Monday, December 23, 2013

Weekend between France and Spain

My plans was go to the Hossegor contest with my friends and than go try Belharra paddle next day, last  sunday..
Things start to change when my first wave at "la Nord Hossegor" i did a crazy wipe out on the take off(could be one of my best barrels in France wave if i made it).The wave suck me back and trough me right to the sand on my butt.
Stretching my legs.
I did the heat and qualifing to the final, but could not put my wetsuit without pain, and decided not to go.
Went to Francois Liets house(Billabong adventure man and friend ), and as we was checking the forecast to Belharra i received a email from Gary Linden to compete at the Punta Galea contest.
I decide to go there and pass Belharra, even with could be one of the best paddle session ever.
Slept really bad with a lots of pain in my hind quarters , junction to the body and start to get the road taking pain killers pills.
I arrived to the contest dark still and twiggy Baker.
He definitely line up as fast as every one else the hard Punta Galea Line up, getting many waves every heat.
My side , i only get one and lost my board.
Congrats to Twiggy!

Thursday, December 19, 2013

First part Basque country

Had an amazing weekend at french basque country side.Hendaie;

Henadie restaurant on the beach,

Avalanche.Used to live there a couples years ago and for 4/5 year..

Very happy to see all my friends in the water and get some funny ones..some straight one too to training for big days..

View from up parking "bar Basque" Avalanche

Hendaie beach, where my close friend David lives.We did a crazy running one night for 45 min that really made me tired.
I am in Ericeira now, but going back tomorrow there to surf La nord big wave contest , Belharra and some other spots after that..

Saturday, December 7, 2013

Some shots




To Mane shot to buy 

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Nazare line up

I saw this shot and i was think how hard is to catch a wave in NAzare paddling.
Most of the big waves around the world , has one perfect line up.
But Nazare as a beach break, come from everywhere and sometimes, you need to be lucky to be on the right spot.
Photo :Baleixo

surf and jiujitsu

Friday, November 8, 2013

Nazare sur

Thursday, November 7, 2013

Maya s has balls?!

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Costa da morte at Carve mag

Portuguese tv SIC

Big report form the big monday.
Most of the interviews i was doing all the logistic after surf(jetski out, boards on the roof,..)
I am stoked to get one good one that day, but more stoked to surf another day smaller and get many barrels.

Monday, November 4, 2013

paddle day Nazare video

I still need to catch my under the lip one..hope i will do this to myself this winter!
Amazing drop from Cotty!!!
Garret bomb!

Nazare barrel session by

Mully from friends

Nice vibe from that crew over there!
I wish i could made it, but ticket was to expencive for my budgets right now.
Hope a new sponsor will come soon and i can be where the big waves are soon!

Sunday, November 3, 2013

Nazare Disneyworld day

Barrels everywhere...Thanks Garret to tow me , Zon Crew, locals and Celeste.
photos: Antonio Carreira

Wednesday, October 30, 2013

French web

Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Nazare xxl session

Hard to talk about sizes and what ever..
My story is :
I woke up going to Nazare , cause swell should rise during last sunday 27, but in the end, only a few sets came trought solid and i did not paddle for it..shame!!
Next day i went dark time there.woke up at 4:20 am, drove from ericeira where i live to Nazare with Brazilian charger Silvio Mancusi( who show up the day before with family and staied at home), , rederico Pires(ericeira local surfer) and a Video Maker Marcelo.
Garret was out already and Burle tema was going out..we were lat team out..
i got  a good one and said to silvio surf, cause i knew wind will change.
He got a couple, after a putted Coxa(Brazilian Surfer ) in some and head back hoem.
My firt call was Galicia, My second ,one secret spot dow n south to paddle and my last call Nazare and i endee up there..

back to training at Ericeira Icon team with this two legends.
Ze Marcello and Eduardo Flexa

Monday, October 21, 2013

Pedra Branca freesurf

With Nick Von Rupp , Macedo , rebiere and friends

tow in practice

With Macedo, Pecas and Cota..
Training to get all ready for the big swells.

Friday, October 18, 2013

Em Portugues

Saving a life at Nazare

Woke up dark time as always (cause my son wake up time is 6am), and did not know what to do.
Stay home and surf the Cave or go to Nazare.
Big young crew will be charging Cave, and i was more in this way, but my friend Joao de Macedo call Nazare saying the Cave is to Dangerous(and came in my head what Shane Dorian told me when he came here,"the barrel in that wave is not worth the danger it is" and by the way, he surf when he was 18 during a free surf session when he came to compete).
We got to Nazare and was not that good.
Macedo got the barrel of the day in the morning.A solid 8 feet double up.
I saw , cause i was eating shit under that wave and amping for him.
He left to comment at the world tour contest in Peniche and i went to eat at Celeste restaurant.
Place that legend surf Garret Mcnamara goes eat.
Eat very well as always and a bit to much to go surf again.Dino Casimiro, local rep from local council was calling saying waves was on fire and i start to go back.
Jump in the car and saw this peoples calling for help on the shore, almost in front of the restaurant.
I knew was something bad already ,as people were in panic.
I got there and was 3 peoples out drowning .
i Went to the first one, one old man almost loosing conscious.
Beach there is like a skate half pipe, and to be like that waves break with all it power on the beach, and what happens is , people who is walking and not pay attention loose their feet and get wash out .
As must of them are not use to the ocean, the et scary and wit the panic they draw.
That old man and another young lady were almost on the beach and i look back and saw people already coming to help them.
So, i try to get my attention to the one outside.
And i could believe when i saw the body face down.
I jumped in the water and swim as fast as i could , only think could be to late(people can not stay more them 5 min not breathing, cause even if survive could be bad for the brain).
Got there and turn the body facing up and start to swim backward with her face already foaming a lot(after that legend Garret told me , that is a good sign).
Almost on the beach , another set came and i loose her, but she got smash to the beach and they got her.
Must of the people did not know what to do.
I knew we should turn her at the side and start to do the SPR help.
Garret arrive and start to be more strong on that and must be the one who put all those peolpes on the good way.
 she is breathing by herself and that was the happiness of my morning today!!
Nazare surf after the rescue was solid but i did some good take of but not a crazy barrel.
Photo : Pedro Mestre

Wednesday, October 16, 2013

Nazare grren day shots