father of 2,
former elite world tour surfer,
2 x european pro champ,
european amateur tour champ,
Ireland big wave champ,
xxl biggest barrel finalist.
4 x spanish champ
5 x Galicia champ
Owner of surf school, Surfcamp, Bar, Hostel, Event organizer, Icon Brazilian jiu-jitsu team
Thursday, September 13, 2012
Like every year i try to visit my family in Brasil.
Last time i had surf this spot in the middle of Guanabara bay.The bay of Rio de Janeiro.
From where my family lives is down south or from Rio up north just crossing the long bay bridge.
I had miss first day of the swell caus ei though maybe the spot i had choose to paddle should be better.
The wave does a fast double up remind me a lot the spot of Galicia.
i tried to be very low and not going with the lip on the double up.
close to where the lip breaks..
on went right and i had a good fun ridding the wave.
hope come back in a bigger day.
thanks a lot to Tony D' andrea for the shot.
for Marcelo trekinho to put e on that wave and Guillerme Herdy.Old friends from the ASP tour that keep ripping waves on Brazil and the world.