Friday, October 5, 2012

Last day "en France"

Was some nice days here in France..
Contest is over, Kelly won again.
I though Jho-jhon won the other final ,but well Dane did the final.
Easy for Kelly.
I had some really nice barrels between semis and final and some other after.
Stoked!
Leaving to home this afternoon or tomorrow to see my family.
Many working days.Happy about that.
Webcasting on french and portuguese..interview for canal+, shots...
No always is happiness.
Laurent Pujol friend, surf and photographer(his shot)
But i think is his fault i didn' t make that one..
He is always saying to don' t grab the rails..so i got hit by the lip..





Wednesday, October 3, 2012

La GRaviere ,Hossegor pumping

II think this days is the biggest LA Graviere can hadle.10 feet with 10 feet sets.
Yesterday night was one one the biggest day i ever seen here.
Got 2 really good ones.
Just i was too short in my board and couldn' t slow down as much as i wanted.
kelly Slater even screamed for the big right i had..Not everyday you see guys like hin stoked in the water for waves and a pumping Graviere can do that.
Jhon-jhon was in the water too as Fred P, Vincent Duvignac, MAxim Hucenot, Wigoly Dantas,...
This is must of this morning shot and looks like is bigger again. so let s go surf another great session!




Crowd stoked with good surfer on good waves;

Ben Sanchis, local boy always gets his bombs;

A nice big left to me, but i didn' t make it;



Jhon-Jhon Florence always showing skill and technique..





Me on a long one..


Monday, October 1, 2012

tow-in board

I'd been working on tow boards with Rob since i get in the Billabong team early 2010..
This is just the third board as to give a real feedback and know if the board works good is hard.
As there is not many real big waves or many session to try it in different terms.
Well, we had start on a 5,8 that works really good for small slabs and beach breaks like Hossegor.
Max size of 10 feet.
So we made another 5,8 but more straight rails, more concave ant way more heavy.
Didn' t work and rob told me the concave when is too big and bump doesn' t handle it.
So this is the third one.
A bit like Garrets boards i saw at Nazaré.Normal pin and single to v botton..heavy.
Let' s try it this winter!


Thursday, September 27, 2012

Cave and fever

I've been sick the last 2 days.
Think my daughter Uma  pass me the sickness..well daddy' s life.
Woke up this morning and off shore wind and north swell.
Got to Coxos around 9:30am and saw a couple waves of local boy Miguel Fortes and Rato..
I knew Cave will be good and from Coxos saw a couple nice one.
Had call Surfportugal boss and close friend Joao Valente and he came shot some shots..
Get ready, ewetsuits..helmet..and when i got on the rocks to paddle out the best thing in surf happened..
wind changed!!


Went back to Coxos.couples waves..Crazy Left couples better waves but worst wind and left really sad after saw a perfect Cave and don' t surf..
Well..
Fever is ok..this is the only good think of the day!
Nothing better than surf to make you feel better!

335*

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

RTP2 and RTPI open Portuguese tv interview

Sorry every one who doesn' t speak portuguese.
This is a interview for surftotal program at portuguese national tv last weekend(http://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/RTP2).
the link is from what happen on the tv.
minute 11:44.

https://vimeo.com/50126972#

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Nazaré small kind

Eric...

Eric

Luciano..

Eric

Eric


Luciano

Alex

Friday, September 21, 2012

New home at São Julião, Portugal

Now i am thinking what to write from my last 2 days i understand how many things i did..
I am tired,hahah
Came from Caminha, north of Portugal tuesday night.
Got my new house keys from the old owner and lovely lady Filipa.
Didn' t have time to surf and just went to see Coxos and say hi to my friends.
Woke up 4 am cause i couldn' t sleep with my wife's voice in my head telling me that i need conect water, power, clean up ..
And more than that the forecast was good for Cave.
The most strong slab around and for sure always the best option to go.
Got at the car parking of Cave 7am..
Alex Botelho, Joao Macedo and Antonio Silva read and sad as me..cause was shit,hahah
Went to fix water and power..
After a hour lost or more on that little surf at "Bico"the fisrt peak of Coxos with Alex.
Nothing special except one nice wypeout on the best wave came to him..
Left the water and said hi to the judging crew of ASP that was hanging checking the waves .
One of them start to yell..
_Did you see that?That guy just went straight to the rocks!
I start to run and when i got there one friend of my from Italy was getting smahed on the rocks.
I wa s2 feet from him but could jump cause solid 6 feet white water was jsut to power to get him and go up the rocks..
After 20 min one of the waves send him to a more safer place but he could do nothing with one broken arm.
We went ther eand could get him.
One of the craziest thing i ever see and i am really happy he still here with us!!
God does exist!
Went back home, surf again at Sao Juliao where my new house is.
Woke up again 5 to go up to Nazaré.
Had some funny waves..
Washed the Pwc and now buying meat for a barbecue and to all my firend unload all the big truck that is coming with the family!!!
view from new house;

the front beach break at same day;

Ze friend, local and owner of surfboard factory;


Sao juliao same day...

....

Alex Botelho..came late afternoon.
Photos : Pedro Mestre local boy form Sao JUliao

Monday, September 17, 2012

Basurero, Cabo Silleiro, Galiza

One of the best wave sfor me around south of Galicia.
Clean walls and always empty.
Think i  had 15 surf out there and 10 by myself.
This day i got there on the high tide..
And a cried cause on the low should had some sick barrels!!
Photos Angel fotosplino


Sunday, September 16, 2012

Aveiro surf Portugal.

Swell wasn' t big enough to move.
well, i though wasn' t big enough..
Had a call from my friend To Mané local photographer from Porto.
_Eric, let' s go.It' s a beautifull city and you never surf that wave.
_ok, let' s try.
As Aveiro is only 30 min south of Porto and Porto 40 min from Caminha.Here up north on the border where we are now i decide to go.
Didn' t want to go without the family and that was even better , cause there  is always something new on my daughter Uma to laugh..
We got there end of afternoon and the spot we were wondering to surf next day was pumping.
Solid 6 feet, but the only bad thing was the cross wind.
So we went to this perfect little right.
Had dinner at local boy Luis Rosas restaurant(to much food.5 different seafood like a open buffet).
Rented one appartement for 60 euros 2 bedrooms ..
Next day early wake up and perfect off shore wind.
A bit small than the day before, around 5 feet, but a lot of fun.
Only 5 guys out , so peaks everywhere.
Thanks for the surfers to all locals!!





Friday, September 14, 2012

This guys may save your life!!

I was in Peru for the BWWT contest in a same hostel than other competitor.
I already talked about Frank and Will on some old post.
That was one other brother, call Marcos Montero there.
We were both think about going to Mexico.
I was a bit stuck with money less , so couldn' t move and Marco wasn' t sure about going straight or for the next swell.
I went back home to see my pregnant second child wife, little daughter Uma and for sure a bit frustrated about miss that less stop of the swell.
I jsut saw Gabriel Villaran video from all three stop of the swell and was though, yeah, that was what i was wondering to do.
well, will be more swell in the future.
Going back to Marco, he missed that one too but went for the next one and how he said : stoked i was going to the next one and could help save Aldemir Calunga's life.
The link bellow is fro ma Brazilian website.
Marco is a life gurd in Brazil land when his commanders knew what he did ,gave him a badge of Honor.
The video is from big wave rider and family blood lifeguard Greg Long.
Tell you what, i feel safer surfing by this guys.
They not only charge big waves , they are a bunch of sea guardians!

Marcos Montero, badge of honor.
http://www.cbmerj.rj.gov.br/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=2479%3Amedalha-merito-e-forca&catid=1947%3Anoticias-do-comandante

Thursday, September 13, 2012

slab Brasil.Niterói

Like every year i try to visit my family in Brasil.
 Last time i had surf this spot in the middle of Guanabara bay.The bay of Rio de Janeiro.
From where my family lives is down south or from Rio up north just crossing the long bay bridge.
I had miss first day of the swell caus ei though maybe the spot i had choose to paddle should be better.
Wrong option.

The wave does a fast double up remind me a lot the spot of Galicia.


i tried to be very low and not going with the lip on the double up.




close to where the lip breaks..



on went right and i had a good fun ridding the wave.




hope come back in a bigger day.



thanks a lot to Tony D' andrea for the shot.
for Marcelo trekinho to put e on that wave and Guillerme Herdy.Old friends from the ASP tour that keep ripping waves on Brazil and the world.