Morning sickness

Morning sickness

Wednesday, July 7, 2021

Coruña slab : La toxica surf by surf Europe

Eric Rebiere Adjuntos mar, 6 jul 11:35 (hace 21 horas) para mí Tóxica Antes de escrever desta onda incrível, começo comentando que vou sempre escrever no blog em português. Tinha o hábito de fazer em inglês, mas as traduções estão muito boas nos dias de hoje e escrevendo na minha primeira língua o vocabulário e a forma de expressão aumentam. Vim em busca de ondas na Coruña, em 2009. Já havia estado várias vezes por vir ao Pantin desde ‘97. Mas A Coruña em busca de onda. Essa foi a primeira vez. Tinha já decidido de parar minha carreira de competidor e estava atrás de novas ondas e assim novos conteúdos para minha moça mudança de objetivos na carreira como freesurfer . Entrei no carro em Hendaie, onde vivia na casa de meu velho amigo David Masa, el txitxu, direção Coruña a casa da minha ex mulher que na época só queria visitar, dar uns pegas e pegar altas ondas ( hoje tenho dois filhos com ela e uma relação horroriza). Cheguei de madrugada e claro, namoramos bastante tempo. Pela informação que me havia dado o antigo representante do meu patrocinador de pranchas, na época, Tanaka , a onda só funcionava de maré seca. Isto não seria tão cedo e al final, fiquei namorando até tarde. Acordei junto com ela cansado. Ela ia trabalhar em Inditex e eu tentar surfar a nova onda. A vista ao ver a onda de cima doa falésia não era a mais apetitosa. Um “ buracão “ enfrente das pedras. Fui descendo e observando a onda já vestido com o wetsuit e cada passo mais perto do nível do mar, maior ficava o mar. Acha que estava 4 pés de cima e ao chegar no local para pular das pedras, estava 10. Algunas series fechavam toda a mini baía em uma só parede. Um só close out. Peguei umas 3 ondas ( vídeo abaixo ) e sai da água brigando contra a corrente do mini canal que ajuda a entrar. Ao chegar na pedra o local , “ pasteleiro “ , estava pronto para pular. Disse para não ir que estava perigoso z. Não me escutou , claro e se jogou na agua . Ao não calcular bem o tempo das séries, pulou na hora de algumas ondas grandes que arremessou ele direto as pedras expostas na frente da zona de “ take-off “. Depois de duas ou três ondas , desapareceu no paredão da falésia. Tanaka estava desesperado . Eu triste . Tinha perdido meu amigo Malik ( tahitiano morto com 25 anos afogado em Pipeline ) e fiquei dando mil voltas na cabeça . Começou a chegar polícia e derrepente aparece “ pasteleiro “ , depois de uns 15 min ou mais desaparecido , escalando a falésia . As ondas jogaram ele rm uma gruta e aí conseguiu escalar e se salvar . Depois dessa vez voltei a tirar fogos com meu grande amigo Alex Laurel . O reportagem seguinte é de algumas “ trips “ diferentes e alguns surfistas extraordinários ! Actualmente vivo em Coruña e essa é uma das minhas ondas favoritas . fotos de Alex Laurel

Sunday, June 20, 2021

safety on big surf


 Safety on surf After many lives were lost in a sequence of tragedies on big waves, the surf industry started to make flotation vests that would enable a surfer to surface before the next wave hits. Sounds simple! There is only one problem. The surfer needs to pull the cord under the water. “Blow the vest on his own “ Easy? Sounds easy. The reality is that the surfer needs to be in shape, fit, trained and have some luck as well. Two stories will follow! Both at Nazaré. The biggest and heaviest wave in the world. French-Brazilian surfer Eric Rebiere was talking to his partner during the session. More a discussion than a talk. Why? Details of how to drive. The main thing about surfing the worlds biggest waves, is that the driver is as important as the surfer. He is the one that selects the wave and hopefully puts you at the perfect place on it. The right spot at the right speed. And if you don’t fall, the driver is the one that picks you up before another wave reaches you. If you fall, it is a totally different scenario. The surfer can surface anywhere and even if someone has a radio to hand and a perfect view from the top of the cliff, it is rare the the driver will have time to figure out where you are and reach you before the next one hits. And what happens is this: “You feel the speed of the jet ski on your board. You know your going fast and you can take any wave you want. Your last moments doubt to go or not go is when you still have the tow rope in your hands. As soon you let go you have two options: find more speed in different zones of the wave with more risk or follow the same line the PWC driver placed you and hope your lucky enough to have the speed to avoid the wave breaking on you. On this specific case I didn’t have a chance to choose my line. We came from way deep and fast. Board was flying! The irregular surface combined with the speed was making the board vibrate a lot. My concentration was on not falling and making sure my stance stayed strong and held. It Looked like the take off was almost ending and it was time to change the line to the wall when the hit came. Such a heavy impact that it is hard to describe. Body goes all over and you don’t roll.  Not like a small wave. You get spit out to the sky at the same time you loose body coordination. Your still in this mutant washing machine when you realize that you need to pull the vest. How? Not sure. Wait? When? You focus on your arm strength against the wave strength as you try to reach the vests little string cord. You know its somewhere, but where is it? Somewhere. Time goes. The Wave still has the same intensity. Same powerful body washing machine. And you don’t know to be afraid of God or ask for his help. LOL. You finally reach the string on the vest and you pull. Nothing happens. Your still rolling and going deeper up and down. Seconds feel like minutes and you think that the vest hasn’t worked. If it had, you would be up and not up and then drawn back down. In a second there is one last punch and a small break from the wave. You feel a hand forcing you up fast. Really fast. As you shoot up out the water you realize that all 4 CO2 canisters have blown. Your fully inflated and can barely breathe with the pressure of the vest on you. Its over! The driver will pick you up No! Nobody will pick you up. Your somewhere nobody can reach you. The second wave may not break where the wave of the set breaks. If you picked up the wave at the normal spot and not way outside as it was a huge one. Your right in the impact zone for the second one and you will need a second strength to face the 540 000 horsepower of energy the wave generates!  https://www.oceanenergycouncil.com/ocean-energy/wave-energy/ Wave Energy - Ocean Energy Council What is wave energy? Wave energy is an irregular and oscillating low-frequency energy source that can be converted to a 60-Hertz frequency and can then be added to the electric utility grid. The energy in waves comes from the movement of the ocean and the changing heights and speed of the swells. Kinetic energy, the energy of motion, in waves is tremendous. An average 4-foot, 10-second wave ... www.oceanenergycouncil.com All your training is now what counts, that and your mind. Where does your mind go? In my case I asked God to keep me safe and bring me back to my kids. All the images of my kids started to show up and even fully inflated like a ball, I had to hold on. A third one came, fourth, fifth.. I lost count. Before I could see the shore I knew that I couldn’t swim there. The PWC showed up and my hand couldn’t hold the sled. I took more “little” 10 foot waves on the head. Another PWC stopped by and I had to roll into the sled. All the life guards were waiting, as always on giant days. It was finally over. Oxygen. Rest. And if nothing is broken. Go back for more! One of my best friends was really prepared for those mutant impacts, but he didn’t have the same luck as me. He reached the back of the PWC before another wave hit him after finishing his ride, but after they hit a “lump” of wave that is all over the Nazare inside, he hit his head and passed out. He couldn’t inflate his vest and they pulled him to the beach 10 min after. For me God saved him. One thing is for sure our sport requires increased attention on creating better flotation vests and stronger and more eco-friendly personal water crafts.

Wednesday, December 2, 2020

First swell 2020

First swells Every season drives you on a full excitement . It is this feeling for every big wave surfer. Too many months of small waves up here at the north hemisphere and on a covid year with not much travel allow must didn’t get any big waves for months. For me was a successful summer with a lot of peoples happy having surfing lessons at Aftersurf Bastiagueiro. I have the pleasure of give must of the classes and saw a progression on many kids and adults. When I went down to Nazaré , there wasn’t a clear swell on maps and was all about a Icon jiu-jitsu black belt graduation . Something really special with many friends who were teaching me this art like Alex Isidro, Vinicius Constantino, Sergio Vita, Bruno Sales , Alan Brandâo , my great long time surf friend Joao Gutemberg and their partners.
Had miss master Ze Marcello on this occasion that could made it cause covid restriction from England. Thank you Nazaré tow for made me do this graduation at the light house with a spa cual thanks to Pedro Pisco. Nazaré water fun and Perfect waves. Must photos from Patricia and video from Xurxo. Right at the end of this amazing days a huge swell showed up on charts. The talk at the harbor was all about it. Teams were firing up and organizing their rescue logistic with a certain stress. First one and a massive one. I had an surf with Garret Mcnamara and Andrew Cottom. Was keen to stay to surf with them and had a talk with the 2 times women Guiness récord Maya Gabeira and legend European big wave surfer Seb Steudtner. But I had a plan to surf “ Las Rubias” an outside wave at Galicia before Nazaré. As usual the impact of the swells from America with hit up here ando wanted to surf here at Coruña and after come down. I offered to both teams this deal of help me surf big here and come down after but nobody want. So I asked an advise to long time friend Lino Bogalho from Nazaré water fun to what to do and he did a great support of push me to come up. Why? My business Aftersurf is here and a big wave surfer here could be great for a new option for big wave riders. Coruña just had agree in collaboration with us, Aftersurf to organize an big wave event and a big wave could give one more push to open the eyes of the country and the world wide media for this area. Decisión take I had the lucky of have Cedric Gisco from France and his crew coming my way.
Got all my partners from Aftersurf helping up with the logistics . 5 am call to start at dark. Launched all Yamaha PWC at the Porto náutico de Coruña and we drove all the way to south by ocean . Had an amazing view of Hercules light tower and arrive at O Portiño. Was a bit slow the waves and I start surf. Got a couples waves and Pass the rope to Cedric. When I got back to the rope Cedric was really tired from all the driving coming driving from France the day before and we decide to get out of the water. The follow week a big group of “ Brazilian nuts” came visit me. The main goal was surf around O Portiño paddling, where will held the next big wave constest , corme to surf the slab of A Tremosa and the slab back here in Coruña in “ smallers” days. Check all photos and videos and comments about swells and logistic .

Saturday, August 29, 2020

Zarautz - mundial de surf 1998

I had won the event in Argentina excess was my first year on the world surf circuit. After the South American leg that had done a good result in Argentina, but nothing special in Peru. Since in Brazil he had been run over and left out of the canoe capon event. Event that right now I just remember being run over. To have done a Duck dive and left my foot out of the water and that foot cost a hole in a beginer's beak that would have run over me if I hadn't been submerged. Or almost submerged. I went to Australia and nothing too. All events in the first round. From Australia I only remember dyeing my hair blue and going surfing. When he got out of the water, we went to mcdonalds and Fabio Goveia laughing at me at Horácio I didn't know how green he was. Until he told me to go to the bathroom. The paint had melted and turned all green. Modern phone-free times! No Instagram! I arrived in Europe passing only one battery in France in a giant sea. An incredible surf in Mundaka. Alongside legends like Bruce Irons. Zarautz was incredible. I don't remember where I stayed, but it moved well. A perfect firming bullet and I always stayed behind hoping for the best. Nowadays I regret the interference I put in the place, Eneko. I would have qualified this year and put an interference on the Brazilian evil. They were just rights. Nas I deny him inside the peak and I went to the left. Very good memories. Thanks Whohoo, for currently reposting on Instagram. Tinha ganho o evento na Argentina excesso foi meu primeiro ano no circuito mundial de surf. Depois da perna sul americana que tinha feito um bom resultado na Argentina, mas nada de especial no Peru. Já que no Brasil tinha sido atropelado e ficado de fora do evento de capão da canoa. Evento que agora mesmo só lembro de ser atropelado. De ter dado um Duck dive e deixado o pé de fora da água e esse pé custou um buraco de um bico de um beginer que teria me atropelado se não tivesse submerso. Ou quase submerso. Fui a Austrália e nada também. Todos os eventos no primeiro round. Da Austrália só me lembro de pintar o cabelo de azul e ir surfar. Quando sai da água, fomos ao mcdonalds e Fabio Goveia rindo de mim a Horácio eu não sabia quebrantava verde como o hulk. Até que me disse decir ao banheiro. A tinta tinha derretido e ficado a cara toda verde. Tempos sem telefone modernos! Sem Instagram ! Cheguei na Europa passando só uma bateria na França em um mar gigante . Um surf incrível em Mundaka. Ao lado de legends como Bruce Irons. Zarautz foi incrível. Não lembro onde fiquei , mas mexeu bem. Una bala decfireira perfeita e eu sempre ficava mais atrás esperando as melhores. Hoje em dia me arrependo da interferência que meti no local, Eneko . Teria se classificado nesse ano e coloquei uma interferência na maldade brasileira. Eram só direitas. Nas nego ele dentro do pico e fui para a esquerda . Muito boas recordações. Obrigado Whohoo, por repost actualmente no Instagram.

Wednesday, April 1, 2020

live 3 Michel Bourez

Met Michel long time ago. when he was on his first year on was tour and I was giving a term on my surfing competition career on normal waves and giving a go on big waves

live 2 Jeremy Flores

Interview with Jeremy, I record after the interview my live with the iPhone and didn’t end up good. So, I make a writing resume. Had met Jeremy, long time ago when he was a 9 years old kid. And back in that time, there was events in Reunion island. And for him, see all those pros, was a extra push to become prone the future. I had ask if he lardy could see him on that level. And he answered that not really but already saw a way to live and be a professional surfer, seen all those surfers. HIs father helped a lot him on that way. With a vision on how good he will be. Bring him all over the globe. Pushing him all the time. Between laughing and good talking memories, he talked about how confident he was when qualified and his amazing 8th in the world rock of the year. Think the highlight was talk about Andy Irons and how after went to his ceremony at Kauai , his approach at pipe was always think about him and how Andy will act if was him in competition situation. Famous to be super aggressive. That make him too get to the final and in the last second he was sure, someone sent him a wave to win his first pipe master. He did again after, in 2017 and beat the favorite and reign world champ, jhonjhon Florence. More title we talk was with Gabriel Medina and his victory in Tahiti. On good conditions , they battle was priority and Gabriel end up coming back to the peak set came and he started with a 9,…something and won.. on the same game Gabriel plays. Send prays for our good friend Leo Neves. And We all send lover and hope for those on Covid 19 virus time.

Tuesday, March 31, 2020

Live one Icon bjj Swiss interview Eric Rebiere and Davi Ale





The idea of start this the idea of start some lives came from Anderson Pereira. A black belt icon jiu-jitsu that ask me if I want to do a live with him. I accept and think that will be cool if I could do a live with some friends and have some of the best surfer as a friend I really love to what started. cause was a way to think of good memories with than. here if the first one with Icon Jiu-jitsu team Swiss . Professor Anderson Pereira and Davi Alexandre who is staying on my house and got locked here in this tuff times that are happen with the whole world.

Friday, March 20, 2020

Nazaré Wipeout




Nazaré
One of those things that you might think twice to say yes. But as I always did on big surf, since back in the days at Romulo’s house in Hawaii.
I just say yes and go.
I get say that for me this event was a personal victory.

Get over a really complicated time in my life , where I need to deal with a sharing guard for my kids that became a wild lawyer situation with an investigation to myself till this day , based on things that the mother of my kids is been saying.
Thing that when I had a resolution in my head in how to act with all this. Life became simple. Values became strong.
For sure I had put more sport in my life, but 1,5 month ago before event start, I hurt my shoulder fighting Jiu-Jitsu and was tuff to keep doing everything.
Had a great sport psychology sessions with Maria Augusta that really gave my sone set up points.. points to start and be motivated.
When that avalanche hit my back. I was on this moments that life stopped.
First impact was something unreal strong. Send me all over !! Second I couldn’t believe, I’ve never saw the size of the brown/white water like that in from of me.
I just said : God, my life was good but I still want to come back to my kids.
As soon I had think of them ( my kids) the monster impact hit me and even if was as strong as the first one, I was calm. Really calm in fact. 
Daisy to reach the sand.. I only thought about go to the sand have a break and breath.
No strength at all to pick up the sled. And after many tour I could.
PWC came after many waves and that really killed my energy.
Had a breath on the beach. Some oxygen and went to the harbor to change CO2 for the inflation vest.
Went back out, but my energy wasn’t the same. 
Had to try ! Need to try and let’s see what I could do going back. 
And for sure, the strength on my legs wasn’t the same.
Got 2 and drove Sancho to the end of the contest. 
Big congrats to the girls.
Maya Gabeira and Justine DuPont were killing it and charging!! Surfing as good as the men crew.

Part 2
My feedback for this 1st edition is that was a really good edition if our Alex Botelho and Hugo Vau , didn’t have their accident.
Sure Alex was on a way worst situation and I doubt that if was somebody else , could survived.
Alex is a strong kid and really used to paddle monster Nazaré and get smashed all the way to the beach. Think this is what really made posible to got all that time he was unconscious and filling his lungs with salt water .
Alex is recovering now and out of risk.
No damaged ! More important thing.
Thank you to his lovely lady Celeste and Dr Axel to give me news from him.
Now, on my eyes, what should change :

1 : security first

On a contest that is called “ tow” , for the security gets on a high level, I think the team should be a team where both really need to back up his partner, to make sure they have all set up on this area. Training a lot and on no space for mistake.
We all know that every teams only go out with 2 PWC for training.
1 spotter 
So , first change could be teams of 3, where all need to surf , drive and rescue or 2 surfing and one rescue as usual. But their full year team. 
The WSL could only deliver 2 to 4 really good drivers with experience at Nazaré and one of than with a swimmer behind.
In case needs to jump as Alemão de Maresias did with Alex, not able to pick him on the top of the PWC.

2- teams

Should be teams represent their sponsor and sponsor that are putting all needs for surfers train all year for that day.
What will change is the possibility to teams being more and more together.. training together and get on the level of the moto gp.
Saw many webs going against the event and the dangerous this is.
Come on!
We ready to go!
What we need is more support from sponsors to be more and more prepared.

3- competition format 

Think heats with a clear score is the best way to go.
Expression session with a video that not everyone was in. Is a difficult way to make a champ. To support and coverage all team with the attention they give.

4- technology 
For end up I think a safety drone or even the live drone, should have a different color and a way to make smoke or another sign that make sure the drive get to the surfer , he could know where the surfer is and if is a tuff call .





Tuesday, December 10, 2019

Nazaré team France

Been selected for the next Nazare tow challenge is a honor for me.

I’ve been going to Nazare since early days when legend, Garret McNamara start his first trips side to side with Andrew Cotton and All Menie.
I get tell that my focus isn’t my profesional surfer carrier anymore.
My main go is raise my kids as good as I can in the same time I try my best to be fit.
Jiu-Jitsu is for sure the other sport that makes me on track on this go to be fit.
A very intelligent martial art that makes you fit same time that you look for option on attack / defense.
And my main go on big waves is surf better and better illa Pancha, for my own happiness and organize this great adventure on the side of Aftersurf partners and local Oscar Garcia to make this thing a stop on big wave surfing

Nazaré team France

Been selected for the next Nazare tow challenge is a honor for me.

I’ve been going to Nazare since early days when legend, Garret McNamara start his first trips side to side with Andrew Cotton and All Menie.
I get tell that my focus isn’t my profesional surfer carrier anymore.
My main go is raise my kids as good as I can in the same time I try my best to be fit.
Jiu-Jitsu is for sure the other sport that makes me on track on this go to be fit.
A very intelligent martial art that makes you fit same time that you look for option on attack / defense.
And my main go on big waves is surf better and better illa Pancha, for my own happiness and organize this great adventure on the side of Aftersurf partners and local Oscar Garcia to make this thing a stop on big wave surfing

Nazaré team France

Been selected for the next Nazare tow challenge is a honor for me.

I’ve been going to Nazare since early days when legend, Garret McNamara start his first trips side to side with Andrew Cotton and All Menie.
I get tell that my focus isn’t my profesional surfer carrier anymore.
My main go is raise my kids as good as I can in the same time I try my best to be fit.
Jiu-Jitsu is for sure the other sport that makes me on track on this go to be fit.
A very intelligent martial art that makes you fit same time that you look for option on attack / defense.
And my main go on big waves is surf better and better illa Pancha, for my own happiness and organize this great adventure on the side of Aftersurf partners and local Oscar Garcia to make this thing a stop on big wave surfing

Monday, July 29, 2019

4 x Spanish champ




Master
5 am
I have insomnia and i decide to write about the Spanish championship a month or more ago ( don’t remember when was that anymore).
It has been really busy lately. First part of aftersurf, the terrace, is finally open after 2 years. Ad a summer time surf lessons, bjj teaching , single father with 2 kids, 5 Instagram accounts , one big wave event, one amateur event and helping all that I can on the bar or what ever needs , cleaning , rebuilding,.... it is hard just to write some lines on this blog.
I think this intro was a intro to explain how hard is to keep doing contests.. have your mind free to enjoy the time competing ..
That was my 4th straight Spanish master title. Something harder than my elite tour qualification or the European titles or a big wave title in Ireland, don’t think so.. my carrier had more stronger ups... but this keep me in shape and I see how my friends from my age love to do it and love to win and makes that strong completion vibe alive.
Thanks Dani,Milo for make a tuff last contest..
A last minute decision made me get a perfect wave far from the other competitors ( 9 points on video bellow).

Follow :
Aftersurf
Esurfacademy
Icon bjj world
Illa Pancha Challenge

Co-sponsors :
Nixon
RVCA
Perfect waves
Jobsite surfboards
Rob Vaughan surfboards
Featherfins
Cabreiroá
Estrella Galicia
Gures 

Wednesday, May 8, 2019

Brazil vs the world

Brazil vs the world

I was thinking to write about a bad judgement during this last event at Brlls.
I had see so many post that I truly believed that Jhonjhon vs Gabriel had a bad call..
But not on my eyes..
Gabe best waves is truly on the forever judgement criteria for Bells. Giant big turn on first turn makes scores goes up..
But new criteria Jhon’s was definitive better with a sequence of big turns..
I saw Italo’s a bunch of time and is right there on the borderline call. 
First I saw he did not interference and second what they were call is a track that could disturb a surfer that was already disturbed by the white water..
Could be both sides.. in this case I will jump or go straight.. even more after the wave he had before..
But to finish I will post this pics of all this victory’s from Brazilian..
I did grew up there ... never really did most of my carrier for Brazil but always travelled with both sides.. my good mates from Brazil and from Europe.
And can straight tell the whole world hate the Brazilians back them.. nowadays... not sure.. i am not in the tour..
But don’t think this pack of Brazilian flags makes Americans, Hawaians, Australians and even sometimes Europeans happy.
They differ rents and they don’t accept .. i live for most of my life in Europe with kids here and my point of view is that all this way of speak loud, of scream after victories, of claim and claim are not the way the world of other country’s like it and it is what it is..for sure they will be happy with a bunch of other flags on those victories.

Wednesday, March 6, 2019

Biggest wave of the season

This year xxl award has 2 really big waves to decide the biggest of the year.
In one hand , english man Tom Buttler who is chasing this titlle a couples years now in the side of Sebastian steudtner ( that already has 2 wins and this year putted Tom on this one (pic1).
And in the other hand , the prodigious hawaian Kain Lenny, that i think never had one win at the xxl awards yet.
Kai is competing in many categorys this year and even if for me, Tom´s wave is bigger, i have a feeling that Kai could win.
the picture of his wave was one of the most shared of the year and for sure , doesnt show the size good, it is impactant.
with a no profesional size mesuring, the view impact counts a lot nowadays.
Till the day a mesure system will start to maseure with computer, different angles and will eliminate the subjective view of judges.
Still the old days msure...one surfer 1,5 metres..wheres is the base? Where is the lip and lets count..
Tom´s

Kai´s

Kai´s

Monday, February 11, 2019

LipChain illa Pancha Challenge

This first edition of the Illa Pancha was something that i will never Forget. 
The team behind it had as a head directors Oscar García from Ribadeo, Lucas and myself from Aftersurf but a lot of names supporting us that I only can say big thank!!
We started working on it July 2018.
Proceeding every details for the day.
One day that wasn’t that easy to choose.
Swell for this place, get be as much north as I could see and monotorize the whole swell from the begging, up there, close to Iceland, hitting Ireland and coming down, was an stressful day by day check ( more like hour by hour check).
I remember asked many peoples and they all said will be bad, too small.
I had a talk with master forecast François Liets and he did see the same of me.
An solid north swell.
And from the other hand, Guys that have lots of experience in Nazaré and surfing there, all confirmed to come.

We had a short briefing one night before .
Ross and Axi decide to go surf another wave and alternates partner from Portugal, Lourenço and Francisco took their spot.

Waves start a bit slow and really pumped from quarters finals 4.
With a great show from Natxo and Adrian( Basque Country).
The two greatest fight for me was :
Semi 2 
Natxo / Adrian vs Pato / Scooby
The last 2 waves decide the winner with to back to back barrels and the Brazilians won it.
Same team did a crazy fight up against Lucas /Ian.
Lucas had some barrels, Pedro a good one that could win the best barrel of the contest ( waiting to see Redbull footage from a Pujol to really clarified this. I still in doubt between him and Lucas).
And Ian Consesa barrel was the one barrel that made the difference.
All day in the water.
A great show of barrels.
Sponsors happy.
Politicians happy 
Public happy
We all from organization , say a big thank you!!
See you at the next edition!
Follow us at illapanchachallenge.com

Ian Consensa .
firstedition champ with Lucas Chumbo

Wednesday, October 24, 2018

Galician contest 2018

It is always a challenge to compete. 
Personal or exterior challenge.
In this year state of Galicia championship was my personal .
I had work a lot during the summer.
Days of many surf lessons going into a job as a Bar man on my own business aftersurf.
Many days closing 3 am and cleaning everything with my partner, the Argentinian owner of alcorte, Lucas.
19 hours work.
Tough but good.
Good to know that you do can come out of your comfort zone as a surfer and learn other activists that is not as easy or as you used for long as surf is for me.
So 2018 Galician contest was a challenge as a worked more than surfed.
Didn’t train and didn’t have a good board.
My surf students came to support me and was a really stand out part of the day.

New board came one day before the event start, from jobsite Portugal and worked insane.

My long time student Juan Fernandez won the open division.
Las year he got second behind me and i am really happy this year he beat me.Sure i felt in on ereally good right for my out out shape barman and surfschool season, but still a really great victory and i am proud of him.

Final vibes with Juan.
Club de surf Galaico got second in over all clubs with only 4 athlets competing.


Saturday, July 14, 2018

3 x spanish champ

For the third time in a row i won the spanish tittle in my category.
Happy for the win, but i wish every single legend could be there and enjoy the moment in the side of Dani Garcia, Pablo Solar, Milo Castelo, El Gato, ..Names like Eneko Acero, Ilker Fuentes, Jose Maria Cabrera was missing..


Thursday, June 21, 2018

big wave interview

I am petty much on my way to retirement.
Last season i did not have time to surf the waves i want before really step out and this winter i will keep try to do it.
More in Galicia.
This is an spanish interview about big waves and all the world around. Jetskis,  team  work.. 
But it is in spanich:

https://www.tetongravity.com/films/andy-irons-kissed-by-god

Wednesday, May 2, 2018

SURFING BRAZIL

Had a blast visiting my family and friends at Arraial do cabo.

A very special place with one of the greatest boat trip in Rio de Janeiro´s state.