Morning sickness

Morning sickness

Wednesday, February 21, 2018

Joao de Macedo

Couples years ago i was still chasing swells around the globe. Might be around 6 years ago..

Good friend from Ericeira, Diko Pires told me that i should visit another good friend of him who was living in Mavericks.
I was dreaming to go there and see closely that crazy slab.
(I wrote this whole story many post before, go check it searching  this in my blog :

Joao is hiring me now, in other words, give me a job driving the sky at Nazaré and doing his safety.
The main goal was do a good result at the contest. things did really went good.
In my eyes was even worst.
I need to say i was having a double check at Joao during his heat.

But i was so sure he was going right, well , even all the others competitors, cause the wind was strong and north, making the left super hard to take off .
Joao got this left and soon he took of i was at the others side at the end of the right already running at his direction.
I only saw the begining of the wave and i was 100% sure he didn´t make it.
When i got to him, i tripped.. i couldn´t see his eye , only blood spitting out..
i help him to go in the sled and run straight to the shore ( video here)

He defenily made me felt proud. i couldn´t believe he came back out..
with me that was still dealing to my way out to the line up with the jetsky ( check the post beafore this one and read how hard is to make trought at Nazaré.

3 days after this big swell showed up and he asked me if he couldn´t try to tow.
I told him i was going to Maya GAbeira early and after that yes, i could tow him.
Afternoon, tide came up and Alex Botelho with others guys start to paddle.
Joao got his paddle board and i did his rescue.
For 4 hours, not much happen.
One nice one, one wipe out and in the end of the session he paddle for this crazy one.
My view was this mutant lip almost breaking on him, that not sure how, back off right on the top of him.
made me remeber those view of Mavericks, when you see the barrel and the guy desapearing on the row.
Really stoked to him and this wave and how humble and warrior his is in the water and dealing to be a father of a boy at the other side of the atlantic.

Proud of you bro!

check world surf league interview of him :

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