First time I realise the world of surf has some weird things was long time ago.
I went to Hawaii on my late's teens. Right after I had move from Brazil to France.
I used to cruise a lot with Patrick Beven.
He is the one guy who told me to move as he is French Brazilian as I am and was already in Europe.
Days in Hawaii were always with him at his sponsor's house beach front, where we could check waves all day long as much as the sunset, whales and all the amazing things hawaian days can offer.
One day I got there really early and pipe was empty.
I got my board and paddle straight to the peak.
Paul Patterson was the only guy at the line up with me and this beautiful 10 feet set came trough.
I was so stoked to see a perfect wave come in my way that I start to smile.
Next thing, crazy wipeout.
Should paddle way before and way stronger.
Touch the bottom on my stands, but the wave sucked me over the falls.
Hit the face first one the reef.
Like a punch.
Happy did not lost conscious.
Got the surface spray blood everywhere.
Run to Patrick's house who were recording ( we try to find the video but it's lost).
He was keep recording and checking and not saying nothing.
World champ Phil Razman, showed up and said I should go to the hospital.
Left his insurance card with me saying we both had big nose and I had just broke mine so should go through.
Well, really did.
Back to house Patrick laught saying my girls Hawaiian season was done.
After I start to used helmet and was I realised how bad world surf media's kills you using helmet. Not passing photos any where.
I start to write this cause nowadays top WSL surfer Owen Wright is on a bad position to come back to his top surf level after touch the reef at Pipe.
Why is not a normal thing use the helmet like skater or other sport ?
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