cause solid 6 feet white water was jsut to power to get him and go up the rocks..
After 20 min one of the waves send him to a more safer place but he could do nothing with one broken arm.
We went ther eand could get him.
One of the craziest thing i ever see and i am really happy he still here with us!!
God does exist!
Went back home, surf again at Sao Juliao where my new house is.
Woke up again 5 to go up to Nazaré.
Had some funny waves..
Washed the Pwc and now buying meat for a barbecue and to all my firend unload all the big truck that is coming with the family!!!
view from new house;

the front beach break at same day;

Ze friend, local and owner of surfboard factory;


Sao juliao same day...

....

Alex Botelho..came late afternoon.
Photos : Pedro Mestre local boy form Sao JUliao

No comments: