Former elite world tour surfer ( WSL),
2 x european pro champ (WSL),
Nazaré tow challenge surfer
Writer : SurfGraduation system, Surfista Carioca
co-Owner Cabo surf company
Event organizer : Coruña Big Waves , Illa Pancha Challenge
Icon Brazilian jiu-jitsu black-belt
husband - father
Tuesday, June 21, 2016
I Was in Bali for a week.
My partner and friend Sevastusn Steudtner invite me to go there so we could surf together and I could help him to progress his surf.
Seb is on my eyes, the best tow surfer in the world,
Most of surfers get really unstable on a tow board when ocean is not clean , giant ( 60 feet plus) and condition is challenging .
He is solid.
I can put him on any wave that I know he will deal with it.
On a opposite hand he did not grew up on the ocean. Start surf late and windsurfing ( I believe he is solid when he go fast cause that). Now, that he is surfing more and more , most of my tips are helping for generate speed using whole body.
Uluwatu was our playground,
We both got fit paddling and both stoked of a break from Europe.
He was dealing with sponsor and TV, I was with my surfschool and my kids.
Straight from there I flew to Dublin on this crazy Dempasar( Bali), Jakarta, Abudhabi,Dublin.
Arriving in Dublin Henning Erlandsen was already there .
always getting every thing ready for the big Nixon crew arrive.
Straight roads . Made our happiness and scariness ..
Dublin to Spanish point, where back in the days the biggest navy assault of history from Spain on England end up on a disaster , when a storm destroyed the great amount of boat on this coast of Clare, Lahinch, Ireland.
Waves were flat and we all decided to see Fergal's Smith farm.
On the beginning I though was a farm where you go grown your food and go back home.
Not that one.
Fergal is on a new ( old) way to live.
He cultivated his on biological food, he lived on a tend and a bunch of friends start to follow him.
A way full of love,
Living from the earth to the earth.
Made think a lot of what you need to be happy in life and what your partner ( wife , girlfriend...) thinks of that way of life.
We all helped him for many hours and he was stoked to see work from many days ( he doesn't have any machine at the farm), be made in a few ours.
An amazing lunch with all organic products was a high light of the day,
Salad, soup, cakes...
Second day waves still flat and a big part of the crew went for a sailing at the famous clif of Moher.
2 guys stay to swim with Dusty, the local Dolphin who is always around the harbor.
I stay hanging with Henning( nixon Europe ex owner who brought the brand to Europe).
Have a bad ear infection from Bsli that was killing me.
Same day we got the 3 hours road to Dingle.
Ferry on the way and amazing landscapes.
Next day afternoon we move from Dingle to a local city close to the spot Cean Sibeal, where must of the latest Star Wars was made and even the last scene where she found Luke Skywalker on a empty island.
Same we could see from the water surfing.
This little beach break full of wedges made our happiness and the vibe hype grew.
Every one killing it!
Need to tell that I was a bit more shocked from what this ozzy call Chippa Wilson could do it on those 2/3 feet waves.
Best adjective must be from Kepa Acero to him "this guy is a bailarino.
A ginastic acrobatic"
He really was doing things that I even Did not know the name and after ask him many times I only get " party trick".
We did a lot of road together and both talking how good was those old Billabong videos ( Bunyip dream as we were listening Chippa's song of it) or even Taylor Steele decade of videos.
Back to Dublin, we all ate at this nice tailand restaurant called Opium.
Bar and disco on the same place.
Many went to party hard .
Prize ceremony next day.
Chippa won, off course .
Many went to bed and many back to party.
I did a little cruise with my friend Maria at Temples.
Back to Galicia , to Coruña.
Will start a working summer teaching what I love, surf.
The only thing we are sure for our future is the death. And when will come our only happiness will be watch the past and make sure we did love enough. Not only the love to other person, but love on the daily life. The trust good things happens all the time and you have the sensibility to feel it.
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