Saturday, January 12, 2013

Nazare paddle mission

Yesterday was an historic big surfing day for europe.
As last time Nathan Fletcher and Dane Gudauska had come, now is the turn of one of the best big wave riders in the world give the little push to European surfers step up!
I am on my side stoked about it!
Could not image that will being surfing there that big that fast and i can only say thanks to Shane to push us.
Sure, Tom Butler and Sebastian struder are living there now and we did try another day to paddle.
Not as big as yesterday but we were trying it!
Shane sure wants the big days really bad!
He was in contact and ask.
the must funny thing was in the morning the buoy was 4,70 m and i said was giant.
He told me after that , how come 12 feet that big?
Cause the canyon the swell direction hit and doubles or more the size!
Can wait to go back again!
thanks for coming Shane and for the tips on big boards!






Photos : Pedro  Mestre

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

interview surftotal

http://www.surftotal.com/pt/index.php/noticias/entrevistas/item/8013-eric-rebiere-entrevista-e-novo-v%C3%ADdeo

Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Ericeira surf paradise

Waves been really good at home.
Off shore and good swell direction.
And with a big swell coming for the end of the week.
Stoked!
Not much sleep at night with the kid and a lot of activity during the day.
Hope will have energy to keep going!!


Monday, January 7, 2013

Coxos firing..Inside sessio one


http://www.surfgz.com/surfing/sesions-de-surf/2711-big-surfing-day-en-oia.html

Sunday, December 30, 2012

3 things from internet : Greg Long -Jeremy Flores

If you follow the story.People was saying Garret drop him and almost kill him, this is bullshit..Greg letter to garret :
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/letter-of-the-week/a-message-from-greg-long_90432/
Long time ago i was spending my winter at HAwaii, htink was the best way a competitor should do.
Best strong waves, big powerful and a crowd of best surfer..
Jeremy knows!!
And he is there charging!

Thursday, December 27, 2012

back in the water. Oia paddle Galicia

After my baby son birth last week , i did not go i the water.
Saw post from everywhere like Cortes bank session, perfect El Quemao,..Cave Portugal and i was
frothing to go surf.
Yesterday had my first day with a window between take care the cesarian birth wife, daughter and overnight no sleep son.
Got my 10´6¨and went to Oia.
That wave is always a good fun over 12 feet.
There is only one spot to take off and if you not on that spot the double up do not let you make the drop.
So, every time you paddle into it you feel that like : do i am on right spot?
this is when you are on right spot.
Photo : Angel fotosplino
The wipeout one on that last video from there :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NH90NR3e0II&list=UUpXXOdMwqsTm2Pbbi8BIyEw&index=1

Monday, December 24, 2012

Greg Long´s wipe out at Cortes Bank



  • STATEMENT FROM GREG LONG REGARDING HIS SERIOUS WIPEOUT WHILE SURFING AT THE CORTES BANK ON 12-21-12

    Thank you to the entire community of friends, family and well-wishers for your concern, your outpouring of love, support and prayers, following the serious wipeout I experienced while surfing at the Cortes Bank on Friday, December 21st.
    I am home, following a 24 hour stay in the UCSD Hospital in San Diego for precautionary observation as a result of the near drowning experience and blunt trauma injuries I suffered from the impact of a sequence of four large waves, and a three wave hold down. I had taken off on the second wave of a four-wave set and was forced to straighten out. After enduring an extremely violent and long hold down, I barely broke the surface and was attempting to grab a breath of air, when I received the full impact of the lip from the third and largest wave of the set. All of my breath was knocked out of me. I nearly lost consciousness at this point and was again driven deep and was subjected to a furious beating. I attempted to swim to the surface as the energy of the wave began to release me, but only made a few strokes before the next wave passed overhead, pushing me back down. As this beating started to subside, I began climbing my leash, hoping to break the surface before passing out. I made it to the tail of my board while it was still submerged in the turbulent and aerated water, at which point I blacked out from CO2 saturation and lack of oxygen.
    Three rescue skis operated by D.K. Walsh, Jon Walla and Frank Quiarte were tracking me following the initial wipeout. After a fourth and smaller white water had passed, I was quickly located, floating face down along side my surfboard by D.K. Walsh. D.K. abandoned his ski, jumping in the water in order to raise my head above the surface. Jon Walla arrived on his ski, and together they pulled me onto the rescue sled. I began regaining consciousness during the ride back to the support boat we were operating from. Several other rescuers assisted getting me onboard at which point I began vomiting the small amount of water I had aspirated and a large amount of blood, which I later learned was from a combination of the blunt force trauma of impact and the rupturing of capillaries due to extreme breath holding. I was stabilized onboard the boat by the lifeguards and paramedics who were part of our safety team, and a Coast Guard helicopter was summoned to transport me back to San Diego.
    Having trained for extreme breath holding, at no point did I allow myself to panic or lose confidence that I was going to survive this incident. I do, however, fully acknowledge that I did exceed my limits of endurance, and that there will always be elements of risk and danger that are beyond my control while surfing waves of any size. Because of those elements of risk, I have always insisted on working with individuals that share my focus on training and preparation. Humbly, I express my deepest gratitude to the team of rescuers and fellow surfers who’s training and precise response contributed to saving my life.

Saturday, December 22, 2012

interview Aladin USA mag









http://issuu.com/aladdinsurfmag/docs/aladdin_issue_007_01n/85

Friday, December 21, 2012

first time Belharra ?When?

Surf Session : Les vagues étaient incontestablement grosses, mais il ne s’agissait pas pour autant d’une des plus grosses sessions là-bas. Une bonne mise en jambe néanmoins ?
Peyo Lizarazu
 : C’est probablement le plus petit Belharra qu’on a eu jusqu’ici, et encore, si on peut considérer cela « petit ». Sans ce coefficient très fort autour de 100, les vagues n’auraient pas cassé, j’en suis persuadé. C’est aussi ce qui a permis de l’attaquer à la rame. Lorsque l’on se retrouvera face à un gros Belharra, ce ne sera plus gérable à la rame. D’ailleurs je tiens à préciser que pour moi, ce furent les vraies premières vagues prises à la rame à Belharra. Lorsqu’Asier Muniain (en février 2011) avait pris des vagues avec son gun, il avait bénéficié de l’aide d’un jet-ski pour le placement et pour s’élancer. Dimanche, c’était différent, les surfers ont tout fait à la rame, du placement au take-off.


This is a piece of Peyo Lizarrazu interview on surfsession.com.
Saying : ¨ last session was the first one as Axi Munien never really paddle into it!Using pwc for placement and step off¨

Pilou du calme tried but could not ,but i am sure he will soon as he love it the paddle thing
(http://www.surfsession.com/2012/12/19/rame-et-sup-a-belharra-loeil-de-peyo/)

Thursday, December 20, 2012

last issue-Revista Baobab spain

Maybe one of the last time i did tow this winter.
A bot over it. all on paddle right now..but still a beautifull shot-http://www.facebook.com/pages/wwwrevistabaobabes/177990783583

http://www.revistabaobab.es


50 000 prints all over Spain.



Thanks Bruno for the shot

Must of the shots came form the same sessions of this video from JAvi Pocholo: 

Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Belharra Paddle from the coast

Cotty, Rebiere, Fletcher

Rebiere, Sanchis


Peyot

Monday, December 17, 2012

Belharra.France. PAddling surf

I did 18 hours driving on 2 and half days.
English Andrew Cotton came for we surf Galicia outer reef and in the last moment my boss from Billabong Adventure Francois Liets called me and said, come, right now to France.
I knew could be good cause my close friend Laurent Pujol who did surf there many times told me Nathan Fletcher and Dane Gudaska(both with a great vibration in the water and pushing the limits, thanks for coming boss.Helping Europeans to step up!), were here already.
Got in France did a little surf at Guetary(got a sick left in the session but the way back was gnarly as the channel is on the right).Night at my close friend Alex LAurel at Anglet and Belharra with Bilabong adventures and Tv Thalassa next day.
The highlights of the session for me was Sancho´s wipeout with Nathan´s take of(and i was eating that set,so my vision was amazing.big geant wave on the front!)
I wa sstoked on my take of as the wind came and was bumping.
Hope come back next time!!!



Thursday, December 13, 2012

La toxica surf at Backdoor shop Porto

La Toxica,

Exposition at 

http://www.facebook.com/backdoor01
Photos by Pedro Ferreira