Thursday, November 10, 2016

Thursday, November 3, 2016

Nazaré. Last big swell. Monday november ´16

Saw this nice west swell coming to Europe and knew will be a good one.
With that direction my first choice was Ireland.
Right the day I was going to go, everything ready with friends, video makers, surfer. The local federation call ON a contests and I needed to stay.
My students won under 12,under 18 and I won master and second on open division.
Found a new spot very similar to beach breaks at France.
  Contest finished 19 and Seb Studtner ask if I want to come down and work driving the sky.
5 hours down.
Got there 2 am.
6:45 first waves check.
8 I put him on this beauty.
One petty crazy double up right on first peak, by the rocks.
All day in the water and my views from the jet were :
Tom Lowe going for this one. That I even scream him to go.
Andrew Cotton chasing rights with Garret McNamara placing him right on the spot and with his amazing calling for waves.
Alex Botelho' s barriling right behind him.
And Jamie Mitchell right.
Drove back to Galicia cause have more work coaching to do.
Petty much keen to surf some next time.
With a rest before he he
Did not see Lucas Chumbo show.
But he killed it!
pics are:
Seb Studtner,
Alex Botelho and Brazilian rapper friend of mine Gabriel ö pensador¨. that showed up and had a taste of it

Wednesday, October 19, 2016


One of the best option leaving in Galicia for northeast wind is Ferrol.
cross off shore and must of the beacheas hits lots of swell.

Monday, September 19, 2016

Friday, September 16, 2016

Time to chenage the judges

I just checked all heats that everyone was talking about.
Start with wilko and Bred.
My point of view,
Tuff to judge with a bit more impressive turns for Bred, cause new school.
Gabriel vs Tanner was easy.
And the WSL just made a system that judges are against the wall .
All pro surfers that know about surf are on surveillance .
Ross Willians. BArton Linch.. many that knows about judgement more than the judges.
I think they should listen those pro surfers when they are in doubt.
Gab best waves was clear the best wave of the heat.
Maybe time to change all the judges and invite ex pro surfers to judge.

Wednesday, August 24, 2016

Gabriel ¨O Pensador¨ fan dedication

Last year when I had open the surfschool , I used to go a lot by the coast of Arteixo ( where the base is, Sabon), to train with my kids.
Many surfs by that area.
One of those days at Repibelo, I did one fun session on low tide behind the rocks at the left side of the beach ( ).
After the surf I met this red hair guy with a big smile.
He came by ask me what I was doing there , behind the rocks on such s big wave ( 4 feet hehe. This is for laughing Carlos).
He is been helping me on many things.
Made my logo( here on pic below),

and we in a project for Galicia. 
Last week when singer and brazilian famous rapper , Gabriel " o pensador", came to Galicia,many persons start to write and wanted to meet him.
Carlos wading of those.
He deal to have a time leaving his wife at home with some personal problems and came to Repibelo ( Gabriel o pensador instagram at ¨la Cueva¨
After tell how Fabriel s music change his life, gabriel offered Goma music at his concert.

Wednesday, August 17, 2016

Aguarium Finisterrae surf

Story behind a wave sometimes is simple.
Winter time at A Coruña.
Was cruising with my kids at the Aguarium Finisterrea and one of the gallery is right in front of the wave.
That one perspective is really gnarly as you only see rocks.
I wasn't really sure how far from the rocks were bit looks ridable .
Think that will not be a wave that I will go surf often.
If that one is good, many others might be way better.
The objective is make an event .
As the wave breaks in front of the Aguarium, by Hercules tower and ocean Coruña walk way front.
Could attack a big crow to watch the exhibition.
I am on it!
How will come thought! 
Big thanks to Sebastian Steudtner to come up from Nazare with his gear to have some fun.
Tanaka and his tnkvision company who is doing a great job on air and land.

Spanish tv interview:

Sunday, August 7, 2016

How good is your coach?

How good is your surfing coach?
I've been teaching for 1 year now.
Many will say , one year doesn't give you that much experience .
But what about my ocean experience back up?
This photo of my student here in front of my school at Sabon beach Arteixo, show a bit what I want to explain.
High tide ..
Not many option and both first day.
Saw this wave and on my way there I was the ting to put myself in their position.
Saw i decrypted every little detail of how the wave break it..
What to to in the end to don't hit the rocks..
Why there and not by the beach ( wind was more calm and the bottom of the wave more clean. Driving the soft board without change direction as the other places).
Will be posting soon my way to stand up on the board and why,

Sunday, July 31, 2016

Luis Diaz hard work pays off

Was at the Coruña contest couples weeks ago and many of my old friends were there.
One of than Julian Coelho used to live a bit in my house at Lanzarote and with my neighbour Juan ël moro¨.
We talked  alot caus ehe does many training with kids at Gran Canaria.
Took him to my house as him and another kid was needing a hand.
We did a training at my academy.
Julian showing all his knowledge with many differents excersises for progress your surf.
Most of than designed by him for reentrys and airs.
We did some heats with his kid and my student Juan Fernadez.
SHared some competition tip.
Following contest his main kid Luis Diaz got on erunner up at the Junior´s at Sopelana and now crowed the us open JUnior.
A contest the names like Rob Machado and Kelly Slater won back in the days.
Only one way to follow now.. the wqs tour and keep charging as he does at giant slabs .
Good job bros! 

Monday, July 18, 2016

Spanish champ

My focus is not competition for a while now.
But it is so rad when you decided to do something that you not doing for a while .
You out of your confort Zone.
And when things go wrong it is normal.. you not ready for that.. but it is always nice when things goes good.
I was the whole contest not even watching the ocean, cause my kids were all amping on a kids zone behind the contest area.
Really big thanks to Lola, that i met at the kids park and right before the final she showed up with many toyes that made my little one more easy..
My big one was alredy with her kid playing.
Really cool family as a the father is a windsurfer..
old kid a really good surfer and the cruise around on a camp van.
Surfing best beaches..
I did the wqs at Coruña right after that but wasn´t the same good vibe.
Waves were really bad and that really makes me feel like good waves is what makes surfers happier.

ROB Vaughan Surfboards

Thanks to Prado surd escola boys for the good vibe.
You can watch here at this clip:

Sunday, July 3, 2016


Tuesday, June 21, 2016


 I Was in Bali for a week.
 My partner and friend Sevastusn Steudtner invite me to go there so we could surf together and I could help him to progress his surf.
 Seb is on my eyes, the best tow surfer in the world,
Most of surfers get really unstable on a tow board when ocean is not clean , giant ( 60 feet plus) and condition is challenging .
 He is solid.
 I can put him on any wave that I know he will deal with it.
 On a opposite hand he did not grew up on the ocean. Start surf late and windsurfing ( I believe he is solid when he go fast cause that). Now, that he is surfing more and more , most of my tips are helping for generate speed using whole body.
 Uluwatu was our playground,
 We both got fit paddling and both stoked of a break from Europe.
 He was dealing with sponsor and TV, I was with my surfschool and my kids.
 Straight from there I flew to Dublin on this crazy Dempasar( Bali), Jakarta, Abudhabi,Dublin.
 Arriving in Dublin Henning Erlandsen was already there .

 always getting every thing ready for the big Nixon crew arrive.
Straight roads . Made our happiness and scariness ..
 Dublin to Spanish point, where back in the days the biggest navy assault of history from Spain on England end up on a disaster , when a storm destroyed the great amount of boat on this coast of Clare, Lahinch, Ireland.
 Waves were flat and we all decided to see Fergal's Smith farm. 
 On the beginning I though was a farm where you go grown your food and go back home.
 Not that one.
 Fergal is on a new ( old) way to live.
 He cultivated his on biological food, he lived on a tend and a bunch of friends start to follow him.
 A way full of love,
 Living from the earth to the earth.
Made think a lot of what you need to be happy in life and what your partner ( wife , girlfriend...) thinks of that way of life.
 We all helped him for many hours and he was stoked to see work from many days ( he doesn't have any machine at the farm), be made in a few ours.
 An amazing lunch with all organic products was a high light of the day,
 Salad, soup, cakes... 
 Second day waves still flat and a big part of the crew went for a sailing at the famous clif of Moher.
 2 guys stay to swim with Dusty, the local Dolphin who is always around the harbor.
 I stay hanging with Henning( nixon Europe ex owner who brought the brand to Europe).
 Have a bad ear infection from Bsli that was killing me.
 Same day we got the 3 hours road to Dingle. 
 Ferry on the way and amazing landscapes.
 Next day afternoon we move from Dingle to a local city close to the spot Cean Sibeal, where must of the latest Star Wars was made and even the last scene where she found Luke Skywalker on a empty island.
 Same we could see from the water surfing.
This little beach break full of wedges made our happiness and the vibe hype grew.
 Every one killing it!
 Need to tell that I was a bit more shocked from what this ozzy call Chippa Wilson could do it on those 2/3 feet waves.
 Best adjective must be from Kepa Acero to him "this guy is a bailarino.
 A ginastic acrobatic"
 He really was doing things that I even Did not know the name and after ask him many times I only get " party trick".
 We did a lot of road together and both talking how good was those old Billabong videos ( Bunyip dream as we were listening Chippa's song of it) or even Taylor Steele decade of videos.
 Back to Dublin, we all ate at this nice tailand restaurant called Opium.
 Bar and disco on the same place.
 Many went to party hard .
 Prize ceremony next day.
 Chippa won, off course .
 Many went to bed and many back to party.
 I did a little cruise with my friend Maria at Temples.
 Back to Galicia , to Coruña. 
 Will start a working summer teaching what I love, surf.

The only thing we are sure for our future is the death. And when will come our only happiness will be watch the past and make sure we did love enough. Not only the love to other person, but love on the daily life. The trust good things happens all the time and you have the sensibility to feel it.


Wednesday, June 8, 2016

Coaching pro to pro

Last week during the Nixon surf challenge i had many conversations with the group about how important is a coach.
Gony Z, Marlon Lipker, Jonathan G.. With around 30 and Charly and Marc around 25 was there..
We all was talking about Glen Hall coaching Matt Wilko and noe Bede coaching JhonJhon.
In Europe, Jeremy and Fredo Robin is the one top example, but why more and more yong surfers not looking for a ex top surfer for coaching.
someone that know same feelings of you.
Must of the time mini indecisions of a board or a tactic..but that could be a winning heat, contest or tittle.

Friday, April 29, 2016

Accidents , time to change?

First time I realise the world of surf has some weird things was long time ago.
I went to Hawaii on my late's teens. Right after I had move from Brazil to France.
I used to cruise a lot with Patrick Beven.
He is the one guy who told me to move as he is  French Brazilian as I am and was already in Europe.
Days in Hawaii were always with him at his sponsor's house beach front, where we could check waves all day long as much as the sunset, whales and all the amazing things hawaian days can offer.
One day I got there really early and pipe was empty.
I got my board and paddle straight to the peak.
Paul Patterson was the only guy at the line up with me and this beautiful 10 feet set came trough.
I was so stoked to see a perfect wave come in my way that I start to smile.
Next thing, crazy wipeout.
Should paddle way before and way stronger.
Touch the bottom on my stands, but the wave sucked me over the falls.
Hit the face first one the reef.
Like a punch.
Happy did not lost conscious.
Got the surface spray blood everywhere.
Run to Patrick's house who were recording ( we try to find the video but it's lost).
He was keep recording and checking and not saying nothing.
World champ Phil Razman, showed up and said I should go to the hospital.
Left his insurance card with me saying we both had big nose and I had just broke mine so should go through.
Well, really did.
Back to house Patrick laught saying my girls Hawaiian season was done. 
After I start to used helmet and was I realised how bad world surf media's kills you using helmet. Not passing photos any where.
I start to write this cause nowadays top WSL surfer Owen Wright is on a bad position to come back to his top surf level after touch the reef at Pipe.
Why is not a normal thing use the helmet like skater or other sport ?
I wish this will change!Owen Writgh

Aaron Gold

Tuesday, April 5, 2016

6 years old kid

saw this post on facebook and tripped.
Such an young age and already surfing that good.
i start to analyze why there is so many talents at the tropics .
Think must of all the water temperature and outside is the keen point.
Kids ( as much as adults), want to have a good time.
Adults are easier to wear a wetsuit and go out, but kids is not the same.
My daughter is 5 and i see on her how much she likes when is warm and sunny and when is cold( i don´t even take her on the middle of the winter, too cold).
Bring your kids to a surf trip on warm water!

Olha ai galera esse filme e um pouco dos meus treinos ,que venho me dedicando para as competições de 2016 ,agradeço a meus apoio e a galera que torce por mim OBRIGADO.
Posted by Victor Santos on Thursday, February 25, 2016

Tuesday, March 15, 2016

Respect ..

Not sure why people publish this things. Journal saying why world champ , local, drops one guy in the middle of 500 as Super bank is.. Man, he did even see no one paddling ... come one.. if was on Brazilian jiujitsu or any other hierarchy sport or life.. you are doing something wrong.
I remember this old guy there in Dbha.. right close to super bank..
THere was only rights and this guy paddle over him( i myself and 200 from the wqs contest back in the days), he only laught to the guy and said, you going left? i was with Miky Picon and we laught for weeks about that..
Mick Fanning is not old, but i am sure this guy behind him is not that old man i saw it.

Wednesday, March 9, 2016


Friday, February 26, 2016

Laurent Pujol videos

the Real friends you know they there. Those that you don´t need been calling them all the time like chicks rasseling.. they there when you pass by there house and knock theirs doors and say ¨what up¨and is like saw yesterday.
In France i have many of them..
Many others places too.. but just said France cause my buddy here Laurent Pujol is the cause of those lines.. as much as Patrick, Sancho, François, daze,..

Met Laurent long time ago during European pro tour..
He did the change to photo and now video maker.
Think he is always placing himself on some spots that only a true surfer as he is for be calm and shoot.

SHOWREEL 2016 - LAURENT PUJOL from Laurent Pujol on Vimeo.

Friday, February 12, 2016

V television interview

click on links :

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Galicia searching

I was at Lanzarote cause must of the time i stay half there half in Galicia during the winter.
Went i saw the forecast i was keen to comeback to try to town-in some of the biggest waves of the winter.
My friend Andrew Cotton change his plans on last second and decided to go up to Ireland( probily best option always as the waves the are the best big waves to surf..big clean and barreling)When i arrived in Santiago Sunday night i was always checking the forecast. My contact at MSW was helping me out with winds as much as François Liets as usual.
Not many otion was coming to my head with such a big swell and wind. My students got the road to Lugo as waves are always more protected from wind but smaller. I decided to stay at A Coruña. I had one option to surf in the middle of A Coruña bay or this wave here that i had try last year with my friends from Ledicia filming company.
Back than i knew could be better bigger cause the wave breaks close to the rocks and bigger ¨safer¨could be.
I paddle out right went the biggest of the swell was fill in. I already new was way bigger cause the paddle out was way more waves and withe water than the first time.Waves were breaking more far from the rocks and with a such big swell i knew i could get with lucky one really big one.
 straight away i got this wave here and felt really confortable on my 10´6¨Rob Vaughan ( we have been making boards for many years now and his big one has a different rails than other shaper and i am more and more confortable o it)
Right after the first wave many cars of police and firemens as much of local civil protection service start to arrive.
I was at the line up checking the sets, positioning myself and checking them.
I know how much work they have on this days. And have many friends who work on it. And is Carnaval. Wasn´t keen to give any problem.
" cars left and i thought they will let me stay and i could concentrate myself for next set.
Right before a big set fill in the firemans make me signs to leave.
I screw that big set, as i wasn´t at the right place.
With a such long perieod swell , sets takes long time to come and i wasn´t really calm to wait and give trouble to anyone.
So i smooth paddle back to the small beachlauching spot.

Cops and firemens was waiting for me.
They told about the risk. they ask me if i will be back, i said yes and they told me to call before i surf next time.
I ask with i could go back to water but no.
Spot is there and will be many more paddling session there.
One option on giant swells and no need of PWC.
Thanks Eva Díez and TNK vision for be there shooting.

Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Big wave medsea mission

Quemao class 2016

Thanks for the amazing word of Radical surf mag about i start to surf the spot on low tide.
appreciate it.
Congratulations to Dimitri Ouvré.
I heart myself on this wave rolling in my back inside the barrel.
Check feature at :

Monday, January 11, 2016

Monsanto killing us

I just arrived home in Lanzarote when my friend came to me saying the owner of his house was sparying Roundup (     ) everywhere.
Next day i went to ask at the local place the helps all farmers ( and giving away this really bad pesticide).
My goal is do a eco agriculture in my land and i went to ask for the stamp of eco food.
The lady said i only need to pay 35 euros and one fiscal will come to see what kind of growing process i was using.
I ask what about if i used anything before.
the answer was not what i expected, as they don´t care if you use any products before.
Roundup, used for clean all ¨bad¨things growing could be used and they don´t care..
All peoples who is buying bio thinking they buying a good food was wrong..
watch uot!