Wednesday, January 11, 2017

The new prince of Portugal

Frederico Morais is the new up coming surfer of Europe and more , from Portugal.
After many years without Tiago Pires on the top game.
Now is thr turn of this kid.
Behind him a strong brand ( Billabong) and a fromer top surfer as a coach, Richard Marsh.
I ask some thing about for Richard right after his qalification.
nds on Facebook
Lives in Anglet
Hey mate! Congratulation for the qualification of Kikas!!! Could you answer me one queston? i would like to post something and your job is really important cause is what i work on it in Galicia and is really good father know that! Just one question in fact, cause when you just start to work with kikas you guys smash his first Hawaian season. one year i did really follow and this one was almost a noqualification and you guys went to Hawaii on a mission. could you just have one tip on how deal with this pression? thanks a lot! Hope family is good good good! my kids are all time! Merci Eric
hi eric. hope your well its not about the one event or even a season it's more about over all improvements 1/ areas that are lacking and need work 2/ improving the already solid areas. this helps you tp high light events/condition that suit your surfer. we knew fred's surfing is suited to pushy waves so we had to focus on that point while improving the rest.. cheers dog.
Haha i always says that to the kids. Keep solid what you have . And let's work the rest. Cheers bro Thanks

Sunday, January 8, 2017

Spirman surfing

I was on my kids birthday december 17 th and my partnaire Sebastian Steudtner start to say waves will be big.
I dress up on my kids birthday on spiderman and he was all stocked.
Had the dress on my car and end up bring outside .
Got a couple swaves with the dress and now my kid has a poster of spiderman surfing on his roon.
Could be a more happier father.


Thursday, November 10, 2016

Thursday, November 3, 2016

Nazaré. Last big swell. Monday november ´16

Saw this nice west swell coming to Europe and knew will be a good one.
With that direction my first choice was Ireland.
Right the day I was going to go, everything ready with friends, video makers, surfer. The local federation call ON a contests and I needed to stay.
My students won under 12,under 18 and I won master and second on open division.
Found a new spot very similar to beach breaks at France.
  Contest finished 19 and Seb Studtner ask if I want to come down and work driving the sky.
5 hours down.
Got there 2 am.
6:45 first waves check.
8 I put him on this beauty.
One petty crazy double up right on first peak, by the rocks.
All day in the water and my views from the jet were :
Tom Lowe going for this one. That I even scream him to go.
Andrew Cotton chasing rights with Garret McNamara placing him right on the spot and with his amazing calling for waves.
Alex Botelho' s barriling right behind him.
And Jamie Mitchell right.
Drove back to Galicia cause have more work coaching to do.
Petty much keen to surf some next time.
With a rest before he he
Did not see Lucas Chumbo show.
But he killed it!
pics are:
Seb Studtner,
Alex Botelho and Brazilian rapper friend of mine Gabriel ö pensador¨. that showed up and had a taste of it

Wednesday, October 19, 2016

Ferrol

One of the best option leaving in Galicia for northeast wind is Ferrol.
cross off shore and must of the beacheas hits lots of swell.





Monday, September 19, 2016

Friday, September 16, 2016

Time to chenage the judges

I just checked all heats that everyone was talking about.
Start with wilko and Bred.
My point of view,
Tuff to judge with a bit more impressive turns for Bred, cause new school.
Gabriel vs Tanner was easy.
And the WSL just made a system that judges are against the wall .
All pro surfers that know about surf are on surveillance .
Ross Willians. BArton Linch.. many that knows about judgement more than the judges.
I think they should listen those pro surfers when they are in doubt.
Gab best waves was clear the best wave of the heat.
Maybe time to change all the judges and invite ex pro surfers to judge.

Wednesday, August 24, 2016

Gabriel ¨O Pensador¨ fan dedication



Last year when I had open the surfschool , I used to go a lot by the coast of Arteixo ( where the base is, Sabon), to train with my kids.
Many surfs by that area.
One of those days at Repibelo, I did one fun session on low tide behind the rocks at the left side of the beach ( ).
After the surf I met this red hair guy with a big smile.
He came by ask me what I was doing there , behind the rocks on such s big wave ( 4 feet hehe. This is for laughing Carlos).
He is been helping me on many things.
Made my logo( here on pic below),


and we in a project for Galicia. 
Last week when singer and brazilian famous rapper , Gabriel " o pensador", came to Galicia,many persons start to write and wanted to meet him.
Carlos wading of those.
He deal to have a time leaving his wife at home with some personal problems and came to Repibelo ( Gabriel o pensador instagram at ¨la Cueva¨
After tell how Fabriel s music change his life, gabriel offered Goma music at his concert.

Wednesday, August 17, 2016

Aguarium Finisterrae surf

Story behind a wave sometimes is simple.
Winter time at A Coruña.
Was cruising with my kids at the Aguarium Finisterrea and one of the gallery is right in front of the wave.
That one perspective is really gnarly as you only see rocks.
I wasn't really sure how far from the rocks were bit looks ridable .
Think that will not be a wave that I will go surf often.
If that one is good, many others might be way better.
The objective is make an event .
As the wave breaks in front of the Aguarium, by Hercules tower and ocean Coruña walk way front.
Could attack a big crow to watch the exhibition.
I am on it!
How will come thought! 
Big thanks to Sebastian Steudtner to come up from Nazare with his gear to have some fun.
Tanaka and his tnkvision company who is doing a great job on air and land.

Spanish tv interview:
http://www.vtelevision.es/informativosv/2016/08/18/0031_5087374814001.htm

Sunday, August 7, 2016

How good is your coach?

How good is your surfing coach?
I've been teaching for 1 year now.
Many will say , one year doesn't give you that much experience .
But what about my ocean experience back up?
This photo of my student here in front of my school at Sabon beach Arteixo, show a bit what I want to explain.
High tide ..
Not many option and both first day.
Saw this wave and on my way there I was the ting to put myself in their position.
Saw i decrypted every little detail of how the wave break it..
What to to in the end to don't hit the rocks..
Why there and not by the beach ( wind was more calm and the bottom of the wave more clean. Driving the soft board without change direction as the other places).
Will be posting soon my way to stand up on the board and why,


Sunday, July 31, 2016

Luis Diaz hard work pays off

Was at the Coruña contest couples weeks ago and many of my old friends were there.
One of than Julian Coelho used to live a bit in my house at Lanzarote and with my neighbour Juan ël moro¨.
We talked  alot caus ehe does many training with kids at Gran Canaria.
Took him to my house as him and another kid was needing a hand.
We did a training at my academy.
Julian showing all his knowledge with many differents excersises for progress your surf.
Most of than designed by him for reentrys and airs.
We did some heats with his kid and my student Juan Fernadez.
SHared some competition tip.
Following contest his main kid Luis Diaz got on erunner up at the Junior´s at Sopelana and now crowed the us open JUnior.
A contest the names like Rob Machado and Kelly Slater won back in the days.
Only one way to follow now.. the wqs tour and keep charging as he does at giant slabs .
Good job bros! 

Monday, July 18, 2016

Spanish champ

My focus is not competition for a while now.
But it is so rad when you decided to do something that you not doing for a while .
You out of your confort Zone.
And when things go wrong it is normal.. you not ready for that.. but it is always nice when things goes good.
I was the whole contest not even watching the ocean, cause my kids were all amping on a kids zone behind the contest area.
Really big thanks to Lola, that i met at the kids park and right before the final she showed up with many toyes that made my little one more easy..
My big one was alredy with her kid playing.
Really cool family as a the father is a windsurfer..
old kid a really good surfer and the cruise around on a camp van.
Surfing best beaches..
I did the wqs at Coruña right after that but wasn´t the same good vibe.
Waves were really bad and that really makes me feel like good waves is what makes surfers happier.

NIXON
RVCA
ROB Vaughan Surfboards



Thanks to Prado surd escola boys for the good vibe.
You can watch here at this clip:





https://vimeo.com/174558984

Sunday, July 3, 2016

Interview Surferrule.com



http://www.surferrule.com/surfista-olas-gigantes-cuando-surf-supera-la-ficcion/

Tuesday, June 21, 2016

#NixonSurfChallenge

 I Was in Bali for a week.
 My partner and friend Sevastusn Steudtner invite me to go there so we could surf together and I could help him to progress his surf.
 Seb is on my eyes, the best tow surfer in the world,
Most of surfers get really unstable on a tow board when ocean is not clean , giant ( 60 feet plus) and condition is challenging .
 He is solid.
 I can put him on any wave that I know he will deal with it.
 On a opposite hand he did not grew up on the ocean. Start surf late and windsurfing ( I believe he is solid when he go fast cause that). Now, that he is surfing more and more , most of my tips are helping for generate speed using whole body.
 Uluwatu was our playground,
 We both got fit paddling and both stoked of a break from Europe.
 He was dealing with sponsor and TV, I was with my surfschool and my kids.
 Straight from there I flew to Dublin on this crazy Dempasar( Bali), Jakarta, Abudhabi,Dublin.
 Arriving in Dublin Henning Erlandsen was already there .

 always getting every thing ready for the big Nixon crew arrive.
Straight roads . Made our happiness and scariness ..
 Dublin to Spanish point, where back in the days the biggest navy assault of history from Spain on England end up on a disaster , when a storm destroyed the great amount of boat on this coast of Clare, Lahinch, Ireland.
 Waves were flat and we all decided to see Fergal's Smith farm. 
 On the beginning I though was a farm where you go grown your food and go back home.
 Not that one.
 Fergal is on a new ( old) way to live.
 He cultivated his on biological food, he lived on a tend and a bunch of friends start to follow him.
 A way full of love,
 Living from the earth to the earth.
Made think a lot of what you need to be happy in life and what your partner ( wife , girlfriend...) thinks of that way of life.
 We all helped him for many hours and he was stoked to see work from many days ( he doesn't have any machine at the farm), be made in a few ours.
 An amazing lunch with all organic products was a high light of the day,
 Salad, soup, cakes... 
 Second day waves still flat and a big part of the crew went for a sailing at the famous clif of Moher.
 2 guys stay to swim with Dusty, the local Dolphin who is always around the harbor.
 I stay hanging with Henning( nixon Europe ex owner who brought the brand to Europe).
 Have a bad ear infection from Bsli that was killing me.
 Same day we got the 3 hours road to Dingle. 
 Ferry on the way and amazing landscapes.
 Next day afternoon we move from Dingle to a local city close to the spot Cean Sibeal, where must of the latest Star Wars was made and even the last scene where she found Luke Skywalker on a empty island.
 Same we could see from the water surfing.
This little beach break full of wedges made our happiness and the vibe hype grew.
 Every one killing it!
 Need to tell that I was a bit more shocked from what this ozzy call Chippa Wilson could do it on those 2/3 feet waves.
 Best adjective must be from Kepa Acero to him "this guy is a bailarino.
 A ginastic acrobatic"
 He really was doing things that I even Did not know the name and after ask him many times I only get " party trick".
 We did a lot of road together and both talking how good was those old Billabong videos ( Bunyip dream as we were listening Chippa's song of it) or even Taylor Steele decade of videos.
 Back to Dublin, we all ate at this nice tailand restaurant called Opium.
 Bar and disco on the same place.
 Many went to party hard .
 Prize ceremony next day.
 Chippa won, off course .
 Many went to bed and many back to party.
 I did a little cruise with my friend Maria at Temples.
 Back to Galicia , to Coruña. 
 Will start a working summer teaching what I love, surf.

The only thing we are sure for our future is the death. And when will come our only happiness will be watch the past and make sure we did love enough. Not only the love to other person, but love on the daily life. The trust good things happens all the time and you have the sensibility to feel it.

NIXON SURF CHALLENGE 2016 | IRELAND from NIXON Europe on Vimeo.



Wednesday, June 8, 2016

Coaching pro to pro

Last week during the Nixon surf challenge i had many conversations with the group about how important is a coach.
Gony Z, Marlon Lipker, Jonathan G.. With around 30 and Charly and Marc around 25 was there..
We all was talking about Glen Hall coaching Matt Wilko and noe Bede coaching JhonJhon.
In Europe, Jeremy and Fredo Robin is the one top example, but why more and more yong surfers not looking for a ex top surfer for coaching.
someone that know same feelings of you.
Must of the time mini indecisions of a board or a tactic..but that could be a winning heat, contest or tittle.