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La toxica surf at Backdoor shop Porto

La Toxica,

Exposition at 

http://www.facebook.com/backdoor01

Photos by Pedro Ferreira

Nazare paddle mission one..

I left home early dark time.My plans was get the pwc and go down to NAzare.

I had call my friends, Tom Buttler, Sebastian Struder and HUgo Vau who are living at NAzare jsut for the big conditions.

They all said, waves are small don´t need the pwc.

I went down with my friend and photographer Bruno Novoa seeking the swell but a bit sad cause i did not want to leave my 9,5 month pregnant wife alone.

As i was going down i could stop to check the swell forecast 2,8 2,9 m with 14 sec and 290 293 degrees ..

that is a solid Nazare and was what i found went i got there.

The 6 feet in the morning was 15 now.

Went i arrive up on the fire house i saw a perfect A frame set wedging by the rocks.

Could not believe and straight waxed my board put the wetsuit and try to paddle out..just try cause did even get in the middle way trough the outside.

Went back all piss off of leaving my with and could not surf.

I was going to surf Coxos after call my good friend and Coxos master Miguel Fortes that said was good good down there.

I went to say bye to Tom and Seabass and they said, man, we go with the pwc and we take you to the outside.

I lef teat a soup and when i was back they were already out and Tom was killing it.

Perfect 12/15 wall and he even got a petty nice cover up..

I was watching and waiting on the beach.

Hugo Vau was first take out and seabass came after to pick me up.

i was between the 7,6 and the 10´6¨

i finished with the 10´6¨.

We got out and tide was start to get low and was like Tom perfect 3 waves.

I got 2 nothing that great and Tom split with seabass.

After a couple sets one big set came trough and Tom said to go further out.

He did have not the time to say any other word the biggest set till that pint broke 3 feet i  front of seabass and myself.

I pop up my v1(it is the old oen from last year that the wetsuit is full of rows but the engine still work)

As i looked Tom was picking seabass form the white water.

He got a broken board i was washed in after some waves to the shore.

Went back, change the capsule of the V1 and got my best wave on the second try.

Tide was too low, waves was getting to hollow and with to much sand and they start to tow.

I got 2 and left stoked.

Thanks boys!

that little black thing in the middle low is my head on the second one of the set before washed out..

Always good to eat shit and keep going.Can wait to goback there!!

2012 world tittle race, Justine Dupont

Joel Parkinson is again fighting for his world .

He lost for Micky Fanning last time there at Pipe(contest that i am been watching and enjoy every night when i get home here in my step parents house where we decided to wait for number 2 son).

he had one runner-up finish before (that that every one might don´t remember, cause was a easy world tittle win), when Andy won his second tittle couples years ago. 

Must the peoples that i know wants him a champ.Not only cause he deserver it as he did strt a new style of surf, his own style but cause sometimes we all want a different person winning(Kelly is fighting for it and i don´t know you but i like when there is a fight for the tittle but even there is a fight Kelly had won too many times) 

 As a daddy i love this 2 pics of Shane Dorian and Joel Parkinson with their kids..

Justine Dupont just wrote me saying she is been surfing big waves.She is in Hawaii now and i let her use my 9 and 10 feet surfboards over there.And i will be sure you could see her on a big day there soon.
This is her on a Irish perfect barrel.

Fisrt time paddling Oia outside peak

This is on a 10 feet 13sec days(2 days).
Both days on shore.
I can not wait for a big and clean day.
The wipeout day looks like the one showing the real juice this wave have to give.
I had checked before with my friend Alex Botelho and was perfect off shore.
The shame was  a fast down grading swell so we decided surf around that area another wave.

Oia.Galicia paddling big surf

2 days surfing the same wave.OIa.
Today i am more stoked than yesterday as i d push a bit more my limits.
It is all about you not the others.
I am 100% sure if there was some others top big wave paddlers today they will get barrels there.
Conditions was a bit hard again as wind was not perfect and i think should bit a bit bigger swell.
Why?
Cause if you do not take off behind the double up the double just spit you lip to bottom.
I know cause i did today that.
Had one sick one on the double up first wave and thought all will be just a matter of go for it but i was wrong.
Went all the way top to bottom and my body hurst now.
The vision was a bit gnarly as i was trying to stand in my board and could not see the bottom anymore.
Next thing i was flying and my 10´6¨was still in my feet.I was so scary to land on that big wood and i had try to move my body a bit on the side.
All came ok, just a bad landing on my ribs, but all good.
Hurts but nothing that in a couples days will be ok.
Yesterday was yellow swell and yellow period on fnmoc and today same going to green.
windguru saying 316 degrees and all west wind going to south..
I really believe will be some nice big paddling barrels in the place on the future!
Thanks to daniel Rodriguez from Ponte vedra who came for today second session and did a nice take off.Maybe he did could pull in, if i was not free falling in his head,hahah

Another thanks to Bruno Novoa and his girlfriend to come shot.

Viana do Castelo city surf.locals secret spot

The line up outside was a nice double up right.Not every wave was on the perfect spot and i knew after from Ricardo ,one of the oldest surfer to ride the spot that was to small and he never had surf on low tide..all wrong,,,,The paddle out was beautiful..with some nice lagoons and mussel rocks and gooseneck barnacles..

Local boy Fabiano from the local surfshop was stoked in the water as he is always is outside..

I didn´t really got barreled..some late take off into but nothing crazy..hope will be another chance soon!

All photos from Local Photographer Uriel ( http://www.facebook.com/urielsurf.photography )

Influence-Old school

When i was a little kid i remembered this day as many of the locals boys back where i used to lived came to this one guy house.
He was a completely fan of Occy.
His room had poster of him everywhere.
He had long hair and is a shame we don´t have any video from that time cause i will be stoked to compare the surf and style he did back in the days like occy.
The day i am talking about it the usually 10 guys+ was there as everyday as any small tow.
the were always moving together for surf,party,...
Th ebig moment of the morning was to watch the movie he had.
don´t remembered if was the first time to than but for me was and i could pay more attention than what i was watching to the end of the movie.
Not only me, the whole pack of crazy guys that was always doing crazy things was concentrate for once on the movie.
this is the Reunion island part, one of my favorites one.
No shark back in the days!
Ocyy, munga and Ronnie Burns surfing..
Thanks Billabong for that, thanks Rogerio and his family.
And for the pack of surfer..
Don´t think i could be a surfer without than.
Old school!!!  

Teaching tow-in

My friend Cristian Perez might be the best surfer around Vigo area.

For me!

As he always charge when wave sis hollow and we been surfing together for a while now as he is my wife´s friend from the teenager time.

I am stoked to teach him, cause i think know one know f3 better than him and i hope he can surf any other waves in Galicia soon ..

most than that the outers reefs!

Joao Neiva, another friend form Moledo will be around too and as Cristian he is the best surfer up that area for me..so a nice teaching day but for good surfers!!

Vigo for baby!

New baby is almost here..

We d move from Ericeira to Vigo to have the family support.And as i am not surfing that much i found a nice gym just down stair and putting some energy on it!

Nice swell coming and i might try a new big wave by Oia next wednesday.

Parko is on!!!

#GoParko from Billabong on Vimeo.

fast trip

Just post this shot from a perfect day surfing with Jeremy and sancho.

That day was really perfect at Canarys and as winte ris now i hope been surfing htere for a while.

3 things from internet this morning: Sunny Garcia, Sebastian Zietz La vaca surf

After a close heat, Sunny was angry but things came up cool as him and Fred p are good friends..

wining the contest and 100% for 2013 ASP tour at home in Hawaii.Good one kid!

Nice swell for this amasing big wave.Here on shot my friend Pablo Gutierrez at home at La Vaca, Santander.

Super Tubos Peniche, Local spot Ericeira photos Pedro Mestre

Eric,Super

Luciano¨Wikipedia¨Brandao,Super

Eric,Super

Eric,super

Diko,Ericeira

Eric,Ericeira

Big thanks to my neighbor and photographer Pedro Mestre
went to check all the spots from eirceira toPeniche..
Was in mind to surf Nazaré, but heard wasn´t good.
finished surfing 2 waves at Super Tubos..
Crazy close out and back to Ericeira surf on local spot in town.
The good slab in between those citys was too small..next time!

3 things from internet this morning

The world tittle race is close, and is nice to see the chance of all 3 here..

Greg Long : 

Unquestionably the greatest compliment of my life. Extremely grateful and humbled...

( Can´t say more, he already said)

Nic Von Rupp rippind for this month innersection contest:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=BW8K_P7LSqU

Alex Botelho at f3

Putted my buddy Alex Botleh on a couple sick ones..

I didn´t get any as Alex doesn´t know how to drive yet..but i will teach him soon!!

Local boy Angel was there on the land..

Best shots from Alex LAurel will be on Surfeurope..

Surfgz full shots :  

http://www.surfgz.com/surfing/sesions-de-surf/2651-sesion-de-surf-xxl-nas-rias-baixas.html