Morning sickness

Morning sickness

Friday, May 4, 2012

Punta de Lobos,Pichilemu.Chile

just got in Punta de Lobos,Pichilemu, Chile and frst thing, srush and phone with airfrance.No boar yet and maybe arriving today.4 days after and no more swell.Find my old board that i left here last year.Bard that i brke before the heat training.I still reme,ber asking Greg Long, one of my idols:_Hey buddy, thing i have time to surf before the heat?he answered_for sure.  And i padleout dark time, got one nice one, got smashed and broke my only board.left this same board with one buddy that i met in France long time ago and lives here now,Paulista and i am stoked tha the is here , fixed the board and i could surf. Diego Medina lend me one wetsuit and gloves..
Easy padle out following local Brazilian guy who lives here and show me the way.15 years old and  a long future in front.

Punta de Lobos.End of one wave and stoked to be in the water withot my equipament

Firt day when i arrived was beautefull.Crazy sunset and maybe the biggest time of the swell.piss didn´t have a board.


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