Sunday, February 27, 2022

Nazaré 25/02/22

Nazaré big day Fev 25/2/22 Em casa em Bastiagueiro na bicicleta tentando recuperar a firma física. O inverno tinha dado um parão e voltou com força total. Nos primeros push o oleaje ando vindo de noroeste. Como alguns surfistas participaram do último Nazaré tow Challenge, decidi lançar o Coruña big waves en seguida e aproveitar os surfistas aqui do lado , na rainha das ondas grandes. Muito trabalho e correria para que não falhe nada na organização e campeonato para frente ( ler mas detalhes no post anterior). Ao acabar o evento Michelle des Bouillons, Ian Consensa e Ulisses Pereira subiram comigo a Illa Pancha. Fiquei super contente , já que o evento esse ano é On-line e no melhor swell do ano, vários surfistas estavam com covid e não puderam ir. Já com a sessão do outro dia , vamos colocar mais ondas bem surfadas na competição. Antes de subir a Illa vimos o swell gigante da Nazaré. Eu sinceramente andava muito cansado. Campeonato de Nazaré, organização do evento ( onde dormimos 4 h cada noite antes do dia por 4/5 dias). Mas disse a Ian e Michelle que desceria para ajudar. Tenho plena consciência de que eu estando na mar eles ficam mais seguro e desci com a pura intensão de colocar eles em ondas e ajudar nos resgates. Demoramos a entrar e ficamos olhando o mar da casa do casal de frente para a praia do norte. Michelle foi a primeira na corda e abriu o mar para o nosso time com uma bomba pra esquerda. ( fico deendo a foto dela) Eu peguei duas ondas em seguida, nada de muito especial.
Eric Lisas mas muito Branca e sem muito double up. Essa primera fase puxava Ian e eu no resgate. Macedo foi para corda comigo puxando e Ian no resgate. Perdeu a prancha ( como sempre macedinho kkk). Em seguida puxei o Ian e até aquele momento para mim a onda mais bonita do team.
Ian - eu no jet Um A frase perfeito que vimos de baixo e entramos nela de lado. Tudo perfeito. Bruninho foi para corda sendo puxado pelo Ian e também acabou perdendo a prancha . Em seguida foi o jovem surfista Ulisses Pereira . Tinha acabado de surfar Illa Pancha conosco e ia debutar em Nazaré. A primeira caiu na corda. Cheguei perto dele e disse de saltar os bumps na técnica e em seguida Ian escolheu uma das melhores ondas do dia para ele. Uma direita perfeita. Lisa. Das ondas que eu gosto mais!! No final da descida, logo no momento do bottom, “ tropeço “ e caiu para gente e começou a rodar com o lip. Eu sabia que ia ser caldo grosso. Rodar sempre é um dos piores caldos. Subiu e antes de pegar ele , veio outra e caiu na cabeça.
Ulisses - Ian no jet ( Ian gritou : Aguenta ai moleque) Sabia que tinha de pegar e quando subiu eu estava do lado dele. Ele subiu no sled e não sei como, ao passar a primera onda, ele já não estava. Tinha caído sem forças para aguentar segurar no sled . Voltei e vi Ian e Lourenço na ação . Lourenço pegou ele lá perto do inside. Deixamos ele na praia e voltamos a ação. Macedo voltou a corda e foi o highlights da equipe.
Joao de Macedo Coloquei ele em duas muito boas e em seguida Bruninho pegou na corda.
Bruninho Coloquei ele em outra esquerda e depois disso veio as perguntas que eram : surfo ou descanso? Venho de muita ação por dez dias e acabei amarelando e decidindo guardar meu corpo. Vem onda aqui para o Portiño e fiquei com vontade de pegar uma irada remando. Decidi descansar dois dias e voltar a ação por casa. Aloha! Éric

Coruña Big Waves 1

Intro Anos atrás quando conheci a galega ( galega da Galícia), que acabou sendo a mãe de 2 de meus filhos , Kai e Uma, meu único objetivo era surfar slabs. Vinha seguindo a tendência do Irlandês Fergal Smith e do Inglês Tom Lowe é só pensava nisso. A “ Tóxica” era e é minha onda favorita em Coruña. Uma onda seca e para esquerda. Como eu gosto! Descoberta por bodyboarders locais e que até hoje são os que mais surfam a onda. Em uma de essas expedições, competamos a colocar o jet pelo Porto do Portiño. Algum desses dias o mar estava grande e foi quando comecei e ver o Banzai Coprinos. Uma onda para esquerda muito parecida com punta de Lobos no Chile ( nos dias de ondulação bom ). Já tinham me falado bastante da onda de Coprinos. Uma onda seca perto da pedra. Já tinha ido ver mas não me pareceu tão boa como a Tóxica. Nunca surfei aí até hoje. Já a outra onda, comecei a ir sozinho treinar. As tendências mundiais do big surf eram só remada e sempre entrava com meu gun surfar e colocar a prancha no pé. Depois de anos um grupo liderado por Grant Baker veio surfar a onda. Liderados por um amigo fotógrafo de Vigo , eles me ligaram e disse obedecerá a onda ( vídeo em YouTube, não me lembro o nome). O evento A proximidade da costa e o fato do público conseguir ver bem a onda são factores importantes para fazer um evento de surf. Venho organizando eventos a algum tempo. Idealizei o evento Quemao class, o illa Pancha Challenge é uma realidade e achei que ali era um lugar privilegiado. Quando Juan Fernández veio começando a colocar tempo em ondas grandes e se tornou campeão Espanhol, fiquei pensando que já não há um circuito mundial de ondas grandes e sería interesante que novos atletas como ele e sua geração pudessem ter essa opção profissional. A secretaria de esporte Era verão quando chamamos Monica Martinez a vir olhar a onda. Entrei pelas pedras e depois de surfar algumas ondas, ela e meu sócio em aftersurf que também olhava a sesso estavam decididos. Aquí se faz evento . Esse apoio de Monica foi o que fez abrir as portas ao ayuntamiento de Coruña. Uma aposta sega que depois de meses e meses de reunião com nosso grupo de aftersurf, finalmente se materializou. Minha crítica pessoal como surfista profissional : vamos trabalhar para estar pronto tudo para setembro com os primeiros swells de outono. Vamos colocar um barco no canal para a Segunda pra chá dos atletas e comida aos pilotos das motos como gasolina para estás. Vamos pouco a pouco transformar a zona de público em um evento como nosso vizinho Pantin e assim terem opções em terra de estar o dia inteiro confortável .
Juan Terán _ la ola del evento y campeón de España

la toxica - primeros surfistas

Raul Barbeito en la foto ( descubridor de la toxica jutno a Joaquin Hervada) El motivo numero uno de hacer este post es para valorizar la educación. Raul me ha escrito, comentndo el error de los medios al relatar que soy el primero a surfear en la toxica. yo sé, todos saben que eso no es verdad. la semana pasda estaba a tope de trabajo par arealizar el primero Coruña big wave junto con el ayuntamiento de Coruña. El grupo de afersurf sl y con la colaboración de las federaciones. entre tantas entrevistas salio en prensa algo equivocado, de que habia surfeado en la toxica por primera vez. algunos surfistas locales me etiquetaron, algunos con hasta una falta de respeto, con bromas . pero dentro de estos los que mas rescpeto y conosco de mucho tiempo son los hermanos Avilar y llamé a Fran, comentando los que habia pasado y que claro, no habia dicho nada de eso. Fran, con su clase total directamente me ha dicho de pasar d ecomnetarios, de seguir trabajando y fui elogiado por el por seguir con mi trabajo profesional. vi muchos otros posts, mas acabé pasando, calro no habia mucho mas que decir. Raul , con sus palabras abajo, muy educado, me comentó todo eso que podeis leer. y espero que con eso, la parte que le gusta hacer bromas , que me escriba directamente. muchos lo hicieron y muchos diceron gracia spor contestarles y sacaron sus post. sobre todo los que ya me conocen, soo hay que escribir y preguntar. aloha! Eric Tóxica Hola Eric, me llamo Raúl Barbeito, seguramente no me conozcas, el motivo de mi mensaje es que es la segunda vez que veo en prensa que has descubierto la tóxica, como bien sabes eso no es cierto, Yo viví toda mi vida muy cerca de la ola e iba de pequeño con mi padre a mariscar y pescar allí( al igual que a coprinos) En ese tiempo tendría unos 9 años, con 15 años comencé a practicar bodyboard y en el 97 Iván piñeiro y yo surfeamos por primera vez coprinos, Al igual que el 6 de diciembre de 1998 Joaquin Hervada, Iván Piñeiro y un servidor ( Raúl Barbeito) surfeamos por primera vez la Tóxica, Sería un detalle que en próximas ocasiones nos tengas en cuenta. Un saludo. Me acuerdo perfectamente como vi la Tóxica rompiendo por primera vez allá por año 92, en el 96 empezé a observarla ya con intención de surfearla y JAMAS podré olvidar como el 6 de diciembre de 1998,mié tras Iván Piñeiro y Yo nos cambiamos para entrar ,Joaquín Hervada ,ya en el agua,se bajaba la primera ola surfeada en aquel entonces llamado BENS, posteriormente le llamaríamos el SPOT y finalmente Carlos Álvarez en su la primera publicación de la ola en una revista la bautizaria como LA TOXICA,nombre con el cual la conociste. Siiii,sería genial que lo pudieses en tu blog, yo creo que así quedaría el asunto zanjado ,me encantaría sobretodo por mi padre ENRIQUE BARBEITO,que el fue quien me llevo de pequeño allí y después paso todo el resto, gracias y un saludo Te paso estas fotos por si las quieres poner en el blog, soy yo Raúl Barbeito fotografíiado por Carlos Álvarez en la Tóxica. Lo dicho Eric, lo que te escribo arriba es la verdadera historia de la Tóxica, un abrazo y cuando te vea me daré a conocer😘😘 Get Outlook for iOS

Monday, February 14, 2022

world surf league Nazare tow challenge II and III

Nazare tow Challenge II Está foi a segunda edição do Nazaré tow Challenge. E também a segunda etapa no mundo do surf nesta categoria de ondas gigantes tow-in. Avante cem outros eventos de tow no mundo mas não vinculados a WSL. O Evento na Austrália em Hours. O Illa Pancha Challenge em Ribadeo. E antes disso por volta do ano 2000( não lembro o ano), aconteceu o Jaws contest que Ganhou Rodrigo Monstro com Garret Mcnamara. Eu participei esse ano com a Maya Gabeira, duas vezes e actual recordista da maior onda do mundo no livro dos recordes : Guiness book. Só surfei na primeira bateria pois na segunda Maya poderia ter ganho da francesa Justine Dupont e como só precisava de 3,5 pontos, disse a ela de pegar uma, fazer os 3,5 e eu surfar. Infelizmente coloquei ela em uma bomba no primeiro pico que acabou arrebentando na cabeça dela e gastando sua energia. O pico realmente mais insano de Nazaré, já que é onde concentra toda a força do canhão da Nazaré. Depois analizando todas as ondas dos atletas , acredito que os juízes não julgaram muito bem. O critério em ondas pequenas é de executar manobras na parte mais crítica da onda. Se levas esse critério as ondas grandes, poderíamos dizer que : o lip é a parte mais crítica das ondas. Essas manobras no lip são as que mais dão pontos em ondas pequenas. Então se a manobra do lip é a mais radical , nas ondas gigantes teríamos de ver um acréscimo muito grande a bottom turns. Por que? Porque é onde vai impactar o lip. Quanto mais for buscar o surfista o bottom abs maiores ondas por atrás do suposto “ pico “ das ondas , mas pontos deveriam ter. Depois está claro que o que consegue fazer este bottom é ainda executar alguma manobra, deveria de ser pontuado com melhores notas. Qualquer outra pergunta, deixa una mensagem no Instagram @ericsurfer e conversamos a respeito . Nazaré tow III Vinha de ir a Madrid de um fim-de-semana em família de muita emoção. Anunciava que íamos ter um filho. Minha esposa Laura e eu a família dela que ainda não sabia. Coloquei os pés em Coruña e já desci no dia seguinte a Nazaré. Cheguei na terça e comecei a preparar o jet e minhas pranchas. Rodrigo Koxa, meu parceiro nesta edição , chegou na quarta a tarde , dia seguinte . Entramos na água e poucas vezes vi a água tão bonita em Nazaré. Cristal clear! ( ) Koxa pegou várias! Eu só peguei uma , porque esqueci de apertar os parafusos de minha prancha.
O evento começou e nossa dupla foi para agua na bateria 2. Koxa começou surfando e depois da terceira onda fui eu. Peguei duas esquerdas e fiquei falando para descer mais para o inside. A maré estava cheia e depois de muito tempo ele desceu e me colocou em uma irada. Mas já não estava valendo. Comecei surfando a segunda bateria e pequei uma direita irada. Olhando as imagens, poderia ter finalizado melhor, mas deu tantas voltas no mundo das redes sócias o wipeout, que também valeu a pena. Espero estar sempre bem fisicamente para os próximos eventos. Muitos se machucaram outra vez. Como Antônio Silva e Jaime Mitchell. Tenho uma idade que espero seguir surfando ondas grandes mas sem nenhuma contusão seria. Neste evento. Objetivo cumprido. Aloha! Obrigado a Nazaré Water fun e Perfectwaves pela estrutura em Nazaré e Rodrigo Koxa por ser meu parceiro. Image.jpegImage.jpegImage.jpegImage.jpeg

Wednesday, November 10, 2021

Weslley Dantas e Wiggolly Dantas mal julgados

Dantas mal julgados - competição surf O mês de outubro eu passei uma grande parte com os irmãos Dantas. Desci desde aftersurf em Coruña e fui até Ericeira buscar os dois que estavam competindo no Challenge series de Portugal . Passaram uns dias surfando por Coruña. Treinando jiu-jítsu comigo e depois de uns dias subimos a França. O fato mais marcante foi Wesley não sair do quarto com a namorada Taikiri. 20 anos são 20 anos kkkk Em França , meu amigo James Breescot tem uma bonita casa no golf de Chiberta e nos alojou com ele. Fizemos a estrada para Hossegor e eu tive de voltar de última hora A Coruña ( só para passar o fim-de-semana). O evento começou com Wiggolly e eu na minha percepção de julgamento achei que na última onda ele virava a bateria. Saiu da água perguntando e disse que que achava. Achei as duas manobras bem limpas e fortes e que deveriam ter dado muito mais scores. Já por parte de Weslley, gravei a única onda boa que tinham colocado na web e coloquei algumas imagens minhas. Comparamos todas as ondas ( sem ter a finalização da segunda que não está e m nenhum lado). Resultado : nunca perdería a bateria! Wiggolly e eu demos 9 na onda é os juízes 5,6. Uma das piores baterias em termos de julgamento que vi e o mais estranho nem Weslley nem eu conseguimos entrar para ver a bateria agora. Todas estão no ar menos a dele . Quem conseguir ver, avisa!

Wednesday, July 7, 2021

Coruña slab : La toxica surf by surf Europe

Eric Rebiere Adjuntos mar, 6 jul 11:35 (hace 21 horas) para mí Tóxica Antes de escrever desta onda incrível, começo comentando que vou sempre escrever no blog em português. Tinha o hábito de fazer em inglês, mas as traduções estão muito boas nos dias de hoje e escrevendo na minha primeira língua o vocabulário e a forma de expressão aumentam. Vim em busca de ondas na Coruña, em 2009. Já havia estado várias vezes por vir ao Pantin desde ‘97. Mas A Coruña em busca de onda. Essa foi a primeira vez. Tinha já decidido de parar minha carreira de competidor e estava atrás de novas ondas e assim novos conteúdos para minha moça mudança de objetivos na carreira como freesurfer . Entrei no carro em Hendaie, onde vivia na casa de meu velho amigo David Masa, el txitxu, direção Coruña a casa da minha ex mulher que na época só queria visitar, dar uns pegas e pegar altas ondas ( hoje tenho dois filhos com ela e uma relação horroriza). Cheguei de madrugada e claro, namoramos bastante tempo. Pela informação que me havia dado o antigo representante do meu patrocinador de pranchas, na época, Tanaka , a onda só funcionava de maré seca. Isto não seria tão cedo e al final, fiquei namorando até tarde. Acordei junto com ela cansado. Ela ia trabalhar em Inditex e eu tentar surfar a nova onda. A vista ao ver a onda de cima doa falésia não era a mais apetitosa. Um “ buracão “ enfrente das pedras. Fui descendo e observando a onda já vestido com o wetsuit e cada passo mais perto do nível do mar, maior ficava o mar. Acha que estava 4 pés de cima e ao chegar no local para pular das pedras, estava 10. Algunas series fechavam toda a mini baía em uma só parede. Um só close out. Peguei umas 3 ondas ( vídeo abaixo ) e sai da água brigando contra a corrente do mini canal que ajuda a entrar. Ao chegar na pedra o local , “ pasteleiro “ , estava pronto para pular. Disse para não ir que estava perigoso z. Não me escutou , claro e se jogou na agua . Ao não calcular bem o tempo das séries, pulou na hora de algumas ondas grandes que arremessou ele direto as pedras expostas na frente da zona de “ take-off “. Depois de duas ou três ondas , desapareceu no paredão da falésia. Tanaka estava desesperado . Eu triste . Tinha perdido meu amigo Malik ( tahitiano morto com 25 anos afogado em Pipeline ) e fiquei dando mil voltas na cabeça . Começou a chegar polícia e derrepente aparece “ pasteleiro “ , depois de uns 15 min ou mais desaparecido , escalando a falésia . As ondas jogaram ele rm uma gruta e aí conseguiu escalar e se salvar . Depois dessa vez voltei a tirar fogos com meu grande amigo Alex Laurel . O reportagem seguinte é de algumas “ trips “ diferentes e alguns surfistas extraordinários ! Actualmente vivo em Coruña e essa é uma das minhas ondas favoritas . fotos de Alex Laurel

Sunday, June 20, 2021

safety on big surf


 Safety on surf After many lives were lost in a sequence of tragedies on big waves, the surf industry started to make flotation vests that would enable a surfer to surface before the next wave hits. Sounds simple! There is only one problem. The surfer needs to pull the cord under the water. “Blow the vest on his own “ Easy? Sounds easy. The reality is that the surfer needs to be in shape, fit, trained and have some luck as well. Two stories will follow! Both at Nazaré. The biggest and heaviest wave in the world. French-Brazilian surfer Eric Rebiere was talking to his partner during the session. More a discussion than a talk. Why? Details of how to drive. The main thing about surfing the worlds biggest waves, is that the driver is as important as the surfer. He is the one that selects the wave and hopefully puts you at the perfect place on it. The right spot at the right speed. And if you don’t fall, the driver is the one that picks you up before another wave reaches you. If you fall, it is a totally different scenario. The surfer can surface anywhere and even if someone has a radio to hand and a perfect view from the top of the cliff, it is rare the the driver will have time to figure out where you are and reach you before the next one hits. And what happens is this: “You feel the speed of the jet ski on your board. You know your going fast and you can take any wave you want. Your last moments doubt to go or not go is when you still have the tow rope in your hands. As soon you let go you have two options: find more speed in different zones of the wave with more risk or follow the same line the PWC driver placed you and hope your lucky enough to have the speed to avoid the wave breaking on you. On this specific case I didn’t have a chance to choose my line. We came from way deep and fast. Board was flying! The irregular surface combined with the speed was making the board vibrate a lot. My concentration was on not falling and making sure my stance stayed strong and held. It Looked like the take off was almost ending and it was time to change the line to the wall when the hit came. Such a heavy impact that it is hard to describe. Body goes all over and you don’t roll.  Not like a small wave. You get spit out to the sky at the same time you loose body coordination. Your still in this mutant washing machine when you realize that you need to pull the vest. How? Not sure. Wait? When? You focus on your arm strength against the wave strength as you try to reach the vests little string cord. You know its somewhere, but where is it? Somewhere. Time goes. The Wave still has the same intensity. Same powerful body washing machine. And you don’t know to be afraid of God or ask for his help. LOL. You finally reach the string on the vest and you pull. Nothing happens. Your still rolling and going deeper up and down. Seconds feel like minutes and you think that the vest hasn’t worked. If it had, you would be up and not up and then drawn back down. In a second there is one last punch and a small break from the wave. You feel a hand forcing you up fast. Really fast. As you shoot up out the water you realize that all 4 CO2 canisters have blown. Your fully inflated and can barely breathe with the pressure of the vest on you. Its over! The driver will pick you up No! Nobody will pick you up. Your somewhere nobody can reach you. The second wave may not break where the wave of the set breaks. If you picked up the wave at the normal spot and not way outside as it was a huge one. Your right in the impact zone for the second one and you will need a second strength to face the 540 000 horsepower of energy the wave generates!  https://www.oceanenergycouncil.com/ocean-energy/wave-energy/ Wave Energy - Ocean Energy Council What is wave energy? Wave energy is an irregular and oscillating low-frequency energy source that can be converted to a 60-Hertz frequency and can then be added to the electric utility grid. The energy in waves comes from the movement of the ocean and the changing heights and speed of the swells. Kinetic energy, the energy of motion, in waves is tremendous. An average 4-foot, 10-second wave ... www.oceanenergycouncil.com All your training is now what counts, that and your mind. Where does your mind go? In my case I asked God to keep me safe and bring me back to my kids. All the images of my kids started to show up and even fully inflated like a ball, I had to hold on. A third one came, fourth, fifth.. I lost count. Before I could see the shore I knew that I couldn’t swim there. The PWC showed up and my hand couldn’t hold the sled. I took more “little” 10 foot waves on the head. Another PWC stopped by and I had to roll into the sled. All the life guards were waiting, as always on giant days. It was finally over. Oxygen. Rest. And if nothing is broken. Go back for more! One of my best friends was really prepared for those mutant impacts, but he didn’t have the same luck as me. He reached the back of the PWC before another wave hit him after finishing his ride, but after they hit a “lump” of wave that is all over the Nazare inside, he hit his head and passed out. He couldn’t inflate his vest and they pulled him to the beach 10 min after. For me God saved him. One thing is for sure our sport requires increased attention on creating better flotation vests and stronger and more eco-friendly personal water crafts.

Wednesday, December 2, 2020

First swell 2020

First swells Every season drives you on a full excitement . It is this feeling for every big wave surfer. Too many months of small waves up here at the north hemisphere and on a covid year with not much travel allow must didn’t get any big waves for months. For me was a successful summer with a lot of peoples happy having surfing lessons at Aftersurf Bastiagueiro. I have the pleasure of give must of the classes and saw a progression on many kids and adults. When I went down to Nazaré , there wasn’t a clear swell on maps and was all about a Icon jiu-jitsu black belt graduation . Something really special with many friends who were teaching me this art like Alex Isidro, Vinicius Constantino, Sergio Vita, Bruno Sales , Alan Brandâo , my great long time surf friend Joao Gutemberg and their partners.
Had miss master Ze Marcello on this occasion that could made it cause covid restriction from England. Thank you Nazaré tow for made me do this graduation at the light house with a spa cual thanks to Pedro Pisco. Nazaré water fun and Perfect waves. Must photos from Patricia and video from Xurxo. Right at the end of this amazing days a huge swell showed up on charts. The talk at the harbor was all about it. Teams were firing up and organizing their rescue logistic with a certain stress. First one and a massive one. I had an surf with Garret Mcnamara and Andrew Cottom. Was keen to stay to surf with them and had a talk with the 2 times women Guiness récord Maya Gabeira and legend European big wave surfer Seb Steudtner. But I had a plan to surf “ Las Rubias” an outside wave at Galicia before Nazaré. As usual the impact of the swells from America with hit up here ando wanted to surf here at Coruña and after come down. I offered to both teams this deal of help me surf big here and come down after but nobody want. So I asked an advise to long time friend Lino Bogalho from Nazaré water fun to what to do and he did a great support of push me to come up. Why? My business Aftersurf is here and a big wave surfer here could be great for a new option for big wave riders. Coruña just had agree in collaboration with us, Aftersurf to organize an big wave event and a big wave could give one more push to open the eyes of the country and the world wide media for this area. Decisión take I had the lucky of have Cedric Gisco from France and his crew coming my way.
Got all my partners from Aftersurf helping up with the logistics . 5 am call to start at dark. Launched all Yamaha PWC at the Porto náutico de Coruña and we drove all the way to south by ocean . Had an amazing view of Hercules light tower and arrive at O Portiño. Was a bit slow the waves and I start surf. Got a couples waves and Pass the rope to Cedric. When I got back to the rope Cedric was really tired from all the driving coming driving from France the day before and we decide to get out of the water. The follow week a big group of “ Brazilian nuts” came visit me. The main goal was surf around O Portiño paddling, where will held the next big wave constest , corme to surf the slab of A Tremosa and the slab back here in Coruña in “ smallers” days. Check all photos and videos and comments about swells and logistic .

Saturday, August 29, 2020

Zarautz - mundial de surf 1998

I had won the event in Argentina excess was my first year on the world surf circuit. After the South American leg that had done a good result in Argentina, but nothing special in Peru. Since in Brazil he had been run over and left out of the canoe capon event. Event that right now I just remember being run over. To have done a Duck dive and left my foot out of the water and that foot cost a hole in a beginer's beak that would have run over me if I hadn't been submerged. Or almost submerged. I went to Australia and nothing too. All events in the first round. From Australia I only remember dyeing my hair blue and going surfing. When he got out of the water, we went to mcdonalds and Fabio Goveia laughing at me at Horácio I didn't know how green he was. Until he told me to go to the bathroom. The paint had melted and turned all green. Modern phone-free times! No Instagram! I arrived in Europe passing only one battery in France in a giant sea. An incredible surf in Mundaka. Alongside legends like Bruce Irons. Zarautz was incredible. I don't remember where I stayed, but it moved well. A perfect firming bullet and I always stayed behind hoping for the best. Nowadays I regret the interference I put in the place, Eneko. I would have qualified this year and put an interference on the Brazilian evil. They were just rights. Nas I deny him inside the peak and I went to the left. Very good memories. Thanks Whohoo, for currently reposting on Instagram. Tinha ganho o evento na Argentina excesso foi meu primeiro ano no circuito mundial de surf. Depois da perna sul americana que tinha feito um bom resultado na Argentina, mas nada de especial no Peru. Já que no Brasil tinha sido atropelado e ficado de fora do evento de capão da canoa. Evento que agora mesmo só lembro de ser atropelado. De ter dado um Duck dive e deixado o pé de fora da água e esse pé custou um buraco de um bico de um beginer que teria me atropelado se não tivesse submerso. Ou quase submerso. Fui a Austrália e nada também. Todos os eventos no primeiro round. Da Austrália só me lembro de pintar o cabelo de azul e ir surfar. Quando sai da água, fomos ao mcdonalds e Fabio Goveia rindo de mim a Horácio eu não sabia quebrantava verde como o hulk. Até que me disse decir ao banheiro. A tinta tinha derretido e ficado a cara toda verde. Tempos sem telefone modernos! Sem Instagram ! Cheguei na Europa passando só uma bateria na França em um mar gigante . Um surf incrível em Mundaka. Ao lado de legends como Bruce Irons. Zarautz foi incrível. Não lembro onde fiquei , mas mexeu bem. Una bala decfireira perfeita e eu sempre ficava mais atrás esperando as melhores. Hoje em dia me arrependo da interferência que meti no local, Eneko . Teria se classificado nesse ano e coloquei uma interferência na maldade brasileira. Eram só direitas. Nas nego ele dentro do pico e fui para a esquerda . Muito boas recordações. Obrigado Whohoo, por repost actualmente no Instagram.

Wednesday, April 1, 2020

live 3 Michel Bourez

Met Michel long time ago. when he was on his first year on was tour and I was giving a term on my surfing competition career on normal waves and giving a go on big waves

live 2 Jeremy Flores

Interview with Jeremy, I record after the interview my live with the iPhone and didn’t end up good. So, I make a writing resume. Had met Jeremy, long time ago when he was a 9 years old kid. And back in that time, there was events in Reunion island. And for him, see all those pros, was a extra push to become prone the future. I had ask if he lardy could see him on that level. And he answered that not really but already saw a way to live and be a professional surfer, seen all those surfers. HIs father helped a lot him on that way. With a vision on how good he will be. Bring him all over the globe. Pushing him all the time. Between laughing and good talking memories, he talked about how confident he was when qualified and his amazing 8th in the world rock of the year. Think the highlight was talk about Andy Irons and how after went to his ceremony at Kauai , his approach at pipe was always think about him and how Andy will act if was him in competition situation. Famous to be super aggressive. That make him too get to the final and in the last second he was sure, someone sent him a wave to win his first pipe master. He did again after, in 2017 and beat the favorite and reign world champ, jhonjhon Florence. More title we talk was with Gabriel Medina and his victory in Tahiti. On good conditions , they battle was priority and Gabriel end up coming back to the peak set came and he started with a 9,…something and won.. on the same game Gabriel plays. Send prays for our good friend Leo Neves. And We all send lover and hope for those on Covid 19 virus time.

Tuesday, March 31, 2020

Live one Icon bjj Swiss interview Eric Rebiere and Davi Ale





The idea of start this the idea of start some lives came from Anderson Pereira. A black belt icon jiu-jitsu that ask me if I want to do a live with him. I accept and think that will be cool if I could do a live with some friends and have some of the best surfer as a friend I really love to what started. cause was a way to think of good memories with than. here if the first one with Icon Jiu-jitsu team Swiss . Professor Anderson Pereira and Davi Alexandre who is staying on my house and got locked here in this tuff times that are happen with the whole world.

Friday, March 20, 2020

Nazaré Wipeout




Nazaré
One of those things that you might think twice to say yes. But as I always did on big surf, since back in the days at Romulo’s house in Hawaii.
I just say yes and go.
I get say that for me this event was a personal victory.

Get over a really complicated time in my life , where I need to deal with a sharing guard for my kids that became a wild lawyer situation with an investigation to myself till this day , based on things that the mother of my kids is been saying.
Thing that when I had a resolution in my head in how to act with all this. Life became simple. Values became strong.
For sure I had put more sport in my life, but 1,5 month ago before event start, I hurt my shoulder fighting Jiu-Jitsu and was tuff to keep doing everything.
Had a great sport psychology sessions with Maria Augusta that really gave my sone set up points.. points to start and be motivated.
When that avalanche hit my back. I was on this moments that life stopped.
First impact was something unreal strong. Send me all over !! Second I couldn’t believe, I’ve never saw the size of the brown/white water like that in from of me.
I just said : God, my life was good but I still want to come back to my kids.
As soon I had think of them ( my kids) the monster impact hit me and even if was as strong as the first one, I was calm. Really calm in fact. 
Daisy to reach the sand.. I only thought about go to the sand have a break and breath.
No strength at all to pick up the sled. And after many tour I could.
PWC came after many waves and that really killed my energy.
Had a breath on the beach. Some oxygen and went to the harbor to change CO2 for the inflation vest.
Went back out, but my energy wasn’t the same. 
Had to try ! Need to try and let’s see what I could do going back. 
And for sure, the strength on my legs wasn’t the same.
Got 2 and drove Sancho to the end of the contest. 
Big congrats to the girls.
Maya Gabeira and Justine DuPont were killing it and charging!! Surfing as good as the men crew.

Part 2
My feedback for this 1st edition is that was a really good edition if our Alex Botelho and Hugo Vau , didn’t have their accident.
Sure Alex was on a way worst situation and I doubt that if was somebody else , could survived.
Alex is a strong kid and really used to paddle monster Nazaré and get smashed all the way to the beach. Think this is what really made posible to got all that time he was unconscious and filling his lungs with salt water .
Alex is recovering now and out of risk.
No damaged ! More important thing.
Thank you to his lovely lady Celeste and Dr Axel to give me news from him.
Now, on my eyes, what should change :

1 : security first

On a contest that is called “ tow” , for the security gets on a high level, I think the team should be a team where both really need to back up his partner, to make sure they have all set up on this area. Training a lot and on no space for mistake.
We all know that every teams only go out with 2 PWC for training.
1 spotter 
So , first change could be teams of 3, where all need to surf , drive and rescue or 2 surfing and one rescue as usual. But their full year team. 
The WSL could only deliver 2 to 4 really good drivers with experience at Nazaré and one of than with a swimmer behind.
In case needs to jump as Alemão de Maresias did with Alex, not able to pick him on the top of the PWC.

2- teams

Should be teams represent their sponsor and sponsor that are putting all needs for surfers train all year for that day.
What will change is the possibility to teams being more and more together.. training together and get on the level of the moto gp.
Saw many webs going against the event and the dangerous this is.
Come on!
We ready to go!
What we need is more support from sponsors to be more and more prepared.

3- competition format 

Think heats with a clear score is the best way to go.
Expression session with a video that not everyone was in. Is a difficult way to make a champ. To support and coverage all team with the attention they give.

4- technology 
For end up I think a safety drone or even the live drone, should have a different color and a way to make smoke or another sign that make sure the drive get to the surfer , he could know where the surfer is and if is a tuff call .





Tuesday, December 10, 2019

Nazaré team France

Been selected for the next Nazare tow challenge is a honor for me.

I’ve been going to Nazare since early days when legend, Garret McNamara start his first trips side to side with Andrew Cotton and All Menie.
I get tell that my focus isn’t my profesional surfer carrier anymore.
My main go is raise my kids as good as I can in the same time I try my best to be fit.
Jiu-Jitsu is for sure the other sport that makes me on track on this go to be fit.
A very intelligent martial art that makes you fit same time that you look for option on attack / defense.
And my main go on big waves is surf better and better illa Pancha, for my own happiness and organize this great adventure on the side of Aftersurf partners and local Oscar Garcia to make this thing a stop on big wave surfing

Nazaré team France

Been selected for the next Nazare tow challenge is a honor for me.

I’ve been going to Nazare since early days when legend, Garret McNamara start his first trips side to side with Andrew Cotton and All Menie.
I get tell that my focus isn’t my profesional surfer carrier anymore.
My main go is raise my kids as good as I can in the same time I try my best to be fit.
Jiu-Jitsu is for sure the other sport that makes me on track on this go to be fit.
A very intelligent martial art that makes you fit same time that you look for option on attack / defense.
And my main go on big waves is surf better and better illa Pancha, for my own happiness and organize this great adventure on the side of Aftersurf partners and local Oscar Garcia to make this thing a stop on big wave surfing

Nazaré team France

Been selected for the next Nazare tow challenge is a honor for me.

I’ve been going to Nazare since early days when legend, Garret McNamara start his first trips side to side with Andrew Cotton and All Menie.
I get tell that my focus isn’t my profesional surfer carrier anymore.
My main go is raise my kids as good as I can in the same time I try my best to be fit.
Jiu-Jitsu is for sure the other sport that makes me on track on this go to be fit.
A very intelligent martial art that makes you fit same time that you look for option on attack / defense.
And my main go on big waves is surf better and better illa Pancha, for my own happiness and organize this great adventure on the side of Aftersurf partners and local Oscar Garcia to make this thing a stop on big wave surfing

Monday, July 29, 2019

4 x Spanish champ




Master
5 am
I have insomnia and i decide to write about the Spanish championship a month or more ago ( don’t remember when was that anymore).
It has been really busy lately. First part of aftersurf, the terrace, is finally open after 2 years. Ad a summer time surf lessons, bjj teaching , single father with 2 kids, 5 Instagram accounts , one big wave event, one amateur event and helping all that I can on the bar or what ever needs , cleaning , rebuilding,.... it is hard just to write some lines on this blog.
I think this intro was a intro to explain how hard is to keep doing contests.. have your mind free to enjoy the time competing ..
That was my 4th straight Spanish master title. Something harder than my elite tour qualification or the European titles or a big wave title in Ireland, don’t think so.. my carrier had more stronger ups... but this keep me in shape and I see how my friends from my age love to do it and love to win and makes that strong completion vibe alive.
Thanks Dani,Milo for make a tuff last contest..
A last minute decision made me get a perfect wave far from the other competitors ( 9 points on video bellow).

Follow :
Aftersurf
Esurfacademy
Icon bjj world
Illa Pancha Challenge

Co-sponsors :
Nixon
RVCA
Perfect waves
Jobsite surfboards
Rob Vaughan surfboards
Featherfins
Cabreiroá
Estrella Galicia
Gures 

Wednesday, May 8, 2019

Brazil vs the world

Brazil vs the world

I was thinking to write about a bad judgement during this last event at Brlls.
I had see so many post that I truly believed that Jhonjhon vs Gabriel had a bad call..
But not on my eyes..
Gabe best waves is truly on the forever judgement criteria for Bells. Giant big turn on first turn makes scores goes up..
But new criteria Jhon’s was definitive better with a sequence of big turns..
I saw Italo’s a bunch of time and is right there on the borderline call. 
First I saw he did not interference and second what they were call is a track that could disturb a surfer that was already disturbed by the white water..
Could be both sides.. in this case I will jump or go straight.. even more after the wave he had before..
But to finish I will post this pics of all this victory’s from Brazilian..
I did grew up there ... never really did most of my carrier for Brazil but always travelled with both sides.. my good mates from Brazil and from Europe.
And can straight tell the whole world hate the Brazilians back them.. nowadays... not sure.. i am not in the tour..
But don’t think this pack of Brazilian flags makes Americans, Hawaians, Australians and even sometimes Europeans happy.
They differ rents and they don’t accept .. i live for most of my life in Europe with kids here and my point of view is that all this way of speak loud, of scream after victories, of claim and claim are not the way the world of other country’s like it and it is what it is..for sure they will be happy with a bunch of other flags on those victories.

Wednesday, March 6, 2019

Biggest wave of the season

This year xxl award has 2 really big waves to decide the biggest of the year.
In one hand , english man Tom Buttler who is chasing this titlle a couples years now in the side of Sebastian steudtner ( that already has 2 wins and this year putted Tom on this one (pic1).
And in the other hand , the prodigious hawaian Kain Lenny, that i think never had one win at the xxl awards yet.
Kai is competing in many categorys this year and even if for me, Tom´s wave is bigger, i have a feeling that Kai could win.
the picture of his wave was one of the most shared of the year and for sure , doesnt show the size good, it is impactant.
with a no profesional size mesuring, the view impact counts a lot nowadays.
Till the day a mesure system will start to maseure with computer, different angles and will eliminate the subjective view of judges.
Still the old days msure...one surfer 1,5 metres..wheres is the base? Where is the lip and lets count..
Tom´s

Kai´s

Kai´s