Wednesday, December 2, 2020

First swell 2020

First swells Every season drives you on a full excitement . It is this feeling for every big wave surfer. Too many months of small waves up here at the north hemisphere and on a covid year with not much travel allow must didn’t get any big waves for months. For me was a successful summer with a lot of peoples happy having surfing lessons at Aftersurf Bastiagueiro. I have the pleasure of give must of the classes and saw a progression on many kids and adults. When I went down to Nazaré , there wasn’t a clear swell on maps and was all about a Icon jiu-jitsu black belt graduation . Something really special with many friends who were teaching me this art like Alex Isidro, Vinicius Constantino, Sergio Vita, Bruno Sales , Alan Brandâo , my great long time surf friend Joao Gutemberg and their partners.
Had miss master Ze Marcello on this occasion that could made it cause covid restriction from England. Thank you Nazaré tow for made me do this graduation at the light house with a spa cual thanks to Pedro Pisco. Nazaré water fun and Perfect waves. Must photos from Patricia and video from Xurxo. Right at the end of this amazing days a huge swell showed up on charts. The talk at the harbor was all about it. Teams were firing up and organizing their rescue logistic with a certain stress. First one and a massive one. I had an surf with Garret Mcnamara and Andrew Cottom. Was keen to stay to surf with them and had a talk with the 2 times women Guiness récord Maya Gabeira and legend European big wave surfer Seb Steudtner. But I had a plan to surf “ Las Rubias” an outside wave at Galicia before Nazaré. As usual the impact of the swells from America with hit up here ando wanted to surf here at Coruña and after come down. I offered to both teams this deal of help me surf big here and come down after but nobody want. So I asked an advise to long time friend Lino Bogalho from Nazaré water fun to what to do and he did a great support of push me to come up. Why? My business Aftersurf is here and a big wave surfer here could be great for a new option for big wave riders. Coruña just had agree in collaboration with us, Aftersurf to organize an big wave event and a big wave could give one more push to open the eyes of the country and the world wide media for this area. Decisión take I had the lucky of have Cedric Gisco from France and his crew coming my way.
Got all my partners from Aftersurf helping up with the logistics . 5 am call to start at dark. Launched all Yamaha PWC at the Porto náutico de Coruña and we drove all the way to south by ocean . Had an amazing view of Hercules light tower and arrive at O Portiño. Was a bit slow the waves and I start surf. Got a couples waves and Pass the rope to Cedric. When I got back to the rope Cedric was really tired from all the driving coming driving from France the day before and we decide to get out of the water. The follow week a big group of “ Brazilian nuts” came visit me. The main goal was surf around O Portiño paddling, where will held the next big wave constest , corme to surf the slab of A Tremosa and the slab back here in Coruña in “ smallers” days. Check all photos and videos and comments about swells and logistic .

Saturday, August 29, 2020

Zarautz - mundial de surf 1998

I had won the event in Argentina excess was my first year on the world surf circuit. After the South American leg that had done a good result in Argentina, but nothing special in Peru. Since in Brazil he had been run over and left out of the canoe capon event. Event that right now I just remember being run over. To have done a Duck dive and left my foot out of the water and that foot cost a hole in a beginer's beak that would have run over me if I hadn't been submerged. Or almost submerged. I went to Australia and nothing too. All events in the first round. From Australia I only remember dyeing my hair blue and going surfing. When he got out of the water, we went to mcdonalds and Fabio Goveia laughing at me at Horácio I didn't know how green he was. Until he told me to go to the bathroom. The paint had melted and turned all green. Modern phone-free times! No Instagram! I arrived in Europe passing only one battery in France in a giant sea. An incredible surf in Mundaka. Alongside legends like Bruce Irons. Zarautz was incredible. I don't remember where I stayed, but it moved well. A perfect firming bullet and I always stayed behind hoping for the best. Nowadays I regret the interference I put in the place, Eneko. I would have qualified this year and put an interference on the Brazilian evil. They were just rights. Nas I deny him inside the peak and I went to the left. Very good memories. Thanks Whohoo, for currently reposting on Instagram. Tinha ganho o evento na Argentina excesso foi meu primeiro ano no circuito mundial de surf. Depois da perna sul americana que tinha feito um bom resultado na Argentina, mas nada de especial no Peru. Já que no Brasil tinha sido atropelado e ficado de fora do evento de capão da canoa. Evento que agora mesmo só lembro de ser atropelado. De ter dado um Duck dive e deixado o pé de fora da água e esse pé custou um buraco de um bico de um beginer que teria me atropelado se não tivesse submerso. Ou quase submerso. Fui a Austrália e nada também. Todos os eventos no primeiro round. Da Austrália só me lembro de pintar o cabelo de azul e ir surfar. Quando sai da água, fomos ao mcdonalds e Fabio Goveia rindo de mim a Horácio eu não sabia quebrantava verde como o hulk. Até que me disse decir ao banheiro. A tinta tinha derretido e ficado a cara toda verde. Tempos sem telefone modernos! Sem Instagram ! Cheguei na Europa passando só uma bateria na França em um mar gigante . Um surf incrível em Mundaka. Ao lado de legends como Bruce Irons. Zarautz foi incrível. Não lembro onde fiquei , mas mexeu bem. Una bala decfireira perfeita e eu sempre ficava mais atrás esperando as melhores. Hoje em dia me arrependo da interferência que meti no local, Eneko . Teria se classificado nesse ano e coloquei uma interferência na maldade brasileira. Eram só direitas. Nas nego ele dentro do pico e fui para a esquerda . Muito boas recordações. Obrigado Whohoo, por repost actualmente no Instagram.

Wednesday, April 1, 2020

live 3 Michel Bourez

Met Michel long time ago. when he was on his first year on was tour and I was giving a term on my surfing competition career on normal waves and giving a go on big waves

live 2 Jeremy Flores

Interview with Jeremy, I record after the interview my live with the iPhone and didn’t end up good. So, I make a writing resume. Had met Jeremy, long time ago when he was a 9 years old kid. And back in that time, there was events in Reunion island. And for him, see all those pros, was a extra push to become prone the future. I had ask if he lardy could see him on that level. And he answered that not really but already saw a way to live and be a professional surfer, seen all those surfers. HIs father helped a lot him on that way. With a vision on how good he will be. Bring him all over the globe. Pushing him all the time. Between laughing and good talking memories, he talked about how confident he was when qualified and his amazing 8th in the world rock of the year. Think the highlight was talk about Andy Irons and how after went to his ceremony at Kauai , his approach at pipe was always think about him and how Andy will act if was him in competition situation. Famous to be super aggressive. That make him too get to the final and in the last second he was sure, someone sent him a wave to win his first pipe master. He did again after, in 2017 and beat the favorite and reign world champ, jhonjhon Florence. More title we talk was with Gabriel Medina and his victory in Tahiti. On good conditions , they battle was priority and Gabriel end up coming back to the peak set came and he started with a 9,…something and won.. on the same game Gabriel plays. Send prays for our good friend Leo Neves. And We all send lover and hope for those on Covid 19 virus time.

Tuesday, March 31, 2020

Live one Icon bjj Swiss interview Eric Rebiere and Davi Ale

The idea of start this the idea of start some lives came from Anderson Pereira. A black belt icon jiu-jitsu that ask me if I want to do a live with him. I accept and think that will be cool if I could do a live with some friends and have some of the best surfer as a friend I really love to what started. cause was a way to think of good memories with than. here if the first one with Icon Jiu-jitsu team Swiss . Professor Anderson Pereira and Davi Alexandre who is staying on my house and got locked here in this tuff times that are happen with the whole world.

Friday, March 20, 2020

Nazaré Wipeout

One of those things that you might think twice to say yes. But as I always did on big surf, since back in the days at Romulo’s house in Hawaii.
I just say yes and go.
I get say that for me this event was a personal victory.

Get over a really complicated time in my life , where I need to deal with a sharing guard for my kids that became a wild lawyer situation with an investigation to myself till this day , based on things that the mother of my kids is been saying.
Thing that when I had a resolution in my head in how to act with all this. Life became simple. Values became strong.
For sure I had put more sport in my life, but 1,5 month ago before event start, I hurt my shoulder fighting Jiu-Jitsu and was tuff to keep doing everything.
Had a great sport psychology sessions with Maria Augusta that really gave my sone set up points.. points to start and be motivated.
When that avalanche hit my back. I was on this moments that life stopped.
First impact was something unreal strong. Send me all over !! Second I couldn’t believe, I’ve never saw the size of the brown/white water like that in from of me.
I just said : God, my life was good but I still want to come back to my kids.
As soon I had think of them ( my kids) the monster impact hit me and even if was as strong as the first one, I was calm. Really calm in fact. 
Daisy to reach the sand.. I only thought about go to the sand have a break and breath.
No strength at all to pick up the sled. And after many tour I could.
PWC came after many waves and that really killed my energy.
Had a breath on the beach. Some oxygen and went to the harbor to change CO2 for the inflation vest.
Went back out, but my energy wasn’t the same. 
Had to try ! Need to try and let’s see what I could do going back. 
And for sure, the strength on my legs wasn’t the same.
Got 2 and drove Sancho to the end of the contest. 
Big congrats to the girls.
Maya Gabeira and Justine DuPont were killing it and charging!! Surfing as good as the men crew.

Part 2
My feedback for this 1st edition is that was a really good edition if our Alex Botelho and Hugo Vau , didn’t have their accident.
Sure Alex was on a way worst situation and I doubt that if was somebody else , could survived.
Alex is a strong kid and really used to paddle monster Nazaré and get smashed all the way to the beach. Think this is what really made posible to got all that time he was unconscious and filling his lungs with salt water .
Alex is recovering now and out of risk.
No damaged ! More important thing.
Thank you to his lovely lady Celeste and Dr Axel to give me news from him.
Now, on my eyes, what should change :

1 : security first

On a contest that is called “ tow” , for the security gets on a high level, I think the team should be a team where both really need to back up his partner, to make sure they have all set up on this area. Training a lot and on no space for mistake.
We all know that every teams only go out with 2 PWC for training.
1 spotter 
So , first change could be teams of 3, where all need to surf , drive and rescue or 2 surfing and one rescue as usual. But their full year team. 
The WSL could only deliver 2 to 4 really good drivers with experience at Nazaré and one of than with a swimmer behind.
In case needs to jump as Alemão de Maresias did with Alex, not able to pick him on the top of the PWC.

2- teams

Should be teams represent their sponsor and sponsor that are putting all needs for surfers train all year for that day.
What will change is the possibility to teams being more and more together.. training together and get on the level of the moto gp.
Saw many webs going against the event and the dangerous this is.
Come on!
We ready to go!
What we need is more support from sponsors to be more and more prepared.

3- competition format 

Think heats with a clear score is the best way to go.
Expression session with a video that not everyone was in. Is a difficult way to make a champ. To support and coverage all team with the attention they give.

4- technology 
For end up I think a safety drone or even the live drone, should have a different color and a way to make smoke or another sign that make sure the drive get to the surfer , he could know where the surfer is and if is a tuff call .