Morning sickness

Morning sickness

Thursday, February 26, 2015

Monsters and beauties

Left home really early with s 9,6 and a tow board. 
Add my Billabong V1 wetsuit , water, fruits and pass by Bastiagueiro beach to pick up 3 friends that wanted to go on a mission.
Tripsurfgalicia owner , Rémi, was talking about this waves for a while and from no where, one guy from my facebook sent pics from the same area that I was suppose to go check.
Swell was a huge 27 feet 18 sec day.
Giant one. I knew the chance to see a proper wave wasn't that big. Winds were a bit north and all north of Galice needs a bit south( with the all time west in the middle).
We got there and was a nice beach break bay, with this big right breaking outside and some white water on the back massing out the long distance view.
Ask the local bar how to check beyond that area and after they gave India they laughs as any one when hear we looking for big waves.
From the top of the clif I saw this mutant wave taking some seconds to the lip hit the bottom.
I knew was really big and straight I felt alone. Wish Billabong adventure Crew was there. Or my friends seb, Tom, Andrew, Silvio,... All those guys that control the situation.
Checked another right breaking about 15 feet sets but decided to check this other spot first, cause was between this take of right or get some barrels,
Always like the barrel way. Next time I try to surf both.
Realise i did not have a small baord, only the big gun and the tow board and my friend left me a old 6,8 for the session.Thanks to him cause he did not surf for let me surf!
Legend!!!
The left was a beautiful set up. With little harbor, island , clean off shore ocean and a bunch of surfers that was all smiles.
Had a fun session and came back home happy to my family arms.
Thanks Ledicia for the pics.











No comments: